Been holding off entering this thread but here goes anyway. I shot a Carl Gustav Swedish Mauser in .308 in the DCRA 1000 yard stuff in the 1980`s, sling, aperture sights. When freshly bedded with JB Weld accuracy was competitive but the problem is, and when I started to use it I was warned about it, the narrow Mauser rear tang will torgue under recoil and eventually unbed itself by compressing the wood under the tang. There is a metal sleeve around the rear action screw that is supposed to prevent this but it didn`t seem to help. I think that an expert job of pillar bedding in a modern synthetic stock would get around this problem. These are concepts in materials and techniques that were not around in my neck of the woods 25 years ago. Hope this helps.
Mauser 98
- Thread starter X Ring Accuracy
- Start date
Soooo, how ya doing on the Mauser project?
Here's some inspiration for the Mauser project hopefully. This was built on a shoestring budget and I just upgraded to a 'new' stock. I'm a lefty, so finding a lefty thumbhole that will have enough space for a heavy barrel was impossible. I had to bribe my dad out of this one.
Ankara Mauser action, still needs to be blued after I cleaned and polished it up.
30-06, 26' barrel with 1:10 twist. Timney trigger, Osprey International 6.24x50
The last scope I had on it was a $100 Bushnell, it shot touching hole 5 shot groups at 100y and about 1' at 300y, I haven't shot it yet since I broke it down to do all the cosmetic metalwork.
They will shoot if you have a good mauser gunsmith to do it. Mostly it's a gunsmith that cares to work and be patient with the mauser, but there's a couple little tricks that are different from other actions or so I've been told.
Ankara Mauser action, still needs to be blued after I cleaned and polished it up.
30-06, 26' barrel with 1:10 twist. Timney trigger, Osprey International 6.24x50
The last scope I had on it was a $100 Bushnell, it shot touching hole 5 shot groups at 100y and about 1' at 300y, I haven't shot it yet since I broke it down to do all the cosmetic metalwork.
They will shoot if you have a good mauser gunsmith to do it. Mostly it's a gunsmith that cares to work and be patient with the mauser, but there's a couple little tricks that are different from other actions or so I've been told.
Reading the post on Lefty stocks, I have a light weight sporter stock made by Bob Jourdan. I thought it felt strange when shouldered and figured out it was for a lefty. I have since restocked the Swede. The stock is glass bed with a rubber recoil pad and for a small ring swede action, anyone have a need for this stock?
bohemR13, pm sent. its a M96 small ring swede inlet, #5 Douglas taper barrel channel.
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