Loving Arrow Wood Finish

[ebb]

I tried to buy some arrow wood finish a few weeks ago and went on the manufacturer's website it looked to me as the only way to buy it was to use pay pal. Is there a way to purchase Arrow without using pay pal? I don't have an account and don't want to patronize them in any way if I can avoid it.

 

[Preacher]

I tried to buy some arrow wood finish a few weeks ago and went on the manufacturer's website it looked to me as the only way to buy it was to use pay pal. Is there a way to purchase Arrow without using pay pal? I don't have an account and don't want to patronize them in any way if I can avoid it.

Call him if you can, I've never had to use PP......
Orders may also be placed at 1-800-215-2644

 

[ebb]

Thanks Preacher, I think when I called the shot show was going on and he may have been there.

 

[Clous]

I finished a bowl the other day with Arrow. 2,000 grit with no polish

 

[joshb]

I finished a bowl the other day with Arrow. 2,000 grit with no polish View attachment 1320313

Beautiful work! What wood is that?

 

[Preacher]

I finished a bowl the other day with Arrow. 2,000 grit with no polish View attachment 1320313

Very nice right there, I just bought a wood lathe and plan on doing that with some cherry burl pieces I have..

 

[Clous]

Beautiful work! What wood is that?

Spalted maple.

 

[CharlieNC]

Finished! I can't get a decent pic with my phone, but the finish turned out just like I wanted with a deep hand-rubbed luster. Thanks to the suggestions, I finally figured out extremely thin finish ( only a few drops ) and rub, rub, get a drink, come back and rub more.

 

[epc308]

After nearly 40 coats, I'm at the finishing point. Besides final buffing, which I do with paper, is there a recommended procedure to achieve maximum gloss? I really like the wet look when the oil is applied, but don't expect that is permanantly possible.

Buff with paper? Interesting. What paper do you use?

 

[CharlieNC]

Buff with paper? Interesting. What paper do you use?

I used ordinary printer paper, which is very mildly abrasive. But for the final deep luster a lot of rubbing with the palm of the hand was better.

 

[epc308]

I used ordinary printer paper, which is very mildly abrasive. But for the final deep luster a lot of rubbing with the palm of the hand was better.

Thanks. I was leaning toward something like that, but I’ve thought I had things figured out before with less than stellar results. Now I ask first. I guess age has taught me something after all, lol.

 

[DGP4]

I use Renaissance wax and it is excellent, but never wax an oil-based finish until it has dried for at least a month. Even if you don't think it is still drying it is! The only finishes you can wax immediately after they dry is shellac and lacquer.

 

[Cigarcop]

I used ordinary printer paper, which is very mildly abrasive. But for the final deep luster a lot of rubbing with the palm of the hand was better.

I’ve only ever used my palm…… def wears on you!

 

[CharlieNC]

I’ve only ever used my palm…… def wears on you!

It's amazing how much you can rub a few drops of oil!

 

[Adam in WI]

I thought I would add this to the thread. I recently stripped the factory finish from my Ruger No 1. While lacking much figure it has a good deal of "chatoyance" (tiger striping, had to look it up), I didn't much care for the orangish tinge or the eggshell texture to the finish. Thanks to @pdhntr for the soak tip, it made progress come on much quicker than just wet sanding in light coats. Also thanks to @CharlieNC for the printer paper trick, that really made things start to glow! I posted this side by side picture I made of before and after. I'm sorry my camera cannot really catch what this process has done for the stock. It has a darker tone that has "shine" without looking "glossy", if that makes any sense. While it can't directly compete with the Super Grade next to it, at least it can hold it's head high...

 

[CharlieNC]

Finished! I can't get a decent pic with my phone, but the finish turned out just like I wanted with a deep hand-rubbed luster. Thanks to the suggestions, I finally figured out extremely thin finish ( only a few drops ) and rub, rub, get a drink, come back and rub more. View attachment 1320813

Every trip to the range, several folks ask about the stock! I think the warm glow gets them!

 

[epc308]

I have an inletted stock that still needs a ton of work on the exterior. Just for grins, I started in on the butt and one side of the forend with Arrow after I got my bottle. The results are everything folks have claimed. It took a lot of very thin coats to achieve a good look, and lots of nights baking in the drying box, and I learned a lot.
A year and change ago, I fit up and finished a new buttstock and forend for a 22RF Low Wall. I thought I was done with the finish work back then, but a few coats of Arrow over what was already there made a significant difference in the look.
I bought a set of grip panels at Tulsa for my M14 Smith made of some really nice wood that came with a few coats of tung oil. A week and a half of every other day coats of Arrow followed by baking in the drying box have given them what can only be described as a glow from within.
This is anything but a quick process. If nothing else, Arrow will teach you patience.

 

[SierraEd]

Here's some of that stuff on a old 1925 LC Smith 20 gauge I just completely redid....
Lots of coats on it, never did count them...
View attachment 1240564

That is coming out just beautiful Preacher. Thank you for sharing the photo. I just ordered some of the Arrow product and think I will start with my CMP 40X stock. The guidance has been to sand it to 600 or 800 grit. Should I use a filler before the first coat to seal some of the pores?

 

[CharlieNC]

The walnut stock I showed above is on my Ftr rifle. A new Richards Microfit laminate for my rimfire is on the way, just in time for a winter project. I see many coats of Arrow in my future.