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MARCH 10-50x52 vrs High Master 10-60x56?

SHall

Silver $$ Contributor
Has anyone had any real world, side by side comparison of the two? I will be using for 600 and 1000 yard benchrest competition. I have had more than one of the original 10-60x52 since it came out many years ago. I love them. I have thought about trying the new High Master 10-60x56, but don’t want to pull the trigger until I talk to someone that has compared the two. I have had a 5-50x 56 and and 8-80x56 March and did not like them any better that my original 10-60x52 even after a years of use and comparison. So wondering if the glass is better to the point you can actually tell a difference in the High Master. I dont want technical jargon and opinions on what people have read. Only real world experience, Thank You, Samuel Hall
 
The only reason to buy the 10-60x52 is if you need to make weight as it's the lightest variable high magnification scope March offer. I own 3 of the HM models and have used (not owned) the 52mm objective. IMO the glass in the HM is definitely a step up and the March HM was the only model I was interested in after upgrading from the Vortex GE.
 
I have a 10-60 HM and a 5-50x56. I haven't had either very long. So not much time behind either but here is my take between the two.

I shot my first 1000 yard f class match with the HM yesterday. Mirage was thick all day. Guy I was shooting with had a Golden Eagle. He was dropping points due to Mirage and said he was loosing his reticle in the "black blob" which was the target. The HM I kept at 40x power all day, I could easily decipher the rings and read the Mirage with no problem. Coming from a golden eagle last year, I couldn't be happier with the HM.

Now comparing my two March scopes. The High Master with my eyes is noticeably more clear and showes less mirage when mirage is thick. Has a more crisp and definined picture. It's not a huge difference but in heavy mirage or less than ideal conditions I feel like the HM is worth the upgrade.

I would say with good conditions the GE, 5-50x56, and HM are very similar as to clarity. The March scopes are definitely brighter and you can use full magnification, the GE gets dark above 45-50x. However when the conditions aren't good the March scopes stand out with the HM on top and the 10-50x56 just about in the middle between the HM and GE.
 
Has anyone had any real world, side by side comparison of the two? I will be using for 600 and 1000 yard benchrest competition. I have had more than one of the original 10-60x52 since it came out many years ago. I love them. I have thought about trying the new High Master 10-60x56, but don’t want to pull the trigger until I talk to someone that has compared the two. I have had a 5-50x 56 and and 8-80x56 March and did not like them any better that my original 10-60x52 even after a years of use and comparison. So wondering if the glass is better to the point you can actually tell a difference in the High Master. I dont want technical jargon and opinions on what people have read. Only real world experience, Thank You, Samuel Hall
Sam,
I have one March 10-60x52 and two March X 10-60x56 HM scopes. If I was to order another scope for benchrest or F-class today, it would by the March X HM.
In all fairness, I had to send my older 10-60x52 back to March for repair and they really took care of me and were up front and honest. Explained what was actually not up to par with the scope and what they fixed and why. When they sent the email letting me know the scope had shipped back to me, the also said the lenses were updated or dolled up or something. That old 10-60 is now crazy clear and spot-on every adjustment. So comparing my 10-60 to one that had not had the same treatment mine has would not be fair in my opinion.
The new March X scopes I have, are in a league by themselves. Every match I have used them at, I invariably get asked if someone can look through my scope. That is folllowed up by a conversation comparing the March X to whatever scope those shooters are using. Every time, all envolved in the conversation agree the March X is better at seeing through the mirage and clarity.

I hope this helps.

CW
 
A nice member sent me a PM to come look at this thread. I do not frequent this sub forum so I would never have seen this thread.

The prior answers are all right on point. I have never used a March 10-60X52 but I have met people who own them and they love them. My first March was a March-X 5-50X56 about 9 years ago. I used it in F-class for 7 years and I love the scope. I bought it with the MTR-2 reticle and a few years back I sent it back to Japan so they could swap the reticle for an MTR-5 as my eyesight had not improved over the years. The MTR-5 is perfect for old geezers like me.

I had a chance to compare a March-X 10-60X56 HM to a March-X 5-50X56 side by side, looking at the same target in much less than perfect conditions.

The 5-50X56 has one ED glass element in it and I discovered years ago that I could stay at 40X regardless of mirage conditions. With my prior NF 12-42X56, I had to dial down when mirage got bad. Not so with the 5-50X56.

The 10-60X56 HM has 2 Super ED glass elements, the big lenses at the objective end of the riflescope. In my comparison, I could actually tell the difference as the colors popped more in the HM than in the 5-50X56. That told me that CA was being controlled even more with the Super ED glass compared to the ED glass of the 5-50X56. It was not as dramatic as going from non ED to ED glass, but it was significant enough that I could tell the difference. If the colors pop more, that means the contrast is better and the CA is more controlled. I figured this would show in mirage conditions.

I got a March-X 10-60X56 HM with the excellent MTR-5 reticle a few years ago and after mounting it on my F-TR match rifle, I went F-classing with it. I soon discovered that I could crank the magnification to 50X and stay there all day long, year-round, in South Texas. The jump from 40X to 50X represents a 25% improvement from ED glass to Super ED glass.

I echo @stymie12000 's description and experience. Super ED glass will not make the mirage go away but the IQ of the riflescope does not degrade as quickly with Super ED as it does with ED and especially non-ED glass. When I look at the F-class target at 1000 yards in bad mirage conditions, I see the rings very well but they seem to be "electrified." I can place the dot of my MTR-5 reticle very surgically on the target and be confident of the hold (of course, if I called the wind wrong, I won't like the results but I can't blame the riflescope.). The HM shows the mirage waves as well as anything out there.

Currently, the March-X 10-60X56 HM is the only SFP riflescope on the planet with Super ED glass. March makes two fixed power scopes with Super ED glass, the March 48X52 and the March 40-60X52 EP-Zoom.

March also makes the only Super ED glassed FFP scopes on the planet: the March-FX 4.5-28X52, the 5-42X56 and the two Genesis models.

@stymie12000 really captured it well when he was saying that all scopes can perform really well in great conditions; but when the mirage hits the fan and conditions get really bad, that's when you see the difference in the glass.
 
The Temperature Anti-drift system is only in the March-X 10-60 HM and the various March-FX with the High Master lens system. The March 48X52 and the amazing March 40-60X52 EPZ have Super ED lenses, but they are not the temp anti-drift lens system. I suspect it has something to do with the fact they are fixed power, and that lens system is not required.
 
Thank you guys! All info was great and spot on! I very much appreciate it. Good thing I found out yesterday I am getting a nice tax refund this year! I know what I am going to splurge on! If ya’ll know of anyone wanting to part ways with their 10-60x56 HM in a crosshair, 1/16 dot or MTR-2 reticle let me know. Samuel Hall
 
Thank you guys! All info was great and spot on! I very much appreciate it. Good thing I found out yesterday I am getting a nice tax refund this year! I know what I am going to splurge on! If ya’ll know of anyone wanting to part ways with their 10-60x56 HM in a crosshair, 1/16 dot or MTR-2 reticle let me know. Samuel Hall
Let me add a few unsolicited thoughts here, all worth far less than what you paid for them.

I look at March scopes as something for the long run. When I bought my March-X 5-50X56 nine years ago, I had only seen a March at a few matches. It also helped that Ian Kelbly, who was the US dealer at the time, had brought a bunch of them to show at one of our matches at Bayou Rifles. After looking through them, I decided to upgrade my still new NF NXS 12-42X56 by buying the March-X 5-50X56. I knew very little (ok, virtually nothing) about March at that time, so it was a $3200 gamble. Which I never regretted.

In the Optics section here, I spend a lot of time explaining about optics, glass material, zoom ranges, and all sorts of other things. I navigate under the misapprehension that I know something about optics. I have been an avid photographer for over 50 years, which a wide panoply of discarded gear to reflect that. My photo gear is Nikon.

My experience with photography and optics was such that I have known about lens coatings since the 70s when they were all the range and differentiators, then various implementations of automation and the onset of digital. Nikon invented ED glass in the late 60s and installed it in a lot of their lenses. They invented Super ED glass later on and that found its way into their camera lenses also.

Deon was the first riflescope manufacturer to incorporate ED glass elements in their offerings about 14 years ago. For the longest time they were the only ones, then Nikon started doing that with some of their Monarchs and other lesser brands like Nightforce started copying them and other jumped on also. It was interesting to see some brands come up with terms like XD glass and make a big deal about while avoiding the exact benefits of ED glass, lower CA due to reduced dispersion.

All March scopes have ED glass except for the 24mm LPVOs where it won't benefit the IQ and of course the models with Super ED glass. No other scope manufacturer on the planet incorporated Super ED glass in their riflescopes. Just like no others incorporated ED glass 10 years ago, except for March.

So the glass in the 10-60X56 HM is light years ahead of any other scope, but let's continue with the longevity aspects of the March scopes in general and the March-X and March-FX in particular.

The tube bodies are CNC machined from a ingot of aluminum, and not just the ordinary, run of the mill 6061 or 7075 junk only fit for planes, Deon uses a special kind of expensive aluminum exceedingly well suited for riflescopes. The aluminum is not extruded or drawn, it is simply cut away to produce the full one piece body. There are no doors or traps at the control knob area. Only the three holes for the knobs.

Each scope is had assembled in Japan by a skilled optical technician using all-Japanese parts. That is something Deon is very insistent on, all parts are made in Japan; there is no China stuff in there. There are also no plastic parts, everything is metal except of course where metal is not suited, such as wiring for the illuminated reticle. The parts are all fitted by hand and fully tested throughout.

Deon uses argon to fill the tube and purge the air inside where other manufacturers used nitrogen. The reason for using argon instead of nitrogen is, again, for longevity. The argon atom is huge compared to nitrogen and is less likely to leak out over time.

The finish on the March scope is something else, in my opinion. When you will get your HM, you will be amazed at how smooth and solid it will feel. The craftsmanship is, in a word, exquisite and durable. My 5-50X56 still looks like new after 7 years of monthly competitions, a dozen state matches, a few regionals, 7 nationals and 2 worlds. It's been all over the place in countless trips. It still looks pristine.

Now, let's talk about the -X and -FX series of March scopes. The tube diameter of theses 2 series (and the Genesis also), is 34mm. You might think this is for added internal travel. Nope, it's not. The wall thickness of the X/FX series is 4mm instead of the 2mm in the 30mm bodies. The March scopes are very strong, and the X/FX series are immensely strong. I told you these puppies were built for the long run.

Everything about a March scope exudes refinement and silent strength. The knobs are wonderful and very tactile and positive. The "springs" inside are also designed for the long run and that's all I can say.

And now, let's zero down on the March-X 10-60X56 HM. I am now in my third year shooting with mine and it looks pristine, of course. When I acquired this scope, I ordered it with the exact options that I wanted after doing in-depth research. These scopes are expensive enough, I had to have the exact things I wanted in that riflescope. There are two types of reticles for the HM and that is a decision you need to make because the types are not interchangeable. The types are wired or etched reticles. The bodies of the scope are different depending on the reticle type. The bodies are about a quarter inch longer between the knobs and the eyepiece for the etched reticle models. This means if you get an etched reticle like an MTR-2 or my favorite, the MTR-5, you cannot get it changed later on to a wired reticle like the crosshair or the center dot. The other was around doesn't work either. You cannot get a wired reticle swapped for an etched reticle.

I prefer an etched reticle and my 5-50X56 started life with an MTR-2 but since I had it so long, my eyes got worse as I aged and I had it swapped for an MTR-5. Some people absolutely love the wired centered dot reticle and you cannot pry the scope out of their hands. It's you choice.

If you choose the etched reticle, you can decide if you want illumination or not. I have illumination in my 2 March-X and I have never used it. I even pulled the battery from the scopes.

I do use the big wheel on the side focus knob as I have arthritis in my left hand and it hurts to try to play with a focus knob. The big wheel makes it so much easier and provides for fine granular control. Your scope will come with a sunshade, which I leave on permanently, a zoom lever, which I have on because people love to look through my scope. I also added the big side focus wheel with the center adapter, and the rear eyepiece extension.

I understand your motivation in looking for a pre-owned HM and that you would settle for whichever reticle was in it. Always a good idea to save money.

But a March scope is like an heirloom; you will have it for a long time so get it exactly as you want it to be. Order the exact model with the options you want and in 2 months or so, this amazing piece of optical rifle guidance will show up at your door and when you first gaze at it and touch it, you will realize why it was worth the cost and the wait.

We can talk about how to mount it later on; suffice it to say that I want to get all the benefit of the superb IQ of the HM and mine is set so that it is near optical center at 1000 yards.
 
I continue to be impressed by the High Master optics I own.

We're lucky to have these choices, optics is such a personal piece of gear for the competitor, it's probably best though to get a look through something, if you can at all manage before taking the financial plunge. Most competitors I know have no issue, offering a peek through or getting a feel for a stock/action/trigger/rest/bag/spotter they might see on the line, with just a polite/timed request between matches.

@Erik Cortina , @dskogman , @johnnyi , @Rope2horns and many others did just that for me when I was getting started and searching for my own personal recipe that felt like it was going to work best for me.
 
After the above discussion, I received a PM from someone who wanted to know how I had mounted my March-X 10-60X56 HM to my rifle. In an earlier post on this thread, I had made allusion to the fact I would come back and explain here.

So, I am copying the answer I gave to the PM yesterday.

My phenomenal March-X 10-60X56 HM sits on top of my F-TR match rifle, which is built around a Kelbly Panda F-Class action. My action is old and has a 20MOA dovetail on it. I added the Kelbly Picatinny rail and then I use the Burris Signature XTR Tall rings with the inserts. I use a combination of inserts to have my scope a few MOAs above mechanical zero at 1000 yards because I want the best IQ from the scope at 1000 yards. I didn't pay all that money to stick the internal tube at the end of its travel and I only shoot at 1000 yards anyway. The only other distance at which I sometimes compete with this rig is 600 yards and I can reach that easily with 2 turns of the dial.

When I do load development at 100 yards, I use a 48-inch-tall target and I use a marker to put a series of X at the bottom and draw vertical lines from each X. I add inch measurements after 26 inches, in 1-inch increments up to about 36 inches. I set up the target with the bottom near the ground and the 33-inch sits about where a 100 yard zero would be. I aim for the bottom X at 50X and let fly. The groups accumulate nicely at the proper elevation and the bullets do not leave the short local range where I develop my loads.

The 34mm Burris XTR rings are very strong, made in the USA and do not mar the exquisite surface of the March scope.
 
Ya’ll have convinced me to purchase! Excellent discussions here. Thank you all for your time!
I cannot find a new one exactly like I want. Who is the best and least expensive to order a new one from? Samuel Hall
 

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