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Lee Collet Crimp die

jghoghunter

Gold $$ Contributor
Anyone use a collet crimp die on their hunting ammo? I was wondering if groups improve with bullets like the Barnes that like to be jump a lot.
 
Crimp or no-crimp debates tend to show that this works for some folks and not for others and more importantly that only a test in your own context will answer the question.

One thing I will have to admit, is that with Barnes copper solids, testing the deeper seating tends to pay off.
YMMV
 
Just to be clear are you saying deeper into the case or closer to the lands?
More jump, deeper into the case. The vast majority of times, this is a hunting topic and the crimp wasn't as productive as seating depth tests. (I will say that some of the best ELR bullets are lathe turned solids, but that isn't what I am discussing here.)

I cannot explain why, but it has been near universal for so many guns and calibers I start seating tests with any reasonable speed and then I check for charge weight.

The OP's focus was crimp v no-crimp, so I don't want to derail his thread with the Barnes topic. I'll keep it short.

Long ago, I was forced to deal with a "Condor no-lead" zone that covered much of the best wild pig hunting zones in CA. This was forced on me and several of us had to change to these Barnes bullets.

Regardless of what the biologists found with respect to Condor blood lead levels, the CA politicians later expanded those rules to the whole state.

All of which is a long way to say that another wave of friends and club mates asked for help developing a copper solid recipe. Those were the days of paper targets and so I don't have an easy way to share the typical improvement.

Only further things worth sharing is to watch for the twist rates as these are long for their weight. We didn't do this for fun, but the last thing you want to do is go after a wounded big in thick cover. Keep the rookies from trying for hero shots and stalk in closer.

After a while, I stopped asking "why" and just cranked through the work letting the target do the talking.
 
Also make sure your barrel is fairly clean. Copper bullets do not like a fouled bore. Seating deeper is increasing the initial pressure spike. Crimping can do the same thing. Just don't crimp if there is not a crimp grove.
 
Most of the popular copper solids such as the Barnes, have a bearing surface design that features several deep grooves that can accommodate a crimp if desired.

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Theoretically there's three reasons to crimp.
1) Revolvers, to prevent bullets jumping forward
2) Tubular magazines, magazines in general, to prevent bullets being pushed into the case.
3) Semi-Autos to facilitate feeding. Taper crimp in pistols.

Lee has been marketing their "Factory Crimp Die" for years. IIRC Sierra advertised not to use it on their bullets. I am not a big fan of the "factory/collet crimp" because imo, it ruins the case mouth.

Most of you are more sophisticated shooters and reloaders than I am, but it seems to me that standard rifle dies would provide sufficient crimp. I slightly crimp my loads mainly because I use the Lyman "M" die.

The only Barnes bullets I have used was for the 348 WCF, and I'm not a hunter, but imo hunting ammo should be crimped.

I just looked and I do have two Lee Factory Crimp Dies, 23-35 WCF, and .32 Remington and cannot remember why I bought them.
 
Ok, the grooves on mono bullets are NOT crimp grooves!!
They are to allow the displacement of copper when the bullet meets the rifling.

And we are talking about a taper crimp, not a roll crimp.
Crimp grooves are not necessary.
 
The groves are actually meant to reduce bearing surface. If they are not there you will run into pressure issues as the bullet has way more surface acting like a much heavier bullet.
 

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