I‘am trying to remove a stuck brass in my Lee full size die. I’ve placed the die in my press , used the two proper size wrenches and cannot get the top nut to loosen or turn. I currently have the die in the freezer. The last time I had this problem, I gave up and ordered another one. Any last suggestions?
Lee die disassembly problem
- Thread starter Allen Roberts
- Start date
Wrap the die in something that will protect it and lock it down in a vise. Using a boxed-end wrench turn the top nut.
If the cold does not help soak with some penetrating oil for about 4 hours then use the vise as mentioned above.
I’ve tried over and over trying to turn the top nut. I have not used a cheater bar yet.
WOW !!! must have been turned down really tight. If the threads are laid down it may be a tough one to get off all in one piece.
The one time I had a similar problem, I locked the top nut in a vise and used an open end wrench on the die flats. Don't remember what it was. It was close to getting buggered when it let go. Next step was a big set of curved jaw vise grips. It will mess up how the die looks, but, it will still be functional.
FWIW, you can drill them out too. The stems are soft enough to cut flush, use a center drill to start. But, you need replacement stem/nut. If you have other Lee die the nuts are the same.
Yes, you can drive the stem down....if you can get the nut loose enough.
FWIW, you can drill them out too. The stems are soft enough to cut flush, use a center drill to start. But, you need replacement stem/nut. If you have other Lee die the nuts are the same.
Yes, you can drive the stem down....if you can get the nut loose enough.
I’m soaking the die overnight with Kroil. I will try the hammer method tomorrow.
I've never had this problem, how much force did you use to tighten the collet nut holding the stem in??
I tighten the nut "normally" and try a few pieces of brass through the die. If the stem moves, I tighten it a little more until it doesn't.
The Lee decapping stem is usually left with a slightly rough finish to grip the inside of the collet nut and keep it from moving easily.
If you can't break it loose, I'd suggest using a six point socket on it. If that doesn't work, send it back to Lee after calling them. They might replace it free of charge, they're good to deal with in that respect.
I think they offer a service to remove stuck cases as well, so they may just remove the case, polish the die and send it back to you.
Incidentally, I had a stuck case a couple of years ago in a Lee FL die (my fault) and I tried using the decapping stem as they suggest, to drive the case out of the die.
I have to admit, I was pretty skeptical about it A: working to get the case out, and B: the stem and die surviving the attempt.
It worked like a charm, and I'm still using the same die and stem today.
I tighten the nut "normally" and try a few pieces of brass through the die. If the stem moves, I tighten it a little more until it doesn't.
The Lee decapping stem is usually left with a slightly rough finish to grip the inside of the collet nut and keep it from moving easily.
If you can't break it loose, I'd suggest using a six point socket on it. If that doesn't work, send it back to Lee after calling them. They might replace it free of charge, they're good to deal with in that respect.
I think they offer a service to remove stuck cases as well, so they may just remove the case, polish the die and send it back to you.
Incidentally, I had a stuck case a couple of years ago in a Lee FL die (my fault) and I tried using the decapping stem as they suggest, to drive the case out of the die.
I have to admit, I was pretty skeptical about it A: working to get the case out, and B: the stem and die surviving the attempt.
It worked like a charm, and I'm still using the same die and stem today.
david12601
Gold $$ Contributor
They replaced mine .....a friend borrowed mine returned it to me ........put back on shelf ......2 months later I was going to use it.......could not loosen nut called Lee and they said send it in.....1 week later they sent a new die.......I do not lend my dies anymore
You don't need to remove the split nut on a Lee die if you use this: Frankford Arsenal Platinum Series Stuck Case Remover
Product #: 251956
Manufacturer #: 1078192
But I don't use it as the directions say!
I remove the die from the press, retain the stop nut on the die. I thread a 7/8 nut on the die. Add a bushing sized to reach the bottom of the die. Attach the stuck case remover, crank the Allen screw real tight. Place the assembly in a vice and use the 7/8 nut to pull the case out of the die. In other words turn the nut counter clockwise, the stuck case should gradually be pulled from the die with no damage to the die.
If you need a picture I can mock up the setup and show how it works.
Paul
Product #: 251956
Manufacturer #: 1078192
But I don't use it as the directions say!
I remove the die from the press, retain the stop nut on the die. I thread a 7/8 nut on the die. Add a bushing sized to reach the bottom of the die. Attach the stuck case remover, crank the Allen screw real tight. Place the assembly in a vice and use the 7/8 nut to pull the case out of the die. In other words turn the nut counter clockwise, the stuck case should gradually be pulled from the die with no damage to the die.
If you need a picture I can mock up the setup and show how it works.
Paul
If the freezer doesn't work, try heating it up.
Not cherry red under a blowtorch hot, just a gas flame on the die body around the nut for about 10 seconds or so. The idea is to get the die body very hot, but the nut not so much, so the thermal expansion difference will help disassembly.
Not cherry red under a blowtorch hot, just a gas flame on the die body around the nut for about 10 seconds or so. The idea is to get the die body very hot, but the nut not so much, so the thermal expansion difference will help disassembly.
I place stuck die in my sonic cleaner to remove any micro dirt which may a secondary cause to the stiction.
Put the flats of the body of the die in the vise NOT the top nut. Then apply force to the top nut. Be sure to pause a few seconds to be certain you are going to turn the nut in the correct direction. It helps to use a cheater. I stuck a case once and occasionally you need to disassemble a die to clean it. But you have to like the "hammer on the rod" feature to pop out the stuck case.
Might be the worse choice in a wrench in this situation. (And many other). Open end wrench use is when you can’t get a a six flat box end or a socket on it.
I’m not familiar with the die in your situation but I sure am familiar with tools.
If it’s what I think a six flat box wrench and speed. Same if a six flat socket will fit. Violent fast yank.
DShortt
Gold $$ Contributor
For those unfamiliar, the Lee die uses a decapping pin held in place by an elongated top nut which has slots cut in the lower end to use a compression fit to keep the decapping pin in place. The idea is if there's a problem, a berdan primer case for example, the decapping pin will slip up rather than break.
Finding the proper amount of torque to apply to the retaining nut assembly is the problem.
Many over-torque the retaining nut. Then when it needs to be removed for whatever reason, it's another problem.
A sharp blow isn't going to do it. It's more like loosening tapered pipe threads.
Finding the proper amount of torque to apply to the retaining nut assembly is the problem.
Many over-torque the retaining nut. Then when it needs to be removed for whatever reason, it's another problem.
A sharp blow isn't going to do it. It's more like loosening tapered pipe threads.
DShortt
Gold $$ Contributor
Kinda depends on who tightened it and under what conditions.
I've seen guys who given a pile of sand, a crowbar and an hour, an interesting event occurs. The sand will be gone and the crowbar will be bent.
I don't have any idea how they do it. I don't want to know. I just avoid those guys.
Crimped primer pockets comes to mind.....
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