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lesson learned...primer pockets

  • Thread starter Thread starter Deleted old_dood
  • Start date Start date

Deleted old_dood

got a new Shilen barrel in 223ai for my Savage 12 a while back. I usually use Lapua brass but, for this barrel, I bought 250 LC. The first group of 50 I fireformed was during the winter so I had plenty of time to fully prep the brass (less neck turning) which included uniforming the primer pockets with a K&M uniformer. Those 50, went off without a hitch.

The next group of 30 I did last week. I didn't bother with the primer pocket uniforming since I really never had to do that with Lapua brass. Out of the 30, I had 5 misfires which showed light strikes. Since I had just had my bolt bushed, replaced the FP spring, and added a bolt lift kit, I assumed the problem might be too light FP spring pressure or not enough protrusion. I gave my last two cartridges to the shooter next to me who, fortunately, had a 223. They both misfired. I then realized that the only difference between the first 50 and these, were not doing the primer pockets. My primer tool is one that's adjustable for feeling the primer bottom out yet I never felt anything wrong in inserting the primers in those cases and visual inspection never showed and primers proud of the case bottom.

Long story short, yesterday the five cases that misfired all fired well after uniforming the pockets. Looks like I'll have to do that on all the rest.

My K&M uniformer probably needs a new cutter since I'd have to press it in quite hard to cut to the desired depth. I saw that PMA tool had their small primer uniformer on sale and since it includes a carbide cutter, I decided to give it a try. I'm happy to say that the PMA tool works much better.
 
to the two respondents above...how would you explain the fact that I gave another shooter with a 223 two rounds which both misfired and showed light strikes?

BTW, the priming tool is a 21st Century that I've loaded thousands of rounds with. The primers in question were CCI 450s

another thing. When I got the bolt back after bushing I headspaced the rifle assuming some material may have been removed during that procedure.
 
Another WAG; does the LC brass have primer pocket crimps? If so, perhaps the "un-uniformed" cases may still have a crimp and it's interfering with proper primer seating. High seated primers will misfire in most guns, thus the failure to fire in the other shooter's rifle...
 
Another WAG; does the LC brass have primer pocket crimps? If so, perhaps the "un-uniformed" cases may still have a crimp and it's interfering with proper primer seating. High seated primers will misfire in most guns, thus the failure to fire in the other shooter's rifle...
all new unfired brass. like I said, in OP, no primers appeared proud of case bottom.
 
450's do have a harder cup.
But your probably aware of this.
Have you tried the 400's?
 
450's do have a harder cup.
But your probably aware of this.
Have you tried the 400's?
yes. after uniforming 25 of new unfired brass and 25 once fired I loaded with CCI 400 and all fired fine. In addition, I loaded 25 of my original 50 with CCI 450s and they too fired. I examined the dimple in all the fired cases and they all looked the same.
 
I guess I’m not seeing how a uniformed versus un-uniformed primer pocket makes a difference whether or not a primer will ignite.

Uniformed or not, when I seat primers until I feel a good solid stop, they go off regardless of brass brand.
again, I'll repeat. 21st Century priming tool, primer definitely bottomed out, give rounds to another 223 shooter and get misfires. Without having the same lot of LC brass, respectfully, I don't think your comment is valid.
 
again, I'll repeat. 21st Century priming tool, primer definitely bottomed out, give rounds to another 223 shooter and get misfires. Without having the same lot of LC brass, respectfully, I don't think your comment is valid.


I understood your first post. I’m good at reading comprehension. My comment is valid because I don’t think your problem lies with un-uniformed primer pockets causing the primers to not ignite.

Keep doing what your doing if it works for you.
 
Old dood, I think you want to believe it's the magic of the tool . Sounds like you after all the gimmicks available and tried more than one , but still you believe it could only be the pockets .
This is why it's much better to make and sell a gadget than it is to be A precision riflesmith!
I would suggest a forester case gauge . Also question you reloading dies . Some older 223 were actually 5.56 and sized for the military 5.56 .
 
Old dood, I think you want to believe it's the magic of the tool . Sounds like you after all the gimmicks available and tried more than one , but still you believe it could only be the pockets .
This is why it's much better to make and sell a gadget than it is to be A precision riflesmith!
I would suggest a forester case gauge . Also question you reloading dies . Some older 223 were actually 5.56 and sized for the military 5.56 .
don't know how the dies would have anything to do with it as these were fire forming rounds with new virgin brass. Only thing I did to them was use an expander on the necks.
 
don't know how the dies would have anything to do with it as these were fire forming rounds with new virgin brass. Only thing I did to them was use an expander on the necks.
So you never ran the shell holder to the die bottom ? And the guy next to you was running a 223 ACKLEY also ?
 
don't know how the dies would have anything to do with it as these were fire forming rounds with new virgin brass. Only thing I did to them was use an expander on the necks.
We all know 5.56 is dif than 223 . You say you used a 223ackley for headspace = min 1.5032
Rem 223 is 1.4636 min
I'm using a print book but you should get the idea .
Your brass / cartridge was under size giving excessive clearance in your Ackley chamber .
 

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