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Lapua & Norma Brass

New to Lapua & Norma brass for reloading. Can I hear some feedback on what to expect from them, good, bad ugly if any. All replys welcome.
 
Only use Lapua (6.5x55) ... consistent weights & spec. 1 batch on 10th reload and looking good.
Now just open the box, run them over the expander die, check for daylight at both ends: load and shoot.
 
I like both.
Norma is more consistent, but for some reason Norma primer pockets open a little sooner than Lapua. It's like Norma is softer, but seemingly only w/regard to pockets.
 
Iv used Norma brass in cases like 22-250 ack 220 swift 243w 308w 300 WM 257 weatherby Mag and 270 w…. Over the last 28 years and well before Lapua was prominent.

Both are top choices and ‘maybe’ Lapua is a little harder but lapua it not available in many cartridges. Primer pockets will open up on any brass, It just depends how much pressure you run!

Over pressures on any brass will give you short case life, and ultimately ruin it.
I have had 10 reloads from 257 wby Norma cases with full powder loads, and this cartridge runs some pretty stout pressures.

The other consideration is price…. Lapua for the price is excellent value for money, and I have plenty sitting on my shelf. If only they made more of a range of cartridge....... LIKE 300 WIN MAG "Hint" "Hint".
 
I agree that Norma is getting underrated. It is a bit softer but I find it very consistent and use it for match loads as well as Lapua. I find the Norma does not really need to be annealed whereas Lapua needs it every forth firing or so (have had consistent neck cracks with Lapua .243 after four firings without annealing).
Just my experience.
 
I use Lapua in 4 different rifles, and love it for its uniformity, I don't believe Norma gives up very much either, I am using Norma brass in 2 hi intensity calibers (Swift and 6AI) and it holds up very well also. You can't go wrong. When I am contemplating a new build now, I go and look at the offerings from both and decide from there. Win and Rem brass are too much work and time to make them work well. I want to be shooting, not working at the reload bench.

Frank
 
For a target rifle....use Lapua if its available in your caliber, if not use Norma, if its not avail in your caliber, rechamber or rebarrel the rifle in a caliber that is available.

Ben
 
All I can say is that I have some new 300 WSM Norma brass that I will sell to anyone that enjoys 2 different sizes in the same lot. Soft, & crummy QC. Not even a close 2nd to Lapua.
A third of them won't even slide into the shellholder. At $1+ ea? ???
 
Larryh128 said:
A third of them won't even slide into the shellholder. At $1+ ea? ???

I have some Lapua .243 Win brass like that. Normally Lapua is good but I will not buy any more Lapua .243 Brass.

James
 
Larry & James lead to a good point; It can depend on cartridge and lots for a particular cartridge.
There is just no way to assume that brand selection alone has REALLY provided for you. You should measure and verify your brass no matter the brand or past findings.
I've seen both good & 'less good' from both Lapua/Norma from lot to lot in 223, 243(for 6xc), 6xc, & 6br. These brands are my standard, and I'm used to their qualities. But a while back I took on culling of Winchestor WSSM reloading brass, and although thick beyond sanity, it measured more consistent in thickness than Lapua, and even Norma. I would never have predicted that, as I know other cartridges in Win brass are horrible.
 
I am an accuracy freak and shoot only paper these days. Since starting to reload my own ammo approximately 3 years ago, I used and tested several brands of brass. I have come to use nothing but Lapua brass because I've found it to be the most consistent and long lasting brass regardless of caliber. Now I might add as has been suggested by others, do not ASSUME that the name means absolute consistency each and every time. Therefore, if you seek ultimate accuracy, you must check the measurements of your brass including weighing the brass once prepped. I even take all new Lapua and make sure the length is all alike even to the .001th length. It is that consistency plus removing as many variables as humanly possible that gives you that "ultimate accuracy." To give you an idea of durability, I have two sets of Lapua Brass (35 casings and 38 casings) for my 6mmbr. The first group is on it's 17th reload and the second on it's 14th reload. My rifle as a tight chamber and I've only had to bump a couple of the shoulders once on the first group and no bumps on the 2nd group. Neither group has ever seen an FL die. SO I guess depending on how much effort you want to put into brass preparation, I'm sticking with the Lapua because it just seems to keep coming back for more unlike other brass I've used in the past 50+ yrs of shooting all different calibers of rifles.
 
James,

Sorry to hear that you've had issues with the 243 brass, but we'll be more than happy to make it right if there's a problem. Before you send it back, though, I would mention that there is always the possibility that a different shell holder would cure the problem entirely. While most people look at the cases first, it's worth remembering that tolerances apply to all of the components used in the reloading process. This includes shell holders. I keep a supply on hand here in the office to check such complaints, and you might be surprised how much difference there is between the "same" shell holders, even of the same make.

Drop me a PM and we'll take care of it for you one way or another.
 
Hi Kevin....good to see you respond to te above shooters problem brass....I think Lapua is missing a market opportunity and need to manufacture 300 win.--300/375 H&H ---and 300 WSM !!!! this is a niche in the shooting world that needs some GOOD brass....please help up if you can....Thank YOU...Roger

PS,,,I forgot ...6mmRem or the old standby *7 X 57 * which can be made into 6mm Rem/257 Roberts --6.5x57 etc.....
 
Kevin, I was wondering why the 6 BR brass keeps getting shorter? I had to shorten my chambers up to use it. 1.555 and under seems to be what we are getting now. To form a Dasher case is tuff.......jim
 
Larryh128 said:
A third of them won't even slide into the shellholder. At $1+ ea? ???

I had that issue with Lapua 6BR. It turned out that my Lyman shell holder was off spec, and the problem was solved with a new $2 Lee shell holder.
 
Ron,,,I agree on the Lee shellholders....they work good and are cheepppp.....I like the way the ctg. is ramped into the rim area of the tool....makes the process go smoother....can do it with your eyes closed...haahha...Roger
PS...the reason a lot of necks (no matter what brand) are splitting is the chambers are too big ..casusing un-necessary work hardning of the brass....toooo much clearance. I have Lapua .243 brass that has been loaded 40+ times ....and never anealed ...no problems....and some Win. brass with just as good of results...in .243 dont run more than a .275 ND....most load at .272
 

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