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K&m Neck Turner Problem

SS pins for cleaning in tumbler. I would suggest you try putting a light chamfer on the inside of a couple of the necks before trying them on the turning tool.
Many times I see badly peened case mouths after SS media is employed. That would cause the issue you are having.

Yes i did champfer the mouths before trying...
 
I wish there was a way to get consistent results using torch or other method without investing a few hundred bucks in a machine. New brass is only 23ish bucks for a bag, so that couple hundred bucks would buy alot of new brass.
 
I wish there was a way to get consistent results using torch or other method without investing a few hundred bucks in a machine. New brass is only 23ish bucks for a bag, so that couple hundred bucks would buy alot of new brass.
Well you have a point but I have almost 50 reloads on my Peterson 308 brass no splits and primer pockets still tight. Try to get that with Lapua. You can get by for hundred bucks without the tank and regulator. http://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/any-diy-annealer-machines-better-than-this-one.3900614/
 
I wish there was a way to get consistent results using torch or other method without investing a few hundred bucks in a machine. New brass is only 23ish bucks for a bag, so that couple hundred bucks would buy alot of new brass.
Get a torch and practice. All it will cost is a cheap propane torch and a few pieces of brass. Keep the heat low. I have about 1/2" - 3/4" of flame. .308 brass takes about 7 seconds and .223 about 5 seconds. The necks should not turn bright red.
 
Get a torch and practice. All it will cost is a cheap propane torch and a few pieces of brass. Keep the heat low. I have about 1/2" - 3/4" of flame. .308 brass takes about 7 seconds and .223 about 5 seconds. The necks should not turn bright red.

Accidentally hit the Post button.

Get a torch and practice. All it will cost is a cheap propane torch and a few pieces of brass. Keep the heat low. I have about 1/2" - 3/4" of flame. .308 brass takes about 7 seconds and .223 about 5 seconds. The necks should not turn bright red, at the most a dull glow.

I put the flame on the back end of the neck where it joins the shoulder and it wraps around the neck. Heat only on the neck can't dissipate quickly and the shoulder also needs to be annealed. The heat ring shouldn't go any lower than this. (The black mark was a 450° temp crayon when I was learning to see if the heat went too far down the body.) I use a deep well socket just a little larger than the case and an adapter that fits a drill and spin them slowly. If you try this take a couple and over cook them to see what happens. Some I could smash in my fingers. Once they are over annealed, they are junk. With a little practice you will be able to get every case to look the same. I also like to cool them in water but it really doesn't matter. Water will not make brass hard or brittle. NEVER heat any ways near the case head or let it get too hot past 1/4 down the body. Take an annealed case and a regular one and gently squeeze the necks with pliers to see if they have softened. You should easily be able to tell the difference. If this doesn't work for you, you'll have very little expense in it.

Annealin.jpg
 
Had similar problem. Chucked it up in my drill and used emery cloth to remove just a pinch. Works just fine for me.
 
Accidentally hit the Post button.

Get a torch and practice. All it will cost is a cheap propane torch and a few pieces of brass. Keep the heat low. I have about 1/2" - 3/4" of flame. .308 brass takes about 7 seconds and .223 about 5 seconds. The necks should not turn bright red, at the most a dull glow.

I put the flame on the back end of the neck where it joins the shoulder and it wraps around the neck. Heat only on the neck can't dissipate quickly and the shoulder also needs to be annealed. The heat ring shouldn't go any lower than this. (The black mark was a 450° temp crayon when I was learning to see if the heat went too far down the body.) I use a deep well socket just a little larger than the case and an adapter that fits a drill and spin them slowly. If you try this take a couple and over cook them to see what happens. Some I could smash in my fingers. Once they are over annealed, they are junk. With a little practice you will be able to get every case to look the same. I also like to cool them in water but it really doesn't matter. Water will not make brass hard or brittle. NEVER heat any ways near the case head or let it get too hot past 1/4 down the body. Take an annealed case and a regular one and gently squeeze the necks with pliers to see if they have softened. You should easily be able to tell the difference. If this doesn't work for you, you'll have very little expense in it.

View attachment 1154797
I learned a useful technique several years ago that may help with the slight learning curve on the above good method of annealing. I use a hand held propane torch with shell holder & a slow screw driver. Darken the room and watch for the color change in the brass (JUST beginning to look red). Playing around with several expendable pieces of brass and also purposely over annealing 1 or 2 is a great learning experience. It doesn't take long to get good consistency.
 

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