After applying lock-ease to the bore how long do you need to let it dry before you shoot thru it. After I clean my barrel I protect the bore with Butches gun oil. When I get to the range I will push a dry patch down the bore prior to shooting. Is it beneficial to run a patch of lock-ease down the bore at this time. Not quite sure how its supposed to be used.
Lock-Ease
- Thread starter TimP
- Start date
mshelton
Kroil and Ballistol are 2 of the greatest gifts to gun owners ever.
After cleaning I run a couple of dry patches thru the bore then follow with two patches of Lock Eze. The carrier evaporates almost immediately leaving the graphite to protect the bore. I then put the rifle away for the next trip to the range. By not patching it out my cold bore shot is usually right where it should be.
Judd
Gold $$ Contributor
I normally put it in right before I go shoot and not so much while being stored. What I have noticed is on my dasher the first shot has the same POI as the next where prior to using Lock-ease it would be an inch or so off. I used to never make adjustments from the first couple shots and now with using it I do.
I only put it in a clean bore so guns like the 30br that doesn't get cleaned very often I rarely use it.
I only put it in a clean bore so guns like the 30br that doesn't get cleaned very often I rarely use it.
Using lock-ease or colloidal graphite (What lock-ease is.) is simple. Do your normal cleaning regiment, (A couple of patch's of butch's, Bronze brush, couple more patch's of butch's, patch out dry.) place a small dime size amount of lock-ease on a patch and burnish it thought the bore. (Run it back and forth in short stoking fashion.) Then go out and shoot. If your using an oil you will need to clean it out before using lock-ease. I would run a wet patch of Butch's and then patch it out dry, and place a dime size pot on a patch and burnish it through. I would not use any oil unless you are planning for the barrel to be stored for long periods of time. Colloidal graphite has been used by Benchrest shooters for many years many contribute its use to Stan Buctal, and George Kelbly. Stan would use a small amount and his first shot would just be slightly off, where George used a large amount of it, and his first couple of shots would be off. Many Benchrest shooters still use lock-ease including Tony Boyer, and Thomas Speedy Gonzales. Hope this helps and good luck.
DeltaBravo
Gold $$ Contributor
After I shoot, I immediately run a couple patches of Bore Tech or Wipe Out down the bore and let it sit for a few minutes while I retrieve flags/targets/etc. When I get back, I run a nylon brush a few stroke down the bore. Then I patch the bore until "dry" and follow it up with a couple patches of Kroil/graphite for the trip home. At home the rifle may sit overnight or get cleaned immediately. After the bore is clean, and dry, I store the rifle with the Kroil mix until my next shoot. At the range, I get set up and run a couple of dry patches down the bore to clean out the Kroil mix. Then I follow with a patch saturated with Lock-EZ and then allow it to dry before shooting.
This seems to keep the fouling to a minimum during a shoot, and lets me shoot about 25 rounds before needing anything major in the cleaning department. I think the Kroil helps penetrate into the metal and I've added it to some Shooter's Choice to see what would happen, but haven't come up with any solid data for or against.
Dennis
This seems to keep the fouling to a minimum during a shoot, and lets me shoot about 25 rounds before needing anything major in the cleaning department. I think the Kroil helps penetrate into the metal and I've added it to some Shooter's Choice to see what would happen, but haven't come up with any solid data for or against.
Dennis
For the first fouling shot in a dry barrel, I use my own version of Lock-Ease: A mixture of wood alcohol (methanol - one of the types of DryGas or gas line anti-freeze) and hBN.
I figure the alcohol will dry and disappear faster than the mineral spirits in Lock-Ease. Seems like if there's any oil or mineral spirits left in the barrel when you shoot, the heat is going to cook off everything but the carbon. Using alcohol as a vehicle instead of mineral spirits will prevent that, or that's my theory.
I figure the alcohol will dry and disappear faster than the mineral spirits in Lock-Ease. Seems like if there's any oil or mineral spirits left in the barrel when you shoot, the heat is going to cook off everything but the carbon. Using alcohol as a vehicle instead of mineral spirits will prevent that, or that's my theory.
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