Looking for a 6br modified case
- Thread starter MOShooter
- Start date
You're gunsmith OR any machinist can make you one in less than 5 minutes!! Get a FIRED case >> DO NOT RESIZE IT << have him drill a hole in the bottom, then thread it... You may have to take a different modified case to him so he finds the proper threading>>>BUT that's it... My gunsmith does all of mine...
+1 on the split case method. I never use my Hornady kit anymore other than the gauges to measure distance to the ogive in my split case.
1. Simply take a fired brass (in that chamber)
2. Drill the primer pocket out so you can push a bullet back out after seating with a small rod.
3. Take a dremel tool with the cutting disk and make one cut the length of the neck.
4. You may need to run your brass partially into your sizer to increase the neck tension of the bullet. You want to have a firm grip on the bullet.
5. Seat a bullet very long, insert in chamber and slowly close the bolt. Bullet gets pushed back in the neck to the distance of the lands.
6. Slowly open the bolt. I use a cleanly rod to use the bullet/case/bolt back so I don't pull the bullet back out of the case (probably not necessary at all).
7. Measure distance to the lands. I do at least different 3 bullets and with replicates of each bullet until I get 3 values that are the same to the nearest 0.001".
I even purchased my own drill bit and tap for I could make my own cases for the OAL kit with none standard cases and ackleys.
Luck in your choice, Tim
1. Simply take a fired brass (in that chamber)
2. Drill the primer pocket out so you can push a bullet back out after seating with a small rod.
3. Take a dremel tool with the cutting disk and make one cut the length of the neck.
4. You may need to run your brass partially into your sizer to increase the neck tension of the bullet. You want to have a firm grip on the bullet.
5. Seat a bullet very long, insert in chamber and slowly close the bolt. Bullet gets pushed back in the neck to the distance of the lands.
6. Slowly open the bolt. I use a cleanly rod to use the bullet/case/bolt back so I don't pull the bullet back out of the case (probably not necessary at all).
7. Measure distance to the lands. I do at least different 3 bullets and with replicates of each bullet until I get 3 values that are the same to the nearest 0.001".
I even purchased my own drill bit and tap for I could make my own cases for the OAL kit with none standard cases and ackleys.
Luck in your choice, Tim
Send a couple of cases to Hornady. Think they charge $9 to use your case to run the threads into. I've had great, fast turn-around on the cases I've sent in (38-56 & 38-50).
5/16-36 tap
Made one of my own using a drill press, a couple pieces of oak drilled to grip the case and some J-B Weld.
First drilled the hole so it slipped over the end of the hornady tool. Removed the plunger and plugged the hole in the tool. Applied a generous coat of Kiwi neutral shoe polish to the threads and surrounding area.
Degreased the inside of the case head's new hole and when dry applied a coat of J-B Weld to the insided dimension. Then "screwed" onto the tool to make sure I got the epoxy on as much of the threads as possible. Used a long clamp to make sure that the case head was as square against the end of the tool as possible during curing.
End result was a modified case without out any wait or expense to speak of. As it is, I made the case a year ago (.223) and haven't seen one locally yet.
The case only has to be held in place with no real stress or load placed on it. The threads created by the epoxy do just fine.
Final note, make sure to clear any epoxy that is extruded from the case head and forms around the measuring flat on the tool. Otherwise you'll have a lot of filing to do before you will be able to unscrew the cured case/epoxy. I just used a cocktail pick and leveled the epoxy below the case head.
First drilled the hole so it slipped over the end of the hornady tool. Removed the plunger and plugged the hole in the tool. Applied a generous coat of Kiwi neutral shoe polish to the threads and surrounding area.
Degreased the inside of the case head's new hole and when dry applied a coat of J-B Weld to the insided dimension. Then "screwed" onto the tool to make sure I got the epoxy on as much of the threads as possible. Used a long clamp to make sure that the case head was as square against the end of the tool as possible during curing.
End result was a modified case without out any wait or expense to speak of. As it is, I made the case a year ago (.223) and haven't seen one locally yet.
The case only has to be held in place with no real stress or load placed on it. The threads created by the epoxy do just fine.
Final note, make sure to clear any epoxy that is extruded from the case head and forms around the measuring flat on the tool. Otherwise you'll have a lot of filing to do before you will be able to unscrew the cured case/epoxy. I just used a cocktail pick and leveled the epoxy below the case head.
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