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Kodiak barrel fit trouble

joshb

Gold $$ Contributor
I got a Kodiak action a while ago. It came with a 30X51 HBR Krieger barrel. I just picked up a used Krieger 30br barrel that came off a Panda. The original barrel easily screws in, all the way to shoulder contact. The 30br barrel screws in , then gets tight and too hard to turn when the shoulder is about 3/8 of an inch away from the action. I scrubbed the action threads(gently) with acetone and a stainless brush, but the barrel still stops at 3/8 off. I'm just using hand pressure. I was thinking of using the vice and wrench and "force it in" but thought I'd check here for some wisdom. I used my Mitutoyo calipers to check the outside thread diameter and it's right at spec and matches the original barrel. Any thoughts and advice would be appreciated. Josh.
 
Josh,

Do not force it. The thread pitch is probably a little big. I would take to your Smith and have him check the threads with wires or a thread pitch mic . May need to have a little taken off to fit your receiver. I cannot stress enough to not force it, as you will most likely gall the threads in the action. And then you will really have a problem on your hands.

Paul

www.boltfluting.com
 
Do not do it. You are lucky that you have not galled the threads. There are a couple of options. Neither involves what you described. Are the tenon lengths the same for both barrels?
 
After 30 years in the building industry and growing up on a farm, my first instinct is to "get a bigger wrench". Glad I fought that urge. Guess the jeweler's file idea is out, too. I'm slowly learning this stuff. Thanks for the answers, guys. I was hoping to get off cheap.
I guess my next question is: if this barrel came off a Panda, why won't it fit my Kodiak? Crystal ball guesses?
Just very minor tolerance differences?
The previous owner "got a bigger wrench?"
Just trying to learn something, here.

Thanks again, Josh.
PS. Boyd- the tenon lengths measure the same, using my "crude tools and methods."
 
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The difference may be "stacking tolerances", one is at the top end the other at the bottom enc of the tolerance scale. I needs to be put in a lathe and the barrel threads fitted to the action. Where are you at, or you could ship it.

Jim
Member ACGG
 
Josh, you need to quit trying to figure this out and get it to a gunsmith, let him teach you the problems after he has determined Waz UP!

If you could take pictures along with measurements and post them here, you could get an answer, but then you still would not be able to fix the problem.

Ante up to the pot if you are going to play this hand.
 
I hear you, guys. I had some time yesterday, to fool with my "new/used barrel", so I'm just getting started on this. I'm trying to learn a little over my morning coffee. What the machinist guys do has always intrigued me. If my shop wasn't filled with wood and I was younger, I might have given it a shot. That "stacking tolerances" theory is understandable. Thanks for that input. I'm a curious guy. I'll have to get this off to somebody. Josh
 
This is one of the outcomes when you fit threads with zero clearance. A little taper here, a little taper there and then you have issues.
 
Lap it. Works every time, without having to set up and chase existing threads. If still too tight, polish the crown of the threads down a tad ( .001" or .002") in the lathe. Try these before re-cutting with a single point tool.
 
The problem with lapping is you are removing material, however slight, fro bot the male and female thread making the action fit the originally tight one and loose on the other. But, that don't amount to a hill of beans.
 
Lap it. Works every time, without having to set up and chase existing threads. If still too tight, polish the crown of the threads down a tad ( .001" or .002") in the lathe. Try these before re-cutting with a single point tool.

If the threads won't fit now how is it going to fit with lapping compound on it?
 
Well all I know is if you can't spin it on by hand it costs a bunch to get it off at the smith , s and redo barrel AND receiver.
 
If the threads won't fit now how is it going to fit with lapping compound on it?
First, I am assuming both actions are the same thread. He said it goes almost on, just 3/8" shy. It's almost there. Bet I could lap it in faster than you can type a reply. ;)
When a 98 Mauser comes into my shop along with a "pre-fit" barrel that wont screw on all the way, I lap them in. Why screw around with a $125 tap from Brownells that has a hard time cutting through a Mauser case hardening, and will more likely chip the tap than cut the receiver? Or take a ton of time chasing the threads? Now, a Panda or a Kodiak aint a military 98, but it's not a rocket ship either.
 
Apples and oranges. Hunting rifles typicaly have barrels changed when they wear out. Benchrest shooters swap barrels around fairly often for many reasons. Personally, I would not want to alter the threads of one of my my custom benchrest actions by lapping, particularly since I usually have more than one barrel for each action, and change them from time to time. I would stick to altering barrels to fit.
 
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