Loctite on Scope Base & Ring Screws?

[EOD Rob]

I was merely stating why I agree with what you are doing -- using Blue Lod-Tite on bases.

As far as heating the base screws before trying to wrench them out, it has been my experience that NOT doing that can result in a screw-head getting twisted off, or a tool being bent, and especially if the yahoo before me used red Loc-Tite or similar. My torch heats the nail above the base (to glowing red) and the heat travels thru the screw and melts the Loc-Tite. Any Loc-Tite. Then the screws easily extract.

Usually I toss extracted screws to keep from having to spend the time to clean them up, but even if I need to reuse them the heat does not hurt them at all.

It is a great trick, with only the tiniest bit of risk involved. And I'm sure that a guy with "EOD" in his name is not afraid of tiny risks. But in any case, thank you for your 17 years. I only had to do one year -- as the father of a young Marine in Falusia.

My mistake!!! I apologize for my post. I misunderstood what you were trying to say. Thank you for the correction!!!

 

[Kracken McGraw]

I changed out scope bases a short while back that that had steel Weaver bases on it previously. That was 30 something years ago and I know red locttite was used. Put a little heat from blow dryer, they eased right out. Threadlocker just seemed to have balled up by the head of screw and didn’t stay on screw body threads, wasn’t impressed at all with the product.

 

[fatelvis]

I've been using this more and more:

Vibra-Tite VC-3 Threadmate

www.vibra-tite.com

 

[BCBRAD]

I use clear nail polish on base and ring screws, the screws and screw holes are sprayed with electrical cleaner first. They stay put and are removed with no difficulty .

 

[Triple BB]

Blue Loctite. A friend at a gun shop uses clear finger nail polish...

 

[KY_Windage]

I changed out scope bases a short while back that that had steel Weaver bases on it previously. That was 30 something years ago and I know red locttite was used. Put a little heat from blow dryer, they eased right out. Threadlocker just seemed to have balled up by the head of screw and didn’t stay on screw body threads, wasn’t impressed at all with the product.

If you could break it down with a hair dryer it either wasn't red, or the surface prep was lacking, or not enough Loctite was used.

Anything that is removed with "no difficulty" scares me. I WANT it to require a torch-heated nail held against it for a few minutes before it will easily extract. So a generous gob of Blue (242) following good surface prep is perfect for me.

It's not like I am taking the base off often. Some of them stay on for decades, shooting in 20-below temps one month and 100 above a couple later, and seeing a lot of rounds. The need to spend 20 minutes of my time at some unknown date in the future, and a little propane, is cheap insurance to make sure those screws never work loose.

 

[jelenko]

If you could break it down with a hair dryer it either wasn't red, or the surface prep was lacking, or not enough Loctite was used.

Anything that is removed with "no difficulty" scares me. I WANT it to require a torch-heated nail held against it for a few minutes before it will easily extract. So a generous gob of Blue (242) following good surface prep is perfect for me.

It's not like I am taking the base off often. Some of them stay on for decades, shooting in 20-below temps one month and 100 above a couple later, and seeing a lot of rounds. The need to spend 20 minutes of my time at some unknown date in the future, and a little propane, is cheap insurance to make sure those screws never work loose.

I'm still learning about loctite.

For 242, the Loctite site says screws can be removed using hand tools. Is heat actually required? Or, does 'hand tools' include a hand held propane torch/heat gun?

 

[KY_Windage]

I'm still learning about loctite.

For 242, the Loctite site says screws can be removed using hand tools. Is heat actually required? Or, does 'hand tools' include a hand held propane torch/heat gun?

For "normal"-sized screws Blue can usually be broken free with force alone (just a wrench), but with very small screws like those typically used on action bases (#6x48), with good surface prep and a gob of Blue (242) the small screws get so difficult to extract (if you do not employ enough heat to break down the 242) that you can easily strip out the head, break off the head or mess up the tool.

Some say, well, just use a small drop of 242 and you can easily extract even a small screw with your tool. Yes, that is true, but the Loctite also acts as a sealant that keeps corrosion from happening in the threads, but it works only where it covers the metal, so covering only a portion of the the threads leaves the rest susceptible water intrusion and therefore to rust. I want a completely covered screw, for that reason.

And does fingernail polish work as well to seal out water? I seriously doubt it. But of course, if you live in a dry place or never shoot in the rain, etc., then you are probably never going to get corrosion in your base screws anyway. I have just seen too many base screws with rust on them to not worry about that.

But good grief, how hard is it to grasp a rounded-point nail with a pair of vice-grips, hold it agains the screw head and heat it with a propane torch for 3-5 minutes? And that is only once every few years, whenever you decide to remove that base?

 

[jelenko]

Thanks!

 

[moondog]

My experience has been that if the base/ bases and the action are bedded then no Loctite is necessary. A torque wrench in inch/lbs has undoubtedly saved me a plethora of problems. As for Loctite on the rings? I've never found that necessary.

Not true! I bed all my bases with JB weld.
Blue lock tite on the screws torqued with dial torque wrench. Last month at a match, I couldn't hit crap, 6BR. Barrel gave up? Scope took a crap?, loose scope base, not much maybe a quater turn but wrecked my weekend in Raton. It is now on my yearly ck list.

 

[KY_Windage]

Not true! I bed all my bases with JB weld.
Blue lock tite on the screws torqued with dial torque wrench. Last month at a match, I couldn't hit crap, 6BR. Barrel gave up? Scope took a crap?, loose scope base, not much maybe a quater turn but wrecked my weekend in Raton. It is now on my yearly ck list.

How hard is it to get the JB Weld off later? I hear you about the 1/4 turn. I have had that happen on ring cap screws. That is why I try to be very careful with base screws, that you can't even check without taking the rings off.

 

[moondog]

I use release on the action. Haven't tried to get the JB weld off the scope base. I'm guessing it could be tough.

 

[KY_Windage]

I use release on the action. Haven't tried to get the JB weld off the scope base. I'm guessing it could be tough.

Okay, I'm guessing you leave the JB Weld on that base and it is forever dedicated to that particular action? Seems like a great idea.

 

[DShortt]

Not true! I bed all my bases with JB weld.
Blue lock tite on the screws torqued with dial torque wrench. Last month at a match, I couldn't hit crap, 6BR. Barrel gave up? Scope took a crap?, loose scope base, not much maybe a quater turn but wrecked my weekend in Raton. It is now on my yearly ck list.

I suppose some bedding jobs are better than others? I don't know. I DO know I personally have not encountered base screws working loose after bedding.

 

[Ackman]

Blue loctite on threads has always worked for me. But this is a good video to watch:
Type in: Youtube Picatinnny rail now available at Hank's
He makes a beautiful rail, the best I've seen. But I mention this video because at the end he tells how he mounts a rail which works perfectly with his. Changed my way of thinking.