lake city brass?

[Rem06]

well,i will find out? i sent josh11 a MO for the brass.I do like the LC brass and my last lot is wearing out.The reason i asked about the crimp and decapping and reaming is,my last lot of brass all came from Black Hills remanufactured (blue box) and some of the primers that i set in were harder (like the crimp was still partially there?)
I use a forster press and die set and have had no problems punching the primers,i have a .30 cal punch for the .30-06 cases but not for .223.I think i am ok on removing the primer but not the crimp.
I do think i will need a .223 crimp reamer though? Does anybody have one they are not using or recomend one?

 

[infantrytrophy]

...Does anybody have one they are not using or recomend one? ...

Rem06,

Many people will recommend a Dillon swager, but this tool is very expensive. I have used the Lyman Primer Pocket Reamer and the Forster deburring tool successfully. The Lyman tool "stops" and reams only a certain amount around the edge of the primer pocket. It is usually enough, but not always. The Forster deburring tool will ream a 45 degree "chamfer" around the edge of the primer pocket. It works well, but you have to use your judgement to cut to the correct depth. Both of these work best when connected to a power screwdriver.
Links:
http://www.lymanproducts.com/lyman/case-prep/primer-pocket-reamer.php
http://www.forsterproducts.com/store.asp?pid=24829
Randy Sikes

 

[necchi]

Cheapest way is to go to the hardware and get a countersink like this;
http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=metal+countersink+drill+bit&oe=UTF-8&cid=7167350234769848191&ei=wOvJS9m_N4ncNZL3mRw&sa=title&ved=0CCAQ8wIwBTgA#p

and as said just a light touch till you find what you need to remove,. Tuff part is holding the small case, I made a holder, 1x2 cedar,,3/8 hole

I use the RCBS tool and put it in the drill press running slow,,common mistake is to not get the case square or inline with the bit.
Taking out too little is better than too much IMHO, if the primer goes in a bit hard the first time after reaming it's OK, it'll be better the second time. A proper reamed case is in my previous photo.
In the picture is the Lyman bit, I didn't like it becasue it goes all the way into the pocket, I wrecked some cases because it reamed the sides too big. (operator malfuntion) the counter sink types are user friendly.

 

[navyrad8r]

REM,
try the hornady primer pocke reamer. you can take just the "bit" and chuck it into a drill or use the handle with it. also the replacement bit can be bought seperately. check out midway and when you but the handle/bit combo, buy one extra bit. they are really sharp, and last quite awhile.

 

[ForneyRider]

I decap with Lee universal decapper and use the RCBS die to ream the pocket.

If you do mass amounts, I would get the Dillon tool or something faster as the RCBS is slow.

LC brass is excellent. It is as accurate as RemChester/FC/Hornady/WCC stuff.

 

[rpl6cm]

What about Lake City 7.62 "match" brass. I have 1500rds fired once. It's my understanding this brass has a regular primer pocket, thus you just pop the primer and uniform after sizing. Anybody want to input on this. I was planning to keep it for a 260AI build.

 

[fivering]

Lake City Match brass does NOT have crimped primer pockets, in this respect it is like commercial brass.
Many times military brass may be a little heavier than commercial brass, so you should probably work your loads up to maximum from a little lower starting point than usual.
With as much brass as you have, after sizing and uniforming, if you sorted your cases by weight, you should be able to develop some very good match ammunition.

 

[Rustystud]

In years past I have bought used military brass for as little as (.14) fourteen cents per pound. Yes, some of it was LC match 7.62, some was Federal 300 Win mag, some .223 some 9mm and some 45 acp. They sold it sorted in 55 gallon barrels.
Those were the days
Nat Lambeth

 

[navyrad8r]

+1 what five ring said.
I went with a .260 (not AI) because i shoot and have SO much .308 the some of the older lake city (good stuff) has tick marks or knurling on it about 1/3 up the case from the head. this was the LC match stuff that had 168SMK's in it. PRIME M1 Garand food!! Start your load a good full grain lower with the LC brass since it is so thick and has less internal case capcity to avoid pressure probs. taking LC .308 to .260 is not so bad but the neck turning has to be done and it is a chore compared to other commercial brass choices. set your turner for the commercial brass and then switch to one LC case and give it a whirl.... i did the other way around turned LC brass and then kept settings the same on some Hornady match. Much easier with non LC. but i bet the LC gets more reloads. good luck to you with the .260ai

 

[tnhunter]

I just got some 223 lc 08 brass for 7o dollars 1000. i ended up having little over 1100 in the box though. i am happy with it. shoots good but requires lots of prep work. I wont to get some 308 lc brass (match) anyone know where i can get a 1000 or so dirt cheep. The way i am getting the 223 brass is from a friend of a friend.

 

[stanlyonjr]

I shoot service rifle matches and use LC brass all the time because it tough and inexpensive. I buy it in boxes of 1000 at a time and process as needed. I remove the crimp, uniform the primer pocket, ream the flash hole to make sure there all are uniform and debur the flash hole on the inside. It seems like alot of work but I end up with good brass thats usable for 6 to 8 reloads. If you don't already have a Wilson case gauge do yourself a favor and get one. Your reloading life will be made much easier.

Aim for the X

Stan

 

[Cheechako]

Kind of late now, but the right hand case in the photograph on page 1 is the standard 5.56x45mm NATO. Lake City '08. The "dots" around the lettering are marks made by high speed machinery and are there to identify the particular machine that made the cartridge in the event a glitch occurs and they have to go back, identify the machine that malfunctioned, and correct it.

Ray