or perhaps lose a couple fingers.
On my Remington 700, I threaded on a new to me (take off barrel) 300 RUM Christensen Arms CF. I think the barrel came off a Christensen Arms rifle originally ( Ridgeline perhaps?).
Hand tight, on a .190" lug, the bolt closes on a GO gauge. Oddly enough, sometimes with no resistance at all, sometimes a little. Ejector and striker are removed. Makes me wonder if I should get the action trued up.
Torqued down with a vise and action wrench, barrel rotated maybe a 1/32 of a turn passed hand tight, it barely doesn't close on the GO gauge now.
However, bolt closes with zero resistance on new Norma brass.
Supposing I never intended to shoot factory ammo, is there any reason I can't just roll with?
Also wondering if some light lug lapping might get me to close on that GO gauge. Based on wear marks, I don't believe the lug engagement to be even.
Checking bolt nose clearance tonight.
Flamesuit donned.
On my Remington 700, I threaded on a new to me (take off barrel) 300 RUM Christensen Arms CF. I think the barrel came off a Christensen Arms rifle originally ( Ridgeline perhaps?).
Hand tight, on a .190" lug, the bolt closes on a GO gauge. Oddly enough, sometimes with no resistance at all, sometimes a little. Ejector and striker are removed. Makes me wonder if I should get the action trued up.
Torqued down with a vise and action wrench, barrel rotated maybe a 1/32 of a turn passed hand tight, it barely doesn't close on the GO gauge now.
However, bolt closes with zero resistance on new Norma brass.
Supposing I never intended to shoot factory ammo, is there any reason I can't just roll with?
Also wondering if some light lug lapping might get me to close on that GO gauge. Based on wear marks, I don't believe the lug engagement to be even.
Checking bolt nose clearance tonight.
Flamesuit donned.