Note that for membranes like GoreTex, waterproof/breathable is a continuum. You have to pick where you want to be on that. And yes, if you get quality gear, it'll have ratings in obscure numbers about this, and you can generally compare them. Without a baseline, it can be hard, but it gives you something to go off.
In general, more breathable will be less waterproof: but this is only in really driving rain, or when soaked. You can get soaked more than you'd think. A pack up against your back will provide a way for water to run across the fabric, etc.
(Gore Tex is the best known, and we use it like Kleenex or Band Aid, but it's a brand name. There are knockoffs, and some are very dominant in other markets. Hellytech (Helly Hansen) is common in the UK). Mil surplus outside the US will often, even if they do use Gore brand lining, not say that but call it something else. Be aware of this when shopping.
The membrane is on The In Side. This is critical. Because what it means is you have to make the outside water resistant in the standard old way. If the water resistance sucks (or wears out) then 1) You can be technically dry, but effectively uncomfortable because a cold, soaking wet thing is up against you 2) The soaking fabric will stop at least the breathability, and may defeat the membrane entirely, so you get wet through the fabric.
VERY high quality garments never get the outer water resistant layer worn out. I have early 1980s French Army stuff, not at all coddled in the 20 years I have had it, that is better than most commercial stuff the day the wrapper is opened in shedding water. But most will wear out. So, pay attention to washing and re-waterproofing. There are many words to be said on this but easiest answer is just to trust whatever Nikwax says. Techwash and whatever their re-waterproofer are, are amazing.
Do. Not. Machine. Dry. Gore. Tex. Do not even get it too near a fire to dry it out or while roasting marshmallows. It is fragile in a few ways, and overheating will ruin it.
Most good jackets will additionally have zippered vents. How many, how big, how they work, where they are all varies. Make sure they work for you, and you can get to them. A great one for keeping cool is across the back vents but... impossible to get to (you need a buddy) and again, blocked by packs, or even just sitting against a tree.
Aside from checking the breathability, fit varies a lot. Try to try a bunch on. No idea where the good hunting brands are carried, but search a bit. For other high end commercial I say REI but some hold political grudges and it's unsat so if you think so: keep it to yourself. They have a wide selection (up through Arcteryx (SP?) and other high dollar, very good brands. Try them on before you dismiss the $500-900 price tag. You may not want to spend the money, but it is good to see where the money goes when you are shopping for it.
If you want to start cheap to have a starting point, go surplus. Not US. After a lot of wearing in bad conditions, not a fan of the ECWS parka. These are a few VERY good, generally lightweight ones from a place I like to deal with who is nice about returns if they get the order wrong, etc:
No hood, very nice soft collar, other good features. Pretty darned light, but not UL backpacker light. Pretty much my favorite hardshell in my life to date:
https://www.keepshooting.com/british-army-mtp-rain-jacket.html
Hood. Light-ish:
https://www.keepshooting.com/british-army-mvp-woodland-dpm-combat-jacket.html
Hood, a whole grade sturdier than the above but also heavier. I tend to think better for fall/winter than spring/summer. Crazy good waterproofing:
https://www.keepshooting.com/french-army-mvp-cce-parka.html
A spare hardshell is always good to have, so it's not like you will be throwing away the $40-50 these cost. Get, use, then make the secondary one for walking the dog, shoveling the walk, behind the seat on the truck, or loaning to the dumb friend with the poncho
