laminated stock glue
- Thread starter ppaul
- Start date
Thicker laminations can be done with confidence using many readily available products like Titebond II or GorillaGlue. I've used both over the years with solid maple, oak or walnut. Surfaces to be joined should be faced smooth-sawn or if possible, machined planed smooth. (Some may have the skills to plane long, wide boards truly flat! I've done it but much prefer using my 10" jointer instead.)
Getting laminates thinner than 1/4" to glue successfully needs both careful surface prep and a means to evenly distribute pressures sufficient to keep everything straight, flat, and tight until glue's fully cured.
Commercial laminate blanks typically are glued up in molds that enable curing glue with RF radiation - microwaves if you will - or other means by which speedier results can be had.
Then there's a whole range of two-part epoxys out there now for all kinds of uses, boat building among them. One advantage they have is they will effectively fill gaps with no loss of strength. Another is they can be augmented with various fillers to change their working properties as needed, such as adding graphite powder where surfaces are to be self-lubricating, or aluminum powder for durability. Wood dust or what's referred to a microbaloons (hollow, phenolic particles) are used to add volume for mixes requiring greater mass while reducing the amount of epoxy needed, which reduces weight. This can be useful when bonding surfaces that aren't ad flat as what other adhesives may demand.
I've used epoxy for outdoor wood projects with great results for years, wouldn't hesitate using something like West System or MAS for laminating blanks at home.
Getting laminates thinner than 1/4" to glue successfully needs both careful surface prep and a means to evenly distribute pressures sufficient to keep everything straight, flat, and tight until glue's fully cured.
Commercial laminate blanks typically are glued up in molds that enable curing glue with RF radiation - microwaves if you will - or other means by which speedier results can be had.
Then there's a whole range of two-part epoxys out there now for all kinds of uses, boat building among them. One advantage they have is they will effectively fill gaps with no loss of strength. Another is they can be augmented with various fillers to change their working properties as needed, such as adding graphite powder where surfaces are to be self-lubricating, or aluminum powder for durability. Wood dust or what's referred to a microbaloons (hollow, phenolic particles) are used to add volume for mixes requiring greater mass while reducing the amount of epoxy needed, which reduces weight. This can be useful when bonding surfaces that aren't ad flat as what other adhesives may demand.
I've used epoxy for outdoor wood projects with great results for years, wouldn't hesitate using something like West System or MAS for laminating blanks at home.
Upgrades & Donations
This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.
Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.
You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.
To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.
Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.
You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.
To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.