Fellow told me these where great dies anyone try them or any feedback would be nice.H ecllaims no runout and little case trimming needed.
Lee Collet Die ???
- Thread starter manitou210
- Start date
Forum Boss
Administrator
They produce very straight ammo and are inexpensive.
However, some examples we've seen need to be deburred and polished a bit on the inside. You also need to lube the fingers so they don't "grab",see arrows). You don't have much control over tension, but Lee will produce mandrels in different diams on request. Here's a report in our recent BLOG:
http://www.6mmbr.citymaker.com/6BRBlog.html
RELOADING--Tips for Using a Lee Collet Die: For those who prefer to neck-size their brass,rather than full-length-size), the Lee Collet Die is a popular, inexpensive option. It works by having collet tangs or "fingers" press the neck against a central mandrel. The benefit is that you get a very straight neck, which is sized consistently from top to bottom. However, some users have complained that the Collet Die grabs the case-neck too firmly, making the case hard to remove. There is a solution to this problem. First inspect the collet fingers and smooth the inner surface up a bit with polishing compond or an extra-fine sanding pad. Second, you can open up the fingers a little bit. Lee recommends that if your Collet Die is sticking, take a steel punch and tap the fingers apart a little bit so that the natural "unloaded" position is wider. Lastly, you should lightly lubricate the outside of the collet fingers,see arrows) before you re-assemble the die. This will ensure they slide smoothly. Also, to prevent the collet fingers from closing too tight, never load up the die with your press without putting a case in place first. Without a case neck between the collet fingers and the mandrel, the collet can clamp itself too tight as you raise the ram.
However, some examples we've seen need to be deburred and polished a bit on the inside. You also need to lube the fingers so they don't "grab",see arrows). You don't have much control over tension, but Lee will produce mandrels in different diams on request. Here's a report in our recent BLOG:
http://www.6mmbr.citymaker.com/6BRBlog.html
RELOADING--Tips for Using a Lee Collet Die: For those who prefer to neck-size their brass,rather than full-length-size), the Lee Collet Die is a popular, inexpensive option. It works by having collet tangs or "fingers" press the neck against a central mandrel. The benefit is that you get a very straight neck, which is sized consistently from top to bottom. However, some users have complained that the Collet Die grabs the case-neck too firmly, making the case hard to remove. There is a solution to this problem. First inspect the collet fingers and smooth the inner surface up a bit with polishing compond or an extra-fine sanding pad. Second, you can open up the fingers a little bit. Lee recommends that if your Collet Die is sticking, take a steel punch and tap the fingers apart a little bit so that the natural "unloaded" position is wider. Lastly, you should lightly lubricate the outside of the collet fingers,see arrows) before you re-assemble the die. This will ensure they slide smoothly. Also, to prevent the collet fingers from closing too tight, never load up the die with your press without putting a case in place first. Without a case neck between the collet fingers and the mandrel, the collet can clamp itself too tight as you raise the ram.
I've been using the Lee Deluxe set that has the full length die & the collet die as well plus a shellholder. No complaints at all. I've got RCBS & Hornady dies that I don't use anymore.
Mine are in .223, .243, .308.
Mine are in .223, .243, .308.
I purchased a 6PPC collet die to use with my 6BR but found it didn't size the whole neck. It left a slight bell at the mouth on my Lapua brass.
I then popped for a "custom made" set for my brass and bullets. IMO, this is the only way to go. I have new found respect for the Lee collet dies. They are a must have just for the fact that you don't have to use any lube at all.
One thing that you have to remember is not to put too much pressure on the press handle. The directions say 25 pounds pressure is all you need to size the case neck. That doesn't mean 25 pounds on the handle. 25 pounds on the handle equates to about 600 pounds at the die with the presses leverage system. That is possibly the reason you're marking up the necks. Don't adjust the die so that the press cams over. I set the die so that when you run the case in the die the handle only goes down about halfway and then just bump the handle. No problems.
I then popped for a "custom made" set for my brass and bullets. IMO, this is the only way to go. I have new found respect for the Lee collet dies. They are a must have just for the fact that you don't have to use any lube at all.
One thing that you have to remember is not to put too much pressure on the press handle. The directions say 25 pounds pressure is all you need to size the case neck. That doesn't mean 25 pounds on the handle. 25 pounds on the handle equates to about 600 pounds at the die with the presses leverage system. That is possibly the reason you're marking up the necks. Don't adjust the die so that the press cams over. I set the die so that when you run the case in the die the handle only goes down about halfway and then just bump the handle. No problems.
Case neck lenghtening does occur with the collet die. I'm currently,actually taking a break from resizing right now)experimenting with how much force to apply to the press handle. I've found that if you press quite hard on the handle, the neck will stretch .004 to .005 and the case neck,inside) will be .3045. If I use less force, the neck will stretch .015 to .025 and the inside of the case neck will be .305. I just drilled a hole in the handle and installed an eye bolt in the hole. I'm going to hang progressively heavier dumbell weights from the handle until I achieve minimal neck stretching with a case neck i.d. of .305 to .306. I'm not sure how practical this is as I assume different weights will be required depending on the brand/lot of brass and how work hardened it is.
With a Co-Ax press I set the tension, by adjusting the die up or down, to be where I want it when the handle hits the stops. I could put 200 or 20 lbs of pressure on the handle and it’ll make no difference to the die or case. As long as it's hitting the stops. Couldn’t you do pretty much the same with a regular press?
Upgrades & Donations
This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.
Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.
You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.
To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.
Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.
You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.
To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.