It definitely don't seem to be big on the back end I use lake city all the time have not had any problems but I know what mine was shot in .
Likely a Stupid Question
- Thread starter DeadEyeDick45
- Start date
I don't know the answer to that question cause I'm not sure what "case swipe" means. I do feel a brushing or a grabbing on the brass when I lower the Ram, always assumed it was the decapping rod coming out of the neck.
That's next thing in the morning, thanks.
Nope, haven't seen that yet.
Downhill
Gold $$ Contributor
I ran into the same problem with LC M852 Match brass. After full length sizing the bolt was hard to close in a factory chamber and would not close in a match chamber. Probably used in the M14 back in the day. I had 20 cases annealed and problem solved. Size fine in both RCBS and Redding dies now. That Lake City stuff is hard as a rock!
I was just going to ask that question. I have access to an annealer and I will run some tomorrow.
Thanks to everyone for the assistance, you've reminded me of several things I should have tried BEFORE even asking my question.
My thoughts are:
dwell time, possibly 10 seconds, being compressed in a small base die - looking at procedures for running Rockwell hardness tests that involve embedding a small steel ball in various materials under measured forces call for dwell times and subjecting your brass to deformation in a die has some similarities.
check for brass length.
I am not familiar with a T-7 press but that might contribute to the problem. Using a Rockchucker press would eliminate that aspect.
I shoot a .20 Practical using once fired brass that probably has been fired in semi-autos. Should I use LC 5.56 brass, previous use in AR type rifles is a given. As one of the first steps once fired brass is F/L sized in small base dies.
At one time I used once fired GI LC match grade brass mostly fired in bolt guns and F/L sized that and did not have any problems.
dwell time, possibly 10 seconds, being compressed in a small base die - looking at procedures for running Rockwell hardness tests that involve embedding a small steel ball in various materials under measured forces call for dwell times and subjecting your brass to deformation in a die has some similarities.
check for brass length.
I am not familiar with a T-7 press but that might contribute to the problem. Using a Rockchucker press would eliminate that aspect.
I shoot a .20 Practical using once fired brass that probably has been fired in semi-autos. Should I use LC 5.56 brass, previous use in AR type rifles is a given. As one of the first steps once fired brass is F/L sized in small base dies.
At one time I used once fired GI LC match grade brass mostly fired in bolt guns and F/L sized that and did not have any problems.
I use an RCBS small base X-die and LC and WW brass shoots just fine in my LR-308. There should not be any problem if your press is working right and you are using an AR-10 or LR-308. The bolt gun might have too tight a chamber for this brass, so take this as a suggestion for a new rifle.
Someoldguy
I would suggest you download and print a copy of the .308 Win specs available from SAAMI. Keep in mind you are dealing with Lake City 7.62x51 NATO, which is SIMILAR, but NOT precisely the same as .308 Win.
Did you buy this brass un-prepped? If it was run through a chain-gun, there will be marks from the belt clips. And if the chamber was 'generous', you'll know it when you FLS it the first time, unless your FLS die is also 'generous'. I had some LC brass once that, while I could re-size it, I decided it just wasn't worth the trouble. If your die has been working for you in the past, then it should work for you now. Have you noticed any problems before?
Anyway, take some fired brass from your .308, preferably 2x fired and compare it to the SAAMI specs using a 1" micrometer and measuring at the reference points on the SAAMI print. Next, take some of your FLS LC brass and using the same techniques, compare it to the SAAMI specs. Your answer will be found therein.
We can speculate until the cows come home. Precise measuring against a known standard is the only way to determine the answer with certainty.
Did you buy this brass un-prepped? If it was run through a chain-gun, there will be marks from the belt clips. And if the chamber was 'generous', you'll know it when you FLS it the first time, unless your FLS die is also 'generous'. I had some LC brass once that, while I could re-size it, I decided it just wasn't worth the trouble. If your die has been working for you in the past, then it should work for you now. Have you noticed any problems before?
Anyway, take some fired brass from your .308, preferably 2x fired and compare it to the SAAMI specs using a 1" micrometer and measuring at the reference points on the SAAMI print. Next, take some of your FLS LC brass and using the same techniques, compare it to the SAAMI specs. Your answer will be found therein.
We can speculate until the cows come home. Precise measuring against a known standard is the only way to determine the answer with certainty.
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As far as your stupid Question goes. The only stupid question is the one not asked. You are fine sir.. Tommy Mc
KMart
Gold $$ Contributor
From Buckeye Bullets & Brass
We have seen brass that is new in the box but that has been stored for several years to be is “hard”. This makes turning concentric necks more difficult, as well as a higher case loss due to cracked shoulders during fire forming.
Their solution to this is annealing. You probably have oversized brass from a large chamber and has been setting for a long time. It can't hurt to anneal some and try.
centerlineseal
Gold $$ Contributor
"May need to run it through a small base die."
What he said.
What he said.
Annealed all the 308 brass this morning and FL sized them all. I randomly checked 20 of the brass by chambering and closing the bolt; EVERYONE I checked allowed the bolt to close WITHOUT effort. Now, since I shoot mostly cast in these cases, I shouldn't have to full length size again, right? I have a neck die to use for subsequent reloads. My other brass that I shoot jacketed in probably won't need FL sizing for several reloads since I tend to load on the lower end of the "hot rod" scale.
Thanks to everyone who helped.
BTW, prior to annealing the brass I ran a few through the FL die mounted in the RockChucker and held the ram up for 15 seconds. They chambered alright as well.
Thanks to everyone who helped.
BTW, prior to annealing the brass I ran a few through the FL die mounted in the RockChucker and held the ram up for 15 seconds. They chambered alright as well.
Representative of how the brass turned out.
Dusty Stevens
Shiner
I bought a huge box of lc 308 brass that was supposed to be match but i think it came from a minigun. Annealed it and it was fine. Thinking that huge box was part of a soldiers smile for about a few seconds 
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