Looking for a bit of troubleshooting advice...

[Milo 2.0]

This goes against the laws of thermodynamics as carbon fiber is considered and insulator. It will prevent the barrel from sheading heat unless you know something your not telling.

http://science.answers.com/Q/Is_carbon_an_insulator

 

[Milo 2.0]

Did you shoot any fouling shots before you retested? I'm with 1shot, clean the barrel good and refoul, I feel we can clean a barrel at times and just aggravate things, like poking the bear.

 

[AJC]

https://www.christinedemerchant.com/carbon_characteristics_heat_conductivity.html
I am guessing that you validated that you have the diamond or other special versions that are currently being worked on. There are exceptions but in general carbon fiber is used because it prevents heat transfer. Every racer on the planet uses the material for air boxes and ducting because it does not transfer heat well.
I have a hard time believing all the advertisements with no facts or evidence. I read the site and the graphics are cool, but i did not see any information other than space age. So it is possible, i'm just not blindly believing.

 

[Milo 2.0]

https://www.christinedemerchant.com/carbon_characteristics_heat_conductivity.html
I am guessing that you validated that you have the diamond or other special versions that are currently being worked on. There are exceptions but in general carbon fiber is used because it prevents heat transfer. Every racer on the planet uses the material for air boxes and ducting because it does not transfer heat well.

http://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/proof-research-barrels.3965329/

Take it up in that train^^^^ wreck, the op was discussing accuracy issues, not the attributes of carbon fiber.

 

[KMart]

There is a "second" part to this carbon fiber wrap that also needs to be considered in the heat transfer equation. There is some type of polyester resin based or epoxy based product that holds all this stuff together and creates the bond to the barrel.

 

[MikeMcCasland]

Perhaps it's worth looking at your method of load development. As others have mentioned, bumping the charge weights up .1gr in a 6.5CM is a bit of a waste in the early stage.

It might be advisable to load in .3-.5gr increments to look for your optimal charge weight; once you've found that, start playing with seating depth. I suspect that's where you'll see the biggest gains in accuracy.

Once you've got your seating depth figured out, then you can play with in .1gr increments to find how wide your powder window is.

Erik Cortina posted a very helpful (and probably heavily viewed) thread over in the reloading section; if you sort by views it should be up near the top. It'll give you a solid methodology on how to approach load dev.

Lastly, you're likely not going to shoot sub .3" groups consistently without the proper setup either (full front rest, bag rider, fully supported rear bag etc.) Don't let the "wallet groups" that get posted online fool you; not necessarily on these forums, but on others, pictures can be incredibly misleading.

 

[Peebles24]

Yes do a OCW optimal charge weight ladder test.

 

[Bojo]

The only cases I crimp are 357,44 mag, 9mm. I do not even crimp my ar 223 rounds, I ejected a bunch of shells during the developmental stage and did not find a single one that pushed back on feeding. That crimp is gona get u into trouble especially if all your cases are not spot on for trim length.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

The reason i mentioned wind flags is because it shoots world record groups indoors but shoots 1” or more outdoors

 

[seymour fish]

The .1 MOA setup was the third in a series of 3 shot groups. Working up in .1 Gr increments. The next set with + and - 1 Gr was to confirm the finding, and was considerably different.

Last night I shot a series of three bullets, 120 Gr ELDx, 147 Gr ELD Match and a Berger VLD Target. Three rounds each, first set with Match Primers, then Bench Rest then 5.56 "Mil" primers. The results were interesting to say the least. I'll post the images when I get home.

The rifle is fired from a cradle so I can't blame myself for the variances. One session it shoots a mind numbingly tight group, the next it a .6 spread.

I'm using a Nikon X1000 Black 6-24x50 scope on a Larue Quick Disconnect mount. But I can't quite blame the scope and mount as it did turn out a .1 MOA, .144" Group at 100 yards. Figure I could not hold the rifle on the "exact" same spot at 100 yards...

I do have a Leupold Mk 4 4.5 - 12 I can mount on the rifle, but again, I'm not thinking it's the scope.

Bryan

Bryan, consider getting rid of the cradle, the crimp, and holding on to the gun like you were hunting , off sandbags.

 

[Willie]

I have never been able to jump on the carbon barrel wagon. I worked up a load for my son's carbon barrel this past summer. Monitoring barrel heat wasn't easy. The temp strip wasn't gonna work and the laser thermometer gun would not read anything consistently. Just gave up and ran the cooler pump for 10 min. and shoot 2.

The OP said he was slow shooting 50 rounds, but how slow? Heat could have been a factor, so could neck tension, but I lean towards what Dusty said. It's the most likely, I know because I still struggle with the wind, even with a BR shooter/coach. I think I'm jerking the trigger cause I'm afraid he's gonna hit me again.

 

[Bc'z]

Yes do a OCW optimal charge weight ladder test.

Once you drop the crimp this will be necessary as you've changed your neck tension/ start pressure on bullet.
Yup back to square 1.
Also take into account changing condition.
What's great 1 day maybe not the next.
As Dusty stated wind flags,even if it's just surveyor's tape stapled to target.

 

[Peebles24]

And a 20 degree change can take certaun powders out of a accuracy node. Ecspecially if your barely in it.

 

[BWDenver]

On powder measure..

I started with a Hornady scale and found it was less than consistent, so I switched to an RCBS. But when I'm working up loads, I always validate the load against a balance beam scale. I can generally get loads that will vary about + or - 4 - 5 FPS. In most cases I'm adding or subtracting 1 pellet on the final charge.

OCD, probably...

Re Seat to touch, I use the Hornady OAL tool to find the overall depth to touch the lands, and back it off .020. In past tests that's where the accuracy is the best and the closer I get to contact the more open the groups are.

I have noticed with some bullets as I slide the bullet forward, I can feel a bit of resistance, then I apply a little more pressure and the bullet moves out then stops. Which point should I use a the "touch"?

As to flags, don't use em.

OK I'm shooting at an indoor range, but it's a 100 yard indoor range... Once I find consistent loads I'll start shooting at Quantico and try my hand at 600 - 1000 yards.

As of yet I am not turning the necks of the cases, but considering it.

Thanks for the input, I do love to learn!

- Bryan

 

[JFrank]

Good point on the trigger, but I swapped it out a after the third outing with a Tinley, 2 1/2 Lb pull. The Proof barrel has about 300 rounds through it and I thought it was settled in....

The Proof Carbon wrapped barrel cut about a pound off the weight of the rifle. And after shooting 50 round, you can grab the carbon portion of the barrel - and not scorch your hand.

With my M1A and AR I prefer 2 stage Match triggers, set to 4 1/2 Lb total...

My 30-06 has a dual trigger, "set" and "fire". Unset it's 11 Lb. "Set" it's 11 Oz.

I swapped RPR firing pin with a Titanium unit fro Anarchy Outdoors.

Bryan

When did you swap that firing pin?
Before or after?