I purchased a CZ 452 for competition second hand and took it home to clean it. The barrel would only let my jag/brush get halfway down the barrel. Is the barrel extra tight? Leaded up? Should I just leave it alone and keep shooting it? Good product to remove lead in Rimfires? Excuse my questions, I am new to the rimfire game and only used them to shoot rabbits and squirrels before. Most experience is in centerfire benchrest.
Leaded up CZ 452?
- Thread starter the long shot
- Start date
I think you have a problem. And I wouldn't shoot it again until I resolved it. My CZ 455 has no problem allowing a cleaning rod, with jag or brush, to go all the way through. Do you know anyone with a bore scope so you can see what is going on?
There was a new product for removing lead from barrels on the Bulletin page the other day. You might want to check it out.
Cort
There was a new product for removing lead from barrels on the Bulletin page the other day. You might want to check it out.
Cort
hogpatrol
Gold $$ Contributor
I've bought four new CZs 17 rimfires. Every one had some type of stubborn gunk preservative in the barrel that took a lot of work to remove before firing. I hope whoever bought it new cleaned it well before firing it. Definitely DO NOT shoot it until you find the problem.
The problem is more likely to be the rod dragging on the ejector than a leaded bore. This a problem that exists on all CZ452's. I use a bore guide and a .20 cal. carbon fiber rod with an adapter to allow use of .22 rod tips & brushes. Some people remove the ejector to clean, or use a bore snake, weedeater line+patch or Otis flexible tool instead of a rod.
I have 2 452's, a Silhouette and a full stock, and had to do a major bore cleaning on both when they were new. I don't know whatinhell CZ uses as a bore preservative, but it's tenacious to say the least. I started with Kroil bore cleaner (a penetrating oil), ran a couple of wet patches thru the bore &let it soak for a half hour or so. A dry patch or 2, then some Shooters Choice to finish. It takes some effort. FWIW, I've never found leading to be a problem with these rifles. They are great shooters.
I have 2 452's, a Silhouette and a full stock, and had to do a major bore cleaning on both when they were new. I don't know whatinhell CZ uses as a bore preservative, but it's tenacious to say the least. I started with Kroil bore cleaner (a penetrating oil), ran a couple of wet patches thru the bore &let it soak for a half hour or so. A dry patch or 2, then some Shooters Choice to finish. It takes some effort. FWIW, I've never found leading to be a problem with these rifles. They are great shooters.
Mine will not accept a 22 cal. cleaning rod. When I called the CZ rep they told me to use a 20 cal rod. The reason they gave me was that their 22 rimfires are bored tight for better accuracy! I was fairly angry about it - asked why didn't they warn the owner by stating that in the owner's manual before I tried pushing a 22 cal rod down the bore! They offered no answer.
Mine leads really bad in the throat area after about 50 round causing first shot flyers after the barrel is allowed to cool to the point where the lead hardens. There's been a lot written about this with CZs, go to the Rimfirecentral web site for more info if yours develops this problem. I used their recommended "fix" and it works somewhat but is a pain in the *** to do.
Mine is so bad that I can't trust it to hunt with which was the reason I purchased it. I now use it only as a "practice rifle."
I'm considering a 17 HMR for a small game hunting rifle which I understands does not suffer the "first shot flyer" problem.
Mine leads really bad in the throat area after about 50 round causing first shot flyers after the barrel is allowed to cool to the point where the lead hardens. There's been a lot written about this with CZs, go to the Rimfirecentral web site for more info if yours develops this problem. I used their recommended "fix" and it works somewhat but is a pain in the *** to do.
Mine is so bad that I can't trust it to hunt with which was the reason I purchased it. I now use it only as a "practice rifle."
I'm considering a 17 HMR for a small game hunting rifle which I understands does not suffer the "first shot flyer" problem.
The 452's and 455's have hammer forged barrels and get profiled on the exterior after the forging process.
The removal of material off the outside will cause internal released stresses in the metal to slightly shrink the bore. Cut or buttoned rifles will grow in bore size from the same process. The CZ mothership obviously thinks this slightly restricted bore is a good thing, otherwise they would increase the size of their forming mandrel to compensate.
Either way, most rimfire bores are about .221-.222" in size on the groove diameter. Every CZ rimfire I have ever slugged measures in at .220-.2205". The latest 455's have a nice pinch right at the muzzle of an additional 1 or 2 tenths. A couple thou reduction in bore size will certainly tighten up on an already snug patch on a jagg...the OP's experiences are not that unusual.
There are some good lead removal cloths out there but several of them will destroy good bluing so be careful how you use them. There is also a type a scouring pad material being sold now that won't harm the bore, similar to Chore Boy. This quickly removes excess lead fouling.
The removal of material off the outside will cause internal released stresses in the metal to slightly shrink the bore. Cut or buttoned rifles will grow in bore size from the same process. The CZ mothership obviously thinks this slightly restricted bore is a good thing, otherwise they would increase the size of their forming mandrel to compensate.
Either way, most rimfire bores are about .221-.222" in size on the groove diameter. Every CZ rimfire I have ever slugged measures in at .220-.2205". The latest 455's have a nice pinch right at the muzzle of an additional 1 or 2 tenths. A couple thou reduction in bore size will certainly tighten up on an already snug patch on a jagg...the OP's experiences are not that unusual.
There are some good lead removal cloths out there but several of them will destroy good bluing so be careful how you use them. There is also a type a scouring pad material being sold now that won't harm the bore, similar to Chore Boy. This quickly removes excess lead fouling.
Lesloan said:
Jags for rimfire 22 can be a few thousandths of an inch smaller sometimes...(the bore sizes differ a touch like this too). Usually it doesnt matter but if you have a tight fitting patch to begin with it can become real tight from that small of a difference. CZ's are typically a bit tighter bore than most rimfires I see and can have issues with a CF 22 jag.
Yup, 22 rimfire is smaller than centerfire and 22 airgun is smaller than both of those. Best 2 methods to remove lead: Kroil and heat. Soak the bore down with kroil and let soak for 12-24 hours, brush and patch clean. Repeat till the patches come out lead free. If it is really nasty and you don't wanna wait, you can heat the barrel over an electric range eye and bounce the end of the bore on a wooden block. Only heat enough to get the lead to release. If you start bouncing shot out of the barrel, you went just a lil too far.
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