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Loctite on Scope Base & Ring Screws?

Chase holes with tap to clean them up. spray with brake cleaner. Torque 6-48 base screws to 20 in lb, blue loctite on them. torque ring screws to 18 in lb NO loctite on them. usually soak ring screws in acetone to clean them before installing.
 
If there is a need to use loctite, the problem is with the size of the fastener in the application or other anomaly.

Increase fastener size for the forces you are trying to stop.


Clean/tap the threads in the action. Apply minimal light oil or grease (I use STOS from Ponsness Warren) to the threads AND the shoulder of the fastener. Torque to specs.


I do remove the coating on the bottom of the scope rail/bases and use JB Weld to bed the scope rail/bases to the receiver. Use carnuba car wax as the release agent on the action. Regardless of brand of action or rail/bases, they are made in bulk and not off the same machines. You might be surprised of the difference in some.
 
Blue Locktite only.

Bases only - for heavier recoiling rifles. Never found it necessary with 223 to 243 rifles class rifles with torx screw mounted bases.

Never on rings.
 
Yes I use LOCTITE.
A note for Savage actions (which I have, like, and use). I'm a switch barrel guy.
Now the last hole in the action for the rail (closest to the muzzle) is a through hole.
Loctite (and others) can and will weep through the hole onto the barrel threads.
Probably no reason for me to continue.

(naturally a heat gun defeats all color Loctite. Switch barrel should not have an additional useless chore to do)
 
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I have one action that even Loctite did not keep the base screws from coming loose. JB Weld on the full length of the base solved the problem. While you should not need it on base or rings, experience on the exact components will define the requirement.
 

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