Level reloading stand

[ab_bentley]

A few weeks ago I got the urge to make a leveling platform for my 5-0-5 scale. Finally finished it off this morning. I threaded 4 pillars and epoxied them into the corners. I don't know if it'll increase accuracy, but it can't hurt.

Anyone else level their balance beams?

Adam

 

[gotcha]

Interesting! What tool/method do you use to determine the scale is level? Doesn't seem to me that using a "bullseye" level on your leveling stand necessarily means the two right feet of the scale are producing a level condition for the fulcrum (agates). Maybe I'm missing something here.

 

[Ggmac]

My balance has leveling feet and a bubble on it . It's important to do . If I dont I can move the poise .2-.3 grains by changing level .

 

[ab_bentley]

Interesting! What tool/method do you use to determine the scale is level? Doesn't seem to me that using a "bullseye" level on your leveling stand necessarily means the two right feet of the scale are producing a level condition for the fulcrum (agates). Maybe I'm missing something here.

I'm using a starrett level currently. It's a two way level.

Adam

 

[Lapua40X]

I use a theodolite. Takes a little more time but really accurate.

 

[JohnKielly]

Maybe float it on mercury like those lighthouses.....

 

[TAJ45]

Levels, like anything, are offered in different accuracy levels.
One common one ordered by most unknowing supes are good for .010 / ft. Absolutely worthless for mill or lathe.

 

[LC Tikka]

Levels, like anything, are offered in different accuracy levels.
One common one ordered by most unknowing supes are good for .010 / ft. Absolutely worthless for mill or lathe.

If you cannot attain absolute accuracy, which is questionable with timber items. Then the next best thing is consistancy.
Locate the scale on the platform and fix levels of reasonable quality to the platform then set the bubble at each use, you would not be far off the mark.

 

[TAJ45]

Just a tip for a slight accuracy edge, turn level 180* to split mfrg tolerance.

 

[IdahoSharpshooter]

Mine sits on a 6" by 10" by 2" thick aluminum block.

 

[BillPa]

Anyone else level their balance beams?

Mine isn't as purdy as yours but .....

A couple things. One, the scale/base was leveled both front-back off the agate bearing mounts. Two, under the leveling adjustment is a steel bushing for it's 'nub' to ride in. Three there are two angled pins, one each front-back on the right side to locate the scale body and finally four, I put a few wraps of teflon tape on the leveling screw threads to take up the slop.

With the bushing and pins it can't move during use (fat fingers!) and can be returned to its exact position if removed some reason. Oh, the bubble level? Its only an error indicator. If it's off and or I would need to level I know something isn't right, but I haven't needed to touch the level adjustment in the last year and a half after having it off a couple dozen times.

The pan and pan support? The support is from an old D7 and the pan a Lyman funnel pan. The D7 support allows more room ( fat fingers again!) to put the pan on and take it off than the 505's and the funnel pan eliminates the need to transfer the powder to another funnel when charging a case. I throw, weigh, dump and repeat.
Bill

 

[6MMsteve]

I have mine setting on a 4x4 pc of white maple screwed to my benchtop, setting up high makes it easy to access when weighin charges, more room for hand to scale plus I have a magnifying glass setup for fairly close pointer readings

 

[danny]

I put a spring from a ball point pen behind my leveling screw, up in the cavity of the scale. It is always applying tension on the screw to load it in one direction to limit the effects of slop. It has worked well that way for a lot of years.

Danny

Mine isn't as purdy as yours but .....

A couple things. One, the scale/base was leveled both front-back off the agate bearing mounts. Two, under the leveling adjustment is a steel bushing for it's 'nub' to ride in. Three there are two angled pins, one each front-back on the right side to locate the scale body and finally four, I put a few wraps of teflon tape on the leveling screw threads to take up the slop.

With the bushing and pins it can't move during use (fat fingers!) and can be returned to its exact position if removed some reason. Oh, the bubble level? Its only an error indicator. If it's off and or I would need to level I know something isn't right, but I haven't needed to touch the level adjustment in the last year and a half after having it off a couple dozen times.

The pan and pan support? The support is from an old D7 and the pan a Lyman funnel pan. The D7 support allows more room ( fat fingers again!) to put the pan on and take it off than the 505's and the funnel pan eliminates the need to transfer the powder to another funnel when charging a case. I throw, weigh, dump and repeat.
Bill

 

[TAJ45]

Some very good tips here. Will incorporate wth the Parker / 10-10. I use a pc of marble as a base and keep it around head hgt to lessen the line of sight error.
I would definitely like a lead on a funnel pan, even knowing I would probably have to alter the counter wgt shot.
Good suggestions, keep'em coming.

 

[BillPa]

Some very good tips here. Will incorporate wth the Parker / 10-10. I use a pc of marble as a base and keep it around head hgt to lessen the line of sight error.
I would definitely like a lead on a funnel pan, even knowing I would probably have to alter the counter wgt shot.

In my instance the funnel pad was lighter than the 505's pan so I added weight(washer-solder) to match. IIRC they both weigh 141.72grs. The same with the D7 pan support, I adjusted it's' weight with lead shot and or pieces thereof to match the 505's. As a result I can mix and match pans-supports if I need to.

Bill

 

[dedogs]

I made damn sure my entire bench is level. I can put the balance scale wherever I want it. dedogs

 

[Matt in Virginia]

fwiw & imho,
Level, like many things in life, is relative to your level of resolution. Just like scale resolution you need not break out a Starrett 199Z in order to get a reasonably flat surface. If you have a surface you think is flat then continue to use it with pleasure. I have a character flaw of NOT BEING ABLE TO LEAVE WELL ENOUGH ALONE. Hence I went from a German Stabilla(which is an excellent builders level) to the Starrett 6" & 12" Machinist levels. To add misery to knowledge they had a another small bubble y axis. In short what was level with the Stabilla was not quite level with the Starrett standard Machinist Levels. A friend noticed this and brought over a Starrett 199Z that essentially used for setting up machine tool as oppose to setting work as being level on them... In short more resolution can be TOO MUCH of a good thing...fwiw & imho.

Regards, Matt.