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Mandrels or gauge pins?

TrxR

What do you all like or prefer ? A mandrel set from 21st century or a gauge pin die from Porters precision? If using gauge pins how are you chamfering the end if you dont have a lathe?

Thanks
 
I use both 21st Century mandrels and Porter Precision gauge pins. Porter's pins come with a chamfer already on one end of the pin. I tend to use a mandrel when the neck needs a lot of expansion as is the case with virgin brass. Both work fine.
 
Im currently using a PMA madrel to neck up my 30br brass but was debating on whether to use gage pins or a mandrel for my final sizing step after full length sizing . Im currently using a Redding non bushing full length die.

im wondering if a Rcbs bullet puller that i already have would work to hold the gage pins to test to see if i like the gage pin setup?
 
TrxR said:
Im currently using a PMA madrel to neck up my 30br brass but was debating on whether to use gage pins or a mandrel for my final sizing step after full length sizing . Im currently using a Redding non bushing full length die.

im wondering if a Rcbs bullet puller that i already have would work to hold the gage pins to test to see if i like the gage pin setup?
Click to expand...
I use gage pins. Grind the end chamfer for the lead of your liking.
The RCBS collet bullet puller works very well for me.
pins can be ordered in sizes to .0005” half thousands
very reasonably from McMaster Carr
 
Gauge pins in a Hornady bullet puller mounted in a K&M window riser.
i ground and polished a generous taper on the pins. Easy and cheap. Just like me.
 
I use a Porter die and pin gauges. I get the pins from Kenny Porter as well. I like them because you can get them in just about any size you want, .0005 increments.

PopCharlie
 
Easy way to chamfer the end of a pin gauge is chuck it in a hand held drill while turning it against a bench grinder. Polish chamfer in steps with wet/dry sandpaper to desired level of polish.
 
I have used gauge pins for many years. I like the price verses others. I also like the Fact you can get almost any size you want. The thing I liked the most was they were easier to size a case with over all the company ones I have. Maybe because they have a ground finish. It was enough that I could easily notice the difference with a reloading press. They seem to expand like hot steel in butter. Matt
 
What size pins would you start at for a 308 or 30br? I was thinking getting some ranging from .3040 to .3080 in increments of .0005" do you al use the plus or minus version or both?

Im looking for a good canadian source of them now . the one source I found wants 4.94 Canadian a piece for Vermont brand but has a minimum order of 70.00
 
TrxR said:
What size pins would you start at for a 308 or 30br? I was thinking getting some ranging from .3040 to .3080 in increments of .0005" do you al use the plus or minus version or both?

Im looking for a good canadian source of them now . the one source I found wants 4.94 Canadian a piece for Vermont brand but has a minimum order of 70.00
Click to expand...
If you find a Canadian source could you please post as I too would like to purchase some. TKS
 
I use the 21st Century mandrels, for several reasons. Yes, they are more expensive than pin gauge sets. However, I don't want to buy a pin gauge set and then have to grind and polish every single one of them, just to get an appropriate chamfer/bevel. IMO the chamfer/bevel at the end of most of the pin gauge sets I have seen is too abrupt...they may work, but I much prefer the less abrupt chamfer/bevel that comes on the 21st Century mandrels. In other words, I'm paying 21st Century to make them the way I want, so I don't have to do anything further to them once they arrive other than use them as intended. The second reason is the die holders. You can use either the die directly from 21st Century, or the Gen II die body from Sinclair, which I think 21st Century originally made for them. There are no tricks or special considerations to using either one. Drop the mandrel in, tighten the lid, screw it into the press, and Bob's your Uncle, as Mr. Bramley might say. Finally, the 21st Century mandrels are sold in .0005" increments, individually, or as caliber sets, so one has a lot of choices in how they might wish to buy their mandrels and/or put together a working set. They are purpose-built tools for a specific job, well-made, and they really work well.

In response to TrxR's post above, I would suggest for .308 Win and .30BR to start with a minimum of a 0.3065" mandrel. I have a set ranging from .3060" to .3115" in .005 increments. Most never get used at all. When a .3065" mandrel is used to open up a neck that has been sized ever so slightly smaller initially via a bushing die, it will give almost exactly .002" neck tension (interference fit) due to ~.0005" inward brass spring-back when the mandrel is withdrawn from the neck. You might also consider a much larger mandrel for removing flat spots or neck dings. I use the .3115" mandrel for that, but a .3110" mandrel works almost as well. Those two diameters take care of better than 95% of my needs in .30 cal. There is really no need to have mandrels under .3060" unless you plan on running much higher neck tension values (i.e. .004" to .005" or more). However, if you do, you can always add them to the set at any time.
 
I prefer the 21st Century mandrels which are coated. I started with the standard steel and decided very early on that the nitride was the ticket.
 
Tokay444 said:
I prefer the 21st Century mandrels which are coated. I started with the standard steel and decided very early on that the nitride was the ticket.
Click to expand...
Their Caliber specific one that are offered in .0005" increments aren't coated if I remember right. I would go that way but at 21 dollars a piece they are pricey compared to a 4 dollar gage pin.
 
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