Km neck turner?s

[Just Dave]

On this same subject, does anybody use the "donut cutter" carbide bits ? In place of the standard mandrel ?

 

[Brians356]

. But it's too dam big to hold unto for very long. At one point, I used monster-sized worm-gear clamps to secure it to the leg of my workbench, then rigged a simple foot-pedal out of wood to pull the trigger./ Problem there is you are feeding the cutter into the case, Which is at a fixed position, I have found better results if both the driver, and the cutter "float" in your hands

Battery-powered drills do have one advantage - they can be self-standing. Here's my setup for the Hornady lathe. I mounted it at the proper level to dock with the drill hands-free.

The slight "float" between driver and cutter comes from inserting a rubber gasket between the cutter body and the lathe fixture, as shown in this post:

http://forum.accurateshooter.com/th...ck-turning-lathe.3891366/page-2#post-36730171

You can experiment with gasket stiffness. Mine is firm enough to resist squishing overmuch when tightening things up, yet does allow the cutter body to pivot slightly with, what, two degrees of freedom?


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[rardoin]

On this same subject, does anybody use the "donut cutter" carbide bits ? In place of the standard mandrel ?

I have both. I will use the cutting mandrel on cases that have formed a donut, or internal ridge of brass near the base of the neck. It can score the inside of the neck a little if not careful with initial insertion but I have found it to be only a cosmetic issue.

 

[Fotheringill]

Lots of things feel better at 25 than 70.

 

[tenring]

I suggest getting the 'Ergo Holder'. It serves as a comfortable handle to hold the pilot/cutter assembly and also acts as a heat sink.

IMO, the ERGO holder is not good. I get inconsistent cuttings with it.

After using K&M neck turning tools for many years, this year I switched to the PMA. I love it. I only wish the hash marks were numbered so that I could return to the same exact spot with each new brass of same thickness.

 

[Brians356]

IMO, the ERGO holder is not good. I get inconsistent cuttings with it.

After using K&M neck turning tools for many years, this year I switched to the PMA. I love it. I only wish the hash marks were numbered so that I could return to the same exact spot with each new brass of same thickness.

Not knowing how the hash marks are formed, you might could use an extra-sharp colored Sharpie to put some colored ink in/on selected hash marks.

On older Vari-X Leupold scopes, after adjusting AO parallax-free for a particular yardage (100, 200 etc.) I took a fine-edged jeweler's file and scraped a tiny notch through the black finish on the AO bell in line with the indicator hash mark on the scope body, to indicate "true" 100, 200, etc. The factory yardage markings on the AO bells of those scopes were laughably useless, not even close.
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[Brians356]

Today only, and only a few hours left:

http://www.brownells.com/reloading/...4OUtEdUVHU1pFdUNXa1NYXC9HcDByQkdGa0o4MEMrUSJ9
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[seymour fish]

Lots of things feel better at 25 than 70.

Or just as good, briefly

 

[P1ZombieKiller]

 

[Toejoe12]

Get the Hitachi D10VH drill. It has an adjustable wheel to control the speed and it works sweeet. I simply mounted mine to my bench. Set the speed I want and then control the on/off with a foot pedal switch. I got the drill (3 of them) from Amazon. Around $35 each if I remember correctly. Don't remember where I got the foot switch but, they are readily available. No more cramped up fingers trying to maintain a steady speed!

+1 Same set up I use and it's great. Foot pedal from Harbor Frieght around $12