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Lengthening a Chamber by Hand Turned Reamer?

hoz53

Gold $$ Contributor
I want to deepen a .223 chamber on a R700 Varmint (factory barrel). The bolt of this gun will not close on a go gauge. I have a .223 Wylde reamer so I thought I would try to ream it by hand. Would this work or is there to much throat to ream? If I mess up the barrel I havent lost much. It dont shoot good anyway. Thanks
 
If it has been shot much I don't think the throat and Wylde reamer will be the issue. Recutting the throat takes little effort. In fact depending on round count and possible throat wear with a factory chamber you may not even cut any of the throat? Have you checked lug contact yet and or made sure every thing is clean(don't check it dry,make sure there is some lube on lugs so you don't gall things)? I doubt you would have to remove more than a couple thousandths as most are almost too deep from the factory unless you have screwed another used/new barrel on a used action? Still won't be much metal removal I am guessing? With sometimes a used/work hardened existing chamber could result in chatter on shoulder unless you keep pressure steady and constant which will be your biggest concern turning by hand. Well, at least that has been the only issue I have encountered. If you have no worries about 'bad luck' like I usually run into then get after it. Use of a good cutting oil is of utmost importance to get a clean cut/finish and not trash your reamer. Don't know if this ramble will help you at all or not.:confused: Again, be carefull as it takes little time to end up on the other side. Clean out all oil etc before each test to see where you are at!
 
I want to deepen a .223 chamber on a R700 Varmint (factory barrel). The bolt of this gun will not close on a go gauge. I have a .223 Wylde reamer so I thought I would try to ream it by hand. Would this work or is there to much throat to ream? If I mess up the barrel I havent lost much. It dont shoot good anyway. Thanks
It Dont shoot good anyway???? If it won't close on a go gauge are you standing on the bolt handle to get it to close on a cartridge? Probably won't shoot very well doing that. A little clean up in that chamber might do wonders. Whirlwind has pretty good advice.
 
If it has been shot much I don't think the throat and Wylde reamer will be the issue. Recutting the throat takes little effort. In fact depending on round count and possible throat wear with a factory chamber you may not even cut any of the throat? Have you checked lug contact yet and or made sure every thing is clean(don't check it dry,make sure there is some lube on lugs so you don't gall things)? I doubt you would have to remove more than a couple thousandths as most are almost too deep from the factory unless you have screwed another used/new barrel on a used action? Still won't be much metal removal I am guessing? With sometimes a used/work hardened existing chamber could result in chatter on shoulder unless you keep pressure steady and constant which will be your biggest concern turning by hand. Well, at least that has been the only issue I have encountered. If you have no worries about 'bad luck' like I usually run into then get after it. Use of a good cutting oil is of utmost importance to get a clean cut/finish and not trash your reamer. Don't know if this ramble will help you at all or not.:confused: Again, be carefull as it takes little time to end up on the other side. Clean out all oil etc before each test to see where you are at!
Hi Whirlwind--Thanks for the reply. I bought this rifle new some years ago. It didn't shoot to good so I put it aside until recently I decided to see what I could do with it. Round count is under 200. I just checked headspace for first time recently. I cleaned the chamber thoroughly today and bolt still will not close on a go gauge. It will close on a factory load with a little extra force on the bolt handle. Bore looks good but it appears chamber is cut very crooked in relation to bore. Your post provided me with the info about hand clambering I was looking for. On this one I've decided to pull the barrel and cut about .400" off the breech. Then Rechamber it and use a good recoil lug. This way I can control headspace, check the lug seats, and hopefully clean up the throat. I know I won't straiten out the chamber but it will be a fun project. If it doesn't work I think I'll make an AR-15 barrel out of it. Thanks again for the help
 
It Dont shoot good anyway???? If it won't close on a go gauge are you standing on the bolt handle to get it to close on a cartridge? Probably won't shoot very well doing that. A little clean up in that chamber might do wonders. Whirlwind has pretty good advice.
Hi Riesel-- Cheaned the heck out of this chamber today. Still won't close on a go gauge. I think it came this way new I just haven't checked headspace until now. Thanks Hoz
 
You may have a cleaning brush bristle stuck in the chamber or other debris.

What ever you do, take it/send it to a good gunsmith....this is weird.
Hi acklyman. Cleaned this chamber today and looked it over best I could with a bore scope. Still won't close on go gauge. On to the next step. Thanks
 
If it does not close on a go gauge, then it should have problems closing on new factory ammo at times also?

Send it back to the factory after calling them and telling them the issue. They may probably pay for postage
 
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If it does not close on a go gauge, then it should have problems closing on new factory ammo at times also?
That is what I think to. It does close harder on factory ammo but it will close. I guess the camming action will move the softer brass but not steel of go gauge. Handloads I have to turn my size die down until the press cams over to get it to close on them. I think the unfired brass is softer. I suppose my gauge could be off a little. I checked to make sure it was the go gauge. I wish you lived closer Id bring it over for you to check out. I dont think there is a gunsmith within a 100 miles of me that works on stuff like this. Id like a 2nd opinion for sure but it doesnt matter cause ive decided to cut it off. Thanks
 
I'd call Remington and tell them exactly what you posted here and see if they'll make good on it. As the owner, you can ship it to them and it can be returned to you, no FFL required. You may get lucky and have a new barrel installed that will shoot better.
 
I'd call Remington and tell them exactly what you posted here and see if they'll make good on it. As the owner, you can ship it to them and it can be returned to you, no FFL required. You may get lucky and have a new barrel installed that will shoot better.
Thanks patrol. I may do that.
 
Several items in the post raise red flags. "Bore looks good but it appears chamber is cut very crooked in relation to bore." A little cerro-safe and some measuring can confirm this. Go guage doesn't fit. Is it a 5.56 Go guage? Or is it a .223 Remington go-guage? They are different, however slightly, they are different.

"Handloads I have to turn my size die down until the press cams over to get it to close on them." If your dies size your brass so they fit the gun, what is the issue? You don't shoot the go-guage. If it doesn't fit is really a moot point if ammo fits.

Have a bore scope? I would bet you have a burr in the chamber. Check your brass to see if any marks in the neck that could possibly be cause by a burr. You might also get some .223 Remington ammo and some 5.56 ammo and see if one fits better than the other. Again, minor differences, but can seem like big problems.

Steve :)
 
Several items in the post raise red flags. "Bore looks good but it appears chamber is cut very crooked in relation to bore." A little cerro-safe and some measuring can confirm this. Go guage doesn't fit. Is it a 5.56 Go guage? Or is it a .223 Remington go-guage? They are different, however slightly, they are different.

"Handloads I have to turn my size die down until the press cams over to get it to close on them." If your dies size your brass so they fit the gun, what is the issue? You don't shoot the go-guage. If it doesn't fit is really a moot point if ammo fits.

Have a bore scope? I would bet you have a burr in the chamber. Check your brass to see if any marks in the neck that could possibly be cause by a burr. You might also get some .223 Remington ammo and some 5.56 ammo and see if one fits better than the other. Again, minor differences, but can seem like big problems.

Steve :)
Thanks Shaggy-- all good points --I will check them out- I think I will cerrosafe this today.
 
Hoz,
I think you have the right idea to fix it yourself or have a local smith do it. You do need the right driver to make sure you do it right. This is kindo a touch thing. Use a t handle and keep forces balanced around the center to make sure you don't cut where you don't want to cut. --Jerry
 
Hoz,
I think you have the right idea to fix it yourself or have a local smith do it. You do need the right driver to make sure you do it right. This is kindo a touch thing. Use a t handle and keep forces balanced around the center to make sure you don't cut where you don't want to cut. --Jerry
And go S-L-O-W and careful.....cleaning and checking often.
 

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