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Kahles K1050 vs Schmidt & Bender 12-50x56 PM II/P

Wow!!! Who'da thunk it. Much appreciated. Maybe i'll order a large wheel for my new 1060HM
Apologies for polutting this thread, but just to make sure you get the right items, read on.

This is the website :
https://marchscopes.com/accessories/

For the HM 10-60X56 you need two pieces. The middle focus wheel that is appropriate for your focus knob; the DB-340-0 if it's not illuminated or the DB-342-0 if your reticle is illuminated. Then you select the large wheel that you want. They have one that is 3.5 inch in diameter DB-343-0 and another tgat is 4.5 inch in diameter, DB-402-0. I have the larger one, which has worked great for me. I have arthritis in my left hand and this wheel allows me to focus easily and with surgical precision. For my next March, I'm getting the 3.5 inch one so that I can compare the use, for me. If you think either one is still too large, you can stop with the middle focus wheel, which will be bigger than the regular knob.
 
Thank you for that. will do. Have you tried the honeycomb hood? I have been thinking of this for time of day when the sun is about 20 to 60 degrees off axis (10 to 2 oclock lateral and 10 to 11:30 high as a means of dealing with that light that bounces in off the interior walls of a sunshade.
 
Thank you for that. will do. Have you tried the honeycomb hood? I have been thinking of this for time of day when the sun is about 20 to 60 degrees off axis (10 to 2 oclock lateral and 10 to 11:30 high as a means of dealing with that light that bounces in off the interior walls of a sunshade.
I have not tried the ARD, I have no need for it. A regular sunshade works just fine for me. I have never heard of someone complaining about stray light that bounces off the interior walls of a sunshade. A properly designed sunshade has a very matte interior to prevent this and if you look closely at the ones provided by March, you will notice they are textured inside, to further alleviate this issue.

All the sunshades I have ever used or seen for camera lenses or riflescope have always had a very matte and many times textured interior.

An ARD is designed to prevent the objective lens from reflecting in the sun and thus giving away your position. That's never been an issue of concern for me; I never cared if the targets could see me.

Also, an ARD by its very design, robs you of some light, probably a half stop. A sunshade does not do that.

ARD: Anti Reflective Device.
 
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The sunshade on my Kahles 1050MOAK is textured but not flat. I have put black felt on the inside surface.
I'm surprised that Kahles is not using flat black paint on the inside of their sunshades, pretty much all the sunshades I've ever seen for quality optics (lenses or scopes) are painted flat black, not a glossy black.

I would hate to put anything like felt inside a sunshade, I do have to shoot in the rain sometimes, and the last thing I would want in my riflescope is a mold culture.

You can get flat black enamel paint from a hobby store. Look in the plastic model section. You can even get it in a spray can; use masking tape and for God's sake, remove the sunshade from the riflescope before spraying paint on the inside of it.:D
 
You can get flat black enamel paint from a hobby store. Look in the plastic model section. You can even get it in a spray can; use masking tape and for God's sake, remove the sunshade from the riflescope before spraying paint on the inside of it.:D

naw, just leave it on the scope. Any overspray on the lens can be easily removed with some 80 grit sandpaper and a little elbow grease :D
 
Hey my thread was revived!

I've only ever found the distances written on a parallax to be an estimate, and should never be trusted. Judge based upon your eyes.

I'm noticing that the Khales is a true 5x scope, as it goes from 10-50.
The S&B feels like a 4x, as it goes from 12-50. (48x would be 4x)

Has anybody missed the 10x-12x range not being available on the S&B?
the eye relief plus the soft rubber diopter ring that makes a soft landing on your forehead on those rare occasions when you do get whacked by the scope
How much extra eye relief is there? Have you shot the S&B, and found it to be "not enough"?
My number one like for the Kahles is I can trust the tracking. Number two is the parallax adjustment.
Are you saying you can't trust the tracking on the S&B? And you don't like the parallax adjustment on the S&B? Have you used both?
 
Umm...not sure how i managed to imply anything negative about the S&B. I have never owned one and I have no opinions of them at all. As to the Kahles, the eye relief is, i believe, 98mm or about 4 inches. When i mentioned the fact that the diopter ring is rubber and that it would save you a nasty ding if you were, say, shooting free recoil and left too much room between stock and shoulder, I was speaking from experience. I appreciate the rubber. Not saying that S&B does not have this as I do not know. And I was not saying that S&B does not have a great parallax adjustment. I have no idea. what I was saying was that the Kahles would be great if it marked 900 and 1000 Meters, and, as Turbulent Turtle explained, due to the math of the parallax optics, there is just not enough room on the ring for those markings..... Happy New Year.
 
I'm surprised that Kahles is not using flat black paint on the inside of their sunshades, pretty much all the sunshades I've ever seen for quality optics (lenses or scopes) are painted flat black, not a glossy black.

I would hate to put anything like felt inside a sunshade, I do have to shoot in the rain sometimes, and the last thing I would want in my riflescope is a mold culture.

You can get flat black enamel paint from a hobby store. Look in the plastic model section. You can even get it in a spray can; use masking tape and for God's sake, remove the sunshade from the riflescope before spraying paint on the inside of it.:D

Not gloss but certainly not matte. I have plenty of 80 grit paper and a great sander. Thanks
 
The big S&B Competition scope (‘13, only owner) has never made me question whether adjustments took. Faultless tracking and that matters if you make an adjustment in the string. If the impact didn’t change accordingly you know with certainty it was the wind.

I use several other scopes I’m less confident about. As pointed out, it’s heavy.

It’s also better than you need with etargets. (As with my stranded Kowa). We all have exactly the same “scope” now, the screen a foot away from us. Now you merely need to estimate fourths of the black rings.

I haven’t seen this scope deeply discounted like some other 3k + scopes. I’m not selling mine, but I have to think anyone who might sell a scope that varies new by as much as 40% or so (my big March) isn’t getting close to all of that back.
 
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Umm...not sure how i managed to imply anything negative about the S&B. I have never owned one and I have no opinions of them at all. As to the Kahles, the eye relief is, i believe, 98mm or about 4 inches. When i mentioned the fact that the diopter ring is rubber and that it would save you a nasty ding if you were, say, shooting free recoil and left too much room between stock and shoulder, I was speaking from experience. I appreciate the rubber. Not saying that S&B does not have this as I do not know. And I was not saying that S&B does not have a great parallax adjustment. I have no idea. what I was saying was that the Kahles would be great if it marked 900 and 1000 Meters, and, as Turbulent Turtle explained, due to the math of the parallax optics, there is just not enough room on the ring for those markings..... Happy New Year.
Thanks for the clarification.
 
Thanks for the clarification.
Brand new to this site so here goes. I own the Kahles and like it for clarity and reticle. However I need to stay very aware when shooting free recoil even with 6x47 Lapua or the diopter ring just kisses my eyebrow. Just my two cents for what it's worth.
 

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