Hey guys. I have an old lathe abd the precision is past bad as far as I am concerned. I only use it for tinkering. I want to get it setup correctly and I could use some pointers. The first thing Id like to fix is that the tailstock does not line up in the center of the turning piece, it off, im guessing atleast .025". Is there normally an adjustment for this? and then how would go about setting it up perfectly center?
Lathe Help-tailstock adjustment
- Thread starter robbor
- Start date
It was to the left I guess,back of the lathe). I yanked the tail stock off today and cleaned it good with a razor blade. There were 2 adjustment screws to lacate and keep firm. I put 2 centers in the lathe and lined them up by eyeball and it is much better. Still have more checks and adjustment to make. I will have to fine a lathe setup web page. I turned a pillar and played with the knurler. The lathe is still not great but alot better not having the tailstock off by almost 1/16". Then I chucked up the alum and thencentered it and drilled it the whole was off center. So then I had to turn the outside as I was not planning to have to. So Im guessing the chuck is badly worn or something. I do know its tough to just slap round stock in a chuck and have it centered perfect.
Another method, though not as precise;
Get a test indicator and a magnetic mount.
Attach it to the headstock chuck so that th echuck can turn a full revolution without it hitting anything.
Slide and lock the tailstock, with a center in it, over to the headstock to a point where you can get the indicator to revolve around the center when you rotate the chuck.
With this setup, you can get the tailstock dialed in very close without making any cuts.
Of course, if your ways are perfectly true and the headstock is perfectly square to the ways.......this should put you dead-on.
But then.....are any of our machines THAT good?
Get a test indicator and a magnetic mount.
Attach it to the headstock chuck so that th echuck can turn a full revolution without it hitting anything.
Slide and lock the tailstock, with a center in it, over to the headstock to a point where you can get the indicator to revolve around the center when you rotate the chuck.
With this setup, you can get the tailstock dialed in very close without making any cuts.
Of course, if your ways are perfectly true and the headstock is perfectly square to the ways.......this should put you dead-on.
But then.....are any of our machines THAT good?
I apologize that I am late in on this thread. I just recently found this site!
In order to align your tailstock accurately, you need to cut a test bar between centers. You can actually put a center in your three-jaw chuck, set the compound to cut it at 60 degrees, and then use the live center in the tailstock to mount a bar between the two. This shows a center mounted in a three-jaw chuck:
The center cut this way will be dead accurate as long as you don't take it out of the chuck or remove the chuck. A bar of whatever length you have on hand is then swung between centers, driven with a lathe dog. I have one about 30" long that I use. Take a cut on each end of the bar. Measure the diameters with a micrometer. If the tailstock end is smaller than the headstock end, you have to move the tailstock away from the tool. Loosen the offside set screw and tighten the screw nearest the operator. Repeat cutting and measuring until you have removed the difference in headstock and tailstock bar diameter.
Good luck!
Bill
In order to align your tailstock accurately, you need to cut a test bar between centers. You can actually put a center in your three-jaw chuck, set the compound to cut it at 60 degrees, and then use the live center in the tailstock to mount a bar between the two. This shows a center mounted in a three-jaw chuck:
The center cut this way will be dead accurate as long as you don't take it out of the chuck or remove the chuck. A bar of whatever length you have on hand is then swung between centers, driven with a lathe dog. I have one about 30" long that I use. Take a cut on each end of the bar. Measure the diameters with a micrometer. If the tailstock end is smaller than the headstock end, you have to move the tailstock away from the tool. Loosen the offside set screw and tighten the screw nearest the operator. Repeat cutting and measuring until you have removed the difference in headstock and tailstock bar diameter.
Good luck!
Bill
What bill said is the right way.
I have a Delta/Rockwell 10" and I just went through it. My Tailstock has 3 lines on it and I adjusted to the center. I then did a eye adjustment by pitting a Center in my Chuck and a live center in my Tail Stock. I then moved the T/S to the chuck and see if the points lined up.
This gave me a reference to start. I then set a Bar between Centers. You should also put a Dial indicator to the Dead center in the Chuck. Check the run-out and see if all is ok. If you are going to use a Self centering 3 jaw chuck I still would do it.
If all is ok go ahead and turn the bar down and follow above suggestions.
I am waiting for a Independent 4 jaw I just bought. I just set up a Phase 2 system and bought all the stuff I need through Enco. I had someone make me a Steady rest and I need to make a spider. Mine is a Through hole and I am getting ready to chamber my first 308 barrel.
I have been practicing cutting threads with a regular tool post and tool bits. I am really bad making those little suckers except for a threading cutter bit.
Good luck it is really lots of fun once you get set up.
I have a Delta/Rockwell 10" and I just went through it. My Tailstock has 3 lines on it and I adjusted to the center. I then did a eye adjustment by pitting a Center in my Chuck and a live center in my Tail Stock. I then moved the T/S to the chuck and see if the points lined up.
This gave me a reference to start. I then set a Bar between Centers. You should also put a Dial indicator to the Dead center in the Chuck. Check the run-out and see if all is ok. If you are going to use a Self centering 3 jaw chuck I still would do it.
If all is ok go ahead and turn the bar down and follow above suggestions.
I am waiting for a Independent 4 jaw I just bought. I just set up a Phase 2 system and bought all the stuff I need through Enco. I had someone make me a Steady rest and I need to make a spider. Mine is a Through hole and I am getting ready to chamber my first 308 barrel.
I have been practicing cutting threads with a regular tool post and tool bits. I am really bad making those little suckers except for a threading cutter bit.
Good luck it is really lots of fun once you get set up.
hi bill as give you the best advice i work for a company the make lathe,Colchester) and we rottenly use this method. taper of 10microns over 150mm is a good standard for general work.
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