Lee that’s a good point. I rarely work on anything but bolt-action barrels that are at least 22” long. Occasionally a friend will want that mythical 21.75” length, which just barely fits.
Little project I’ve been working on!
- Thread starter skeetlee
- Start date
I think I have you a serviceable tool I don't think you would need to modify but if so it wo only be minor adjustments p.m. your address an I will mail it to you to try.
hoz53
Gold $$ Contributor
thats a nice job you did on that tool grinding Stan and MoMax to- None of that Chinese junk.
We try our best to not do China if we can help it.
P.S. you can always tell a marine just can't tell him much..LOL
hoz53
Gold $$ Contributor
good policy
carlsbad
Lions don't lose sleep over the opinions of sheep.
Lee, I saw your post on facebook and share your concern about setup time. I have toyed with the rings that go around the bolt lugs and then ride in the steady rest and was not happy with that setup.
I have two setups I've made myself that I'm very happy with. I do a lot of bolts and I've gotten pretty good at setting up.
That said, I'm intrigued by your setup. One downfall I can see is that the setup can be significantly off center and will still not indicate any runout since it is rotating in the center of the bearing. So you have to get the bearing perfectly centered.
Someone suggested a spherical bearing but I think you'd want a solid bearing that supports both radially and thrust. A surplus wheel bearing might be good. Care to share what bearing you use?
--Jerry
I have two setups I've made myself that I'm very happy with. I do a lot of bolts and I've gotten pretty good at setting up.
That said, I'm intrigued by your setup. One downfall I can see is that the setup can be significantly off center and will still not indicate any runout since it is rotating in the center of the bearing. So you have to get the bearing perfectly centered.
Someone suggested a spherical bearing but I think you'd want a solid bearing that supports both radially and thrust. A surplus wheel bearing might be good. Care to share what bearing you use?
--Jerry
Lee thank you for the great idea!! I have been trying to figure out how to build a bearing steady rest with what I have on hand and this may be the ticket!! I have a Grizzly G4003G lathe and I also rarely used the steady but want a really accurate way to dial in bolts for trueing/bushing. Anything you would do differently? I know this is an old thread but hopefully it will catch your eye.
David
David
Agreed, I say the same thing everytime I see one of his posts. One of the Greats on this forum.
JLDAVID, let us see/know how it comes out.
Will do guys. I had an early quit yesterday so I finished the bearing inner race clearance bore then flipped the puck around and started cutting the bearing body hole. The bearing will be slightly off set to the headstock side to save some room for the spider. Once I get the bearing bore done and pressed it I can determine the final spider dimensions. My steady is smaller and thinner that Lee's so I a little more leeway. I will turn a shoulder on the spider to limit the distance I press it in so there will be no intererence detween the spider and the bearing body. More pics to come as I slowly finish the boring.
Bearing steady update. I have shifted to plan B. After a lot of thought I am going to a larger bearing with a bigger throughhole so the "shank" of my spider can be a little bigger so I can pass the bolt lugs through it and also use it to support a varmint weight, maybe light varmint contour barrel to thread for a can or brake. Plan A would only allow the bolt to be passed through from the tailstock end back to the chuck with the bearing I origonally bought. It may not be that big if a deal but I thought this would work better. New 6008-r2s bearing should be here Tuesday. I also reduced the thickness of the puck to what I consider the bare minimum. My spider can sit as close to the bearing as possible so I have more room to indicate the bolt nose in. Photos to come once I get the bearing bore done and the bearing pressed in. Do you guys think that bearing OD -.001" is a tight enough of a press fit to keep the spider running true? Any opinions are appreciated.
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This is my old setup that I used to true bolt bodies. It worked pretty good but just didn't seem rigid enough. I also didn't really have a good way to hold the bolt for working on the nose. My first thought was to true the body, press the sleeve or sleeves on, put the bolt back in this fixture and turn down the sleeves then dial the bolt in the 4 jaw to true up the nose and bush the pin hole.
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Amazon delivered my 2 pack of Timken bearings today to my suprise. I went down to the lathe and finished the bore since I had a bearing in hand to measure. Snuck up on the number, chamfered the opening, started the bearing past the bevel on the outer race, tapped it in with a small ball peen hamner till it was flush, nice and even. Finished setting it to depth with a small flat-faced chisel. Spins nice and free. I ended up a few thousandths off center but for a napkin blueprint, I am pretty happy with how it turned out.
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"Do you guys think that bearing OD -.001" is a tight enough of a press fit to keep the spider running true? Any opinions are appreciated."
FYI, I really didn't have a great way to accurately measure the ID of my bored hole. Since I had the bearing in hand I measured it with my digital calipers numerous times. I measured and cut the bore very slowly until the numbers matched exactly to the thousandth. Since there was no way to tell how many tenths I was off, I just prayed a little and went for it. The fit is great. Nice and snug.
FYI, I really didn't have a great way to accurately measure the ID of my bored hole. Since I had the bearing in hand I measured it with my digital calipers numerous times. I measured and cut the bore very slowly until the numbers matched exactly to the thousandth. Since there was no way to tell how many tenths I was off, I just prayed a little and went for it. The fit is great. Nice and snug.
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ELR LVR
Silver $$ Contributor
Perhaps apply some sleeve Loctite (Green) on the bearing O.D. to ensure it at least may not move due to temp changes if it's not a tight enough press fit?
(could you have used Telescopic Inside Snap Bore Gauges to measure the bore I.D.? A generic set that covers a range from 5/16" up to 6.0 " is $40)
Also in the future you could:
1 machine the female part .001 under
2 Freeze the bearing for a while,
3 apply Imperial sizing die wax if you like for slipperiness
4 and it should press in nicely, if even drop in then expand itself when it warms up for a good tight fit.
I have fitted parts like this that measured .003" too large for the I.D. of the hole they were suppose to press in
The Imperial Sizing lube is extra insurance that the part keeps pressing in if for instance you heated the female part to expand then grabbed your frozen part and start pressing
this process saves on a lot of hammering or binding
A few examples of this might be Press in fit Piston Wrist Pins
or press in ball joints
---and U-Joint bearing cups
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Thanks. Those are all good points. I will keep them in mind. I have snap gauges but they didn't go big enough for this bore. I need to get a bigger set. Also a good inside micrometer would be nice. Hear that Santa??????
The loading of this bearing should be very light so I am not too worried about the bearing moving. It is also .59" wide so there is good surface contact between the bearing and the bore.
The loading of this bearing should be very light so I am not too worried about the bearing moving. It is also .59" wide so there is good surface contact between the bearing and the bore.
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