My Lee 308 resizing die is collapsing the case necks, suddenly. I was resizing 308 cases before trimming, and all of a sudden the die wouldn't accept the case (as if there is some kind of obstruction, there isn't), and when I finally pushed the case all the way into the die and then extracted the case, the neck was completely pressed in. Any ideas why this would happen? It literally happened in between resizing cases, and nothing changed with the die (that I'm aware of).
Lee Die is Collapsing Case Necks -- Advice?
- Thread starter gbr7519
- Start date
Is this a collet die or F/L ?
That's one reason why I stopped using the collet dies. I saw a friend ruin some brass with one and decided not to mess with them anymore.
Rocketvapor
Gold $$ Contributor
Take the collet die apart.
Put a case into just the lower collet part.
It should slide in with NO resistance.
Take the sizing mandrel and it should slide into the neck with no resistance.
Put it all back together.
Use too much force sizing and the two cone pieces will stick together.
That will close the collet and the case will be destroyed if you then try to force the case in.
User error. Case should go into the die with NO force required.
Try it. Case will drop into the die if held upside down.
Use it correctly and it will work.
Put a case into just the lower collet part.
It should slide in with NO resistance.
Take the sizing mandrel and it should slide into the neck with no resistance.
Put it all back together.
Use too much force sizing and the two cone pieces will stick together.
That will close the collet and the case will be destroyed if you then try to force the case in.
User error. Case should go into the die with NO force required.
Try it. Case will drop into the die if held upside down.
Use it correctly and it will work.
Thanks for elaborating. I had just come in from dinner and its to da-- cold to go out and get mine. I'll add that a light coating of grease on the outside of the collet will help as will lightly polishing it with Flitz.
memilanuk
Gold $$ Contributor
Yup. It's not a new problem; been around for years. I've had people tell me 'run it wet' (some kind of lube), 'run it dry', do this, do that, 'the collet is locked up', this, that, and every other f'ing thing in between.
When I had them, they'd run great... but about every 20 or so rounds, it'd just grab a case neck and shove it down inside the shoulder, completely trashing the case. The *only* thing that ever seemed to alleviate the problem was to polish the ever-living crap out of the mandrel... about every 19-20 rounds, and hope I did it before it stuck the next freaking case.
Or just toss that particular one, and get a new one. Better yet, toss the LCD entirely and go with a proper F/L bushing die and an expander mandrel setup.
Rocketvapor
Gold $$ Contributor
The mandrel diameter should be at or below bullet diameter. It will slip in.
With light force I do have to polish the cones (both) every few hundred cases.
IF the case drags going in the collet is closed.
You should be able to FEEL the case not wanting to enter the collet neck section.
STOP.
Having to clean out lube, or polish die parts is an inconvenience.
Crushing a neck in a collet die is user error.
The case, collet, and mandrel are a slip fit when the collet is open.
Just go light and slow.
You will probably still get marks on the neck from the slots. I size, let up, rotate a little, size again.
Old .30-06 case neck sized in a LCD
One advantage of the collet die is it applies NO longitudinal force to the neck, shoulder, body. Just closes down on the neck. Strong arm the ram and groove the collet cone.
IF you use one, use it correctly or go some other route.
With light force I do have to polish the cones (both) every few hundred cases.
IF the case drags going in the collet is closed.
You should be able to FEEL the case not wanting to enter the collet neck section.
STOP.
Having to clean out lube, or polish die parts is an inconvenience.
Crushing a neck in a collet die is user error.
The case, collet, and mandrel are a slip fit when the collet is open.
Just go light and slow.
You will probably still get marks on the neck from the slots. I size, let up, rotate a little, size again.
Old .30-06 case neck sized in a LCD
One advantage of the collet die is it applies NO longitudinal force to the neck, shoulder, body. Just closes down on the neck. Strong arm the ram and groove the collet cone.
IF you use one, use it correctly or go some other route.
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Dusty Stevens
Shiner
I cant believe they still sell those
Rocketvapor
Gold $$ Contributor
They should sell them with proper instruction.
They work.
USER ERROR - trying to put a case into a closed collet.
They work.
USER ERROR - trying to put a case into a closed collet.
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The collet is simply stuck at the top of the die. Like most things in life, you need to keep maintenance up to a lee collet die (LCD). If the ram doesn't go up easily, dont force it! Simple, its stuck. Stop and don't force it.
I load thousands every year on LCD, and very occasionally have used to have this.
Take the die apart, polish the two mating surfaces at the top of the collet. Polish those surfaces, 400, 600, 800 wet n dry. Finish with a run on 1200 and then lube with a good quality grease. I use a moly grease.
I re polish every 12 months or so... around 2,000 rounds, and no longer have a problem.
I run LCDs on my 308 (with a redding body die), and have tried other bushing dies, but they dont give as good runout and consistency. In my dasher, i run whidden dies and dont miss not having a LCD available as they are excellent.
I load thousands every year on LCD, and very occasionally have used to have this.
Take the die apart, polish the two mating surfaces at the top of the collet. Polish those surfaces, 400, 600, 800 wet n dry. Finish with a run on 1200 and then lube with a good quality grease. I use a moly grease.
I re polish every 12 months or so... around 2,000 rounds, and no longer have a problem.
I run LCDs on my 308 (with a redding body die), and have tried other bushing dies, but they dont give as good runout and consistency. In my dasher, i run whidden dies and dont miss not having a LCD available as they are excellent.
I gave you a like, but did'nt mean to.....I have a total of seven
collet dies and some of those have been re-machined by me
for my wild cats. I keep a close eye on them being cleaned
and lubed. They make very straight ammo, and that solved
a problem I was getting from more expensive brands.....I also
make my own mandrels about .001 apart then my buddy
hard chromes them. Bottom line is, they work for me.
Dusty.....Is there a particular reason for your comment ??
Here is my SA284 Winchester collet die that I modified from
the Lee 7/08 die.
Attachments
Two reloading products I stay away from: Hornady One Shot case lube and Lee collet dies after reading and hearing other shooters problems. Alternatives exist, why go through the headaches. Reloading is supposed to be relaxing and fun. Deforming expensive brass turns it into a frustrating experience.
Rocketvapor
Gold $$ Contributor
Yes, you read about a lot of problems with the LCD.
Yet after decades of using LCD's in various calibers never had a problem, not one.
A case unless the neck is damaged should just fall full depth into a LCD and if it don't there can be only one problem, the collect is in a closed position caused by user error.
Flip that ^ around and from the shell holder a case should full depth insert into a LCD with NO, repeat NO effort !
Those that have used nothing but the traditional FL sizing die know darn well the force needed to press a case into one however those sorts of forces are completely foreign to using a LCD, do that and guaranteed you'll stuff cases.
Then you could just RTFM and get on with neck sizing brass.
LCD's are so much easier on brass, the press and the handloader it's amazing more don't use them.....but as they say it's hard to teach old dogs new tricks.
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Rocketvapor
Gold $$ Contributor
You can do good work with a FL Bushing die, often in a single step.
Size, bump, neck size, but to do the same thing with a Body Die and a LCD takes 2 steps.
Forums are also full of "what size bushing do I need" threads, or "case won't chamber after resizing" threads
I wish Lee hadn't shortened the sizing area of the Collet with the New and Improved model (since 2019 or so).
I modified a .223 die for 22 Nosler/22 Nosgar by shaving off about 0.040" from the bottom of the collet.
The sizing area was long enough to size the whole neck without the case sticking out the top of the collet. Somewhere I have an old spare buried in the spare stuff. Lee want's a lot for a custom LCD, Midway has the die for $19 with my birthday discount, and the undersize mandrel for $3.12.
A 22-250 die has a longer neck area, about the same as the 22N and shaving/turning about 0.150" off the collet bottom would probably size the whole neck. Would also have to cut down the mandrel so it doesnn't bottom out, or maybe use the .223 mandrel.
The birthday price for a body die is $17.14. I have one for most of the things I reload for.
Might just get another and shave for extra bump for a gasser. Cheaper than the set of shell holders.
Size, bump, neck size, but to do the same thing with a Body Die and a LCD takes 2 steps.
Forums are also full of "what size bushing do I need" threads, or "case won't chamber after resizing" threads
I wish Lee hadn't shortened the sizing area of the Collet with the New and Improved model (since 2019 or so).
I modified a .223 die for 22 Nosler/22 Nosgar by shaving off about 0.040" from the bottom of the collet.
The sizing area was long enough to size the whole neck without the case sticking out the top of the collet. Somewhere I have an old spare buried in the spare stuff. Lee want's a lot for a custom LCD, Midway has the die for $19 with my birthday discount, and the undersize mandrel for $3.12.
A 22-250 die has a longer neck area, about the same as the 22N and shaving/turning about 0.150" off the collet bottom would probably size the whole neck. Would also have to cut down the mandrel so it doesnn't bottom out, or maybe use the .223 mandrel.
The birthday price for a body die is $17.14. I have one for most of the things I reload for.
Might just get another and shave for extra bump for a gasser. Cheaper than the set of shell holders.
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