Loading .38 Special.

[Janeau]

single stage is no problem, it’s progresives where the danger is and it could be no charge or double charge. if i load pistol on a progressive i look at the charge in every case. but it only takes missing one to cause problems. the charge indicators are the only way to go in my view.

If you use a progressive with auto-indexing - it’s very hard to screw this up and end up with a double charge. But some people are very clever in make anything unsafe..

 

[DGP4]

Anyone loading on a progressive should use an RCBS lock Out Die which will prevent double charges as well as powder dispenser failure to drop conditions.

 

[lefty222]

l use a Lee Classic progressive press every would be very hard to do a double load. 4.5g Unique 158g LRN in my Marlin 1895.

 

[Infrequent Shooter]

I had a shooting experience that left a lasting impression. I was RSO running a IDPA stage when a highly regarded master shooter experienced a double charge. The timer “buzzed” and lightning fast he drew his revolver and fired 2-3 rounds before sinking to his knees. As I came around him expecting a potential heart attack, I was shocked to see him grasping a detonated revolver. The backstrap was gone and cylinder walls were blown off. Immediately started searching for blood and holes. He got luck with only a brutal concussion as the backstrap punched him in the face as it headed to orbit.

TrailBoss is the magic with great case fill and performance. Unfortunately, it’s unobtainable. Both Bullseye and Titegroup are solid alternates (clean burning with nice recoil impulse), with exception of lower case fill. You’re right to be concerned with minimal case fill (20%), especially in longer/taller cases. I settled on a process that ensures I couldn’t accidentally double charge, including no background distractions (no kids, tv, phone or YouTube).

great reason/example for shooting glasses!

 

[K22]

I’ll add another comment, I am more concerned with an inadvertent double charge than a detonation due to low fill with these super fast powders. Only takes one to ruin a real nice K38 …

This is a significant issue, and one MUST develop a fair safe method of check and double checking to prevent this from happening.

I turn all cases upside down in the loading block. As I charge with a powder measure, the charged case is turned up. After charging all cases, I visually inspect ALL filled cases to verify that there is not a double charge. I check twice, moving my eyes horizontally then vertically along the loading block.

 

[divingin]

l use a Lee Classic progressive press every would be very hard to do a double load. 4.5g Unique 158g LRN in my Marlin 1895.

Similar, but I run Hornady AP. I won't say I don't run into problems, and I won't say it's impossible, but as long as you remember that the case is charged at 75% handle throw and the shellplate is indexed forward at 25% return, it's pretty hard to double charge - you actually have to work at it.

 

[ELR LVR]

Sinve the .38 Special cartridge is rather large for the amount of powder recommended, isn't it a good idea to use a filler on top of the powder to keep the powder near the primer under all conditions!?

I think some powders are more sensitive to that than others
Someone may correct me if Im wrong here but
Think slow 2400 vs
shotgun powder
Obviously shotgun powder is not sensitive to this
Supposedly a half charge of something like 2400 with low load density can be sensitive to this
-Flashover-
and of course a low charge density of 2400 would be an accidental load mistake
(such as suddenly running low on powder in the hopper without catching it)
since if a guy was using 2400 it would nearly be filling the case under the base of the bullet or
75% full at least
Who downloads 2400 or H110 right?
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I know in my 10mm, with fast powder loads it makes a guy feel funny with how much it does NOT fill the case and Ive never experienced issues or bad accuracy. and my 10mm is always drawn from a lowered/holstered position, with powder column resting on base of bullet as opposed to base of case
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Ive read about and seen pics of revolvers blowing up but once it has been blown up how do you know if it was a half charge or an over charge?
Some people speculate the half charge blowing a pistol may be somewhat of a wives tale having so much space in the case to cushion the blow it doesnt build the pressure speculated to blow a gun.
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If anyone has surely tested this chime in here though,
I've never encountered it
Supposedly though----for bullseyes shooting at 50 and 100 yds it helps "consistency"
to have the powder at the rear of the case by raising the pistol ... then lowering it to level
as opposed to raising the gun up to level from a first lowered pistion
...That I believe
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I never had issues with 38 Special home loads
only some 44 mag loads that did not go off for some weird reason as if the powder was wet (which it wasnt) and burned so slow it barely spit the bullet out into the forcing cone.