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Leupold 45 Comp Scope Blue hue.

Brand new scope I get it and it has canted crosshairs. In the shadow's I get a blue hue. Some might call it a blue tint. I drove it to Leupold and they fix the crosshairs and the blue tint is still there. This normal for this scope? Or did my Nightforce 15-55 Comp have me spoiled?
 
I have the same scope and I do not see a blue hue. Actually like scope and my only criticism is the eye relief which is so touchy you have to be right on the correct distance or zap...it's black. This is the Leupold 45x (fixed) Competition scope...45 obj...30mm tube
 
Corvette0096 said:
So let say your looking at a tree limb at 200 yards the surround area has no hue?

Correct. NO HUE blue or otherwise. Just now I just set the rifle on the dinning room table (and I have a huge field maybe 700 yards to thee tree line) that I can look across. I have 100,200, and a 500 yard marker out there. I even opened the window so I knew it was a clear view and not thru glass. No hue at any point. ( great field, not mine and across a road----great looking but no shooting.)
 
To think this went though the custom shop... I'm Ticked. Only 45 minutes from my house but the traffic is crap. Did the drive twice last week.
 
I got three LPS's and they do the job they were designed for: allow my Bench rigs to shoot very small. If I wanted a dual purpose scope that could also double for bird watching, I probably would have opted for Swarovski optics.
 
LHSmith said:
I got three LPS's and they do the job they were designed for: allow my Bench rigs to shoot very small. If I wanted a dual purpose scope that could also double for bird watching, I probably would have opted for Swarovski optics.

Why would you want a scope to do bird watching with??
 
vette,,,to most competetive shooters image quality and edge clarity are secondary to the scopes ability to hold a zero and to track reliably without requireing more than one shot to settle in,,,Roger
 
expiper said:
vette,,,to most competetive shooters image quality and edge clarity are secondary to the scopes ability to hold a zero and to track reliably without requireing more than one shot to settle in,,,Roger

The black rings are a blurred out. I know how to shoot. Tried to take a picture with the cell phone but that's like almost impossible.

 
Did you adjust your side focus by the markings on the scale or by trial and error, for the sharpest target image?
 
BoydAllen said:
Did you adjust your side focus by the markings on the scale or by trial and error, for the sharpest target image?

Yah I tried everything. Just had the 18 year old son check it out to make sure my eyes are ok. That is cool he said.. How did you do that? Looks like a neon sign blue. :)
 
Send it in. The scopes of the same make and model that you have that I have looked through had great optics. IMO something is wrong with yours, and should be covered by warranty.
 
BoydAllen said:
Send it in. The scopes of the same make and model that you have that I have looked through had great optics. IMO something is wrong with yours, and should be covered by warranty.

Think the coating is messed up. Yes they will get a call from me tomorrow.
 
#1/ The yardage graduations on the parallax adjustment are not accurate......you have to adjust EACH shooting session by adjusting for zero CH movement when moving your eye position side to side ( or up and down).
#2/ The Parallax adjustment is best done by dialing all the way below 100 yd mark ...and then slowly bringing it up (towards "100" mark) until all parallax is out.....IF you go past the ideal adjustment, it is best to go back down below "100" mark and start again.
#3/ Depending on the atmospheric conditions present when you are using the scope, there may be mirage between you and the target...not necessarily a boiling mirage, but a mirky type of mirage that will affect ANY optics. This is often seen in early AM, late PM, on snow covered ground, or shooting from inside a heated building in winter.
#4/ Remember there is a focus adjustment on the eyepiece......the PA adjustment is NOT for focusing for clarity.

Do not expect $3000 optics on a scope that was SPECIFICALLY designed to shoot at black & white ( 100/200 yard BR), red &white (300 yd BR), or blue & white (600/ 1000 yd BR) paper targets.
 
LHSmith said:
#2/ The Parallax adjustment is best done by dialing all the way below 100 yd mark ...and then slowly bringing it up (towards "100" mark) until all parallax is out.....IF you go past the ideal adjustment, it is best to go back down below "100" mark and start again.

Actually, it is just the opposite. To remove parallax (with a side adjustment scope), you need to start from the infinity end, and slowly come back to the range of the target.

There is slop in the mechanism of the adjustment, and you must make sure that the slop is such that when the rifle recoils, the erector cell does not shift into the slop, but is held in place because the slop is on the other side of the recoil direction.

With an adjustable Objective scope that does not have a locking ring, there is no need to worry, because the objective is spring loaded and there is no slop. If the AO scope has a locking ring, use it!

http://www.snipercountry.com/Articles/Parallax.asp
 
CatShooter said:
LHSmith said:
#2/ The Parallax adjustment is best done by dialing all the way below 100 yd mark ...and then slowly bringing it up (towards "100" mark) until all parallax is out.....IF you go past the ideal adjustment, it is best to go back down below "100" mark and start again.

Actually, it is just the opposite. To remove parallax (with a side adjustment scope), you need to start from the infinity end, and slowly come back to the range of the target.

There is slop in the mechanism of the adjustment, and you must make sure that the slop is such that when the rifle recoils, the erector cell does not shift into the slop, but is held in place because the slop is on the other side of the recoil direction.

With an adjustable Objective scope that does not have a locking ring, there is no need to worry, because the objective is spring loaded and there is no slop. If the AO scope has a locking ring, use it!

http://www.snipercountry.com/Articles/Parallax.asp

The link is an education in scopes. Not the easiest read but from it I gather every time you adjust for parallax you MUST start at infinity (∞)
and work backwards. Is that correct?
 
M-61 said:
CatShooter said:
LHSmith said:
#2/ The Parallax adjustment is best done by dialing all the way below 100 yd mark ...and then slowly bringing it up (towards "100" mark) until all parallax is out.....IF you go past the ideal adjustment, it is best to go back down below "100" mark and start again.

Actually, it is just the opposite. To remove parallax (with a side adjustment scope), you need to start from the infinity end, and slowly come back to the range of the target.

There is slop in the mechanism of the adjustment, and you must make sure that the slop is such that when the rifle recoils, the erector cell does not shift into the slop, but is held in place because the slop is on the other side of the recoil direction.

With an adjustable Objective scope that does not have a locking ring, there is no need to worry, because the objective is spring loaded and there is no slop. If the AO scope has a locking ring, use it!

http://www.snipercountry.com/Articles/Parallax.asp

The link is an education in scopes. Not the easiest read but from it I gather every time you adjust for parallax you MUST start at infinity (∞)
and work backwards. Is that correct?

Yes... that is correct. If you are at 400, and want to go to 200, you can go directly - but if you are at 200, and want to go to 400, you must go to infinity and come back to 400 yds.
 
chromatic aberration is the problem.



chromatic-aberration.jpg
 

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