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Looking for strong punch

Screw it!!!.
I give up. It is not moving.

I tried with a shortend punch and an automatic center punch to no avail.
I don't know anything about a HOWA 1500 action but are these a metric action? If you are trying to remove a 1.5 mm pin with a 1/16" punch, it isn't going to work very well. Also, a center punch isn't a good idea. It will swell the end of a small pin.

I don't think you need to be concerned about the ejector flying away while you are punching out the pin. The punch will hold the ejector in place. You won't need to capture the ejector until you pull the punch out.
 
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I understand that if the punch and the hammer strike are not square to each other, I will bend the punch.

I am trying to remove an ejector retention pin from a bolt and so far I have bent about three 1/16" punches.

What do you recommend as a high strength punch that may not bend as easily.

Thanks for your replies.
.
I really hate chit that makes me say, “wordy-durds!” Old fella named Decker from Alabama used to say, “Use a bigger hammer, if it breaks it needed to be replaced anyway.”
Let us know what it looks like when you’re done.
 
Starter punch like this. Has a flat end and is used to break it loose YMMV
 
I will order the punch posted by paper puncher and see how it goes.
I will use a bigger hammer. Since I have been pounding on it so many times,my concern is if I do get it out it may not go back on. In that case I will not have an ejector. Oh well...

Thank uou all for your replies. I will let you know how it goes.
 
Mr. Barrel didn't mention the make or model of the extractor pin he was struggling with. My only experience with these are 700 Rems. They are roll pins and not tapered. Are there some brands that use a tapered pin on the extractor?
If it’s a roll pin, use a roll pin punch with centering nub.

My life with roll pins went from hell to happy since I acquired my first set of roll pin punches.
 
WAG, one end of the hole is staked or otherwise made smaller, hence the one way out scenario. LIke Mr. Lambert posted, take it to a gunsmith or a GOOD machinist. It can always be drilled out. On Remingtons and others that use a roll/split pin, use a roll/split pin punch. They work better than a flat punch.
 
Thank you all for your help and advice.

Proper punch, heavier hammer and a stronger strike did the trick. Probably sitting in Kroil for some days may have helped a bit.

Side note, it is not a roll pin and does not seem to be tapered either.
 

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Bigger hammer=more energy pin moves, little hammer=battered and expanded end of pin further impeding removal.

A bench mounted arbor press (as would be used for broaching key ways) is a handy tool for moving a stubborn pin.
 

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