just starting out, planning to reload .308

[cw308]

30+ years ago I also picked out the single stage RCBS RockChucker Supreme . It is still the only press I use , I am also into 308 benchrest shooting . Started out with the 308 Full Size RCBS 3 DIE SET , tried neck sizing , went back to full , tried Redding S Type bushing dies but again went back to the standard RCBS full length sizing die . After all this time what I found what works best is in dies , the RCBS standard Full size die , tRedding Competition Seating Die , Redding Competition Shellholders set of 5 , RCBS RAM PRIMER , Wet tumbler with Stainless Steel Pins . CCI BR primers .IMR 4064 powder 168gr. Sierra HPBT MK ( MatchKing ) bullets . For measuring case headspace and base to ogive measurements , the RCBS Precision Mic caliber specific , worked much better the then all the others . Having more the one load book , I have Lyman ,Sierra , Speer and Lee . I have tried all the tools in finding my chamber measurenent , what I found worked best for me . A Go Gauge with shims to place at the back of the Go Gauge and install in your chamber and close bolt . Once you know the measurement , check in the Precision Mic , record that measurement for sizing your case head space . I also found the closed bolt method works best for finding your bolt face to ogive ( rifling ) measurement so you can find what works best in your rifle a jump , just touching or jamming your bullets. You can see the method on on line videos . Hopefully I Helped in some way .

PS also a uniformer for uniforming your primer pockets to the same depth , makes priming trouble , only has to be uniformed once , a flashholes deburred to clean up the flash holes .

Chris

 

[SGK]

Descression is the better part of valor. I agree with playing it safe.

Just for me i have learned that where i want to be is near max for my rifle. I usually start midpoint or a little higher than that. Hate wasting a lot of components in the range i never want to be. Not a max guy at all. Too hard on brass. But i want to know where max is for that barrel.

Here is another load data link by hogdon. Maybe their load data can set your mind at ease

https://www.hodgdonreloading.com

Yeah and Sierra have 43.5 gr as max. for the 168 gr HPBT that Hodgdon has 46 for. In other words, they're all over the map. So the message really should be "learn to read signs of excess pressure early." I'm still tip-toeing... (maybe I should load another three at 44.1gr as well for my next trip to the range)

 

[DeltaWhiskey64068]

30+ years ago I also picked out the single stage RCBS RockChucker Supreme . It is still the only press I use , I am also into 308 benchrest shooting . Started out with the 308 Full Size RCBS 3 DIE SET , tried neck sizing , went back to full , tried Redding S Type bushing dies but again went back to the standard RCBS full length sizing die . After all this time what I found what works best is in dies , the RCBS standard Full size die , tRedding Competition Seating Die , Redding Competition Shellholders set of 5 , RCBS RAM PRIMER , Wet tumbler with Stainless Steel Pins . CCI BR primers .IMR 4064 powder 168gr. Sierra HPBT MK ( MatchKing ) bullets . For measuring case headspace and base to ogive measurements , the RCBS Precision Mic caliber specific , worked much better the then all the others . Having more the one load book , I have Lyman ,Sierra , Speer and Lee . I have tried all the tools in finding my chamber measurenent , what I found worked best for me . A Go Gauge with shims to place at the back of the Go Gauge and install in your chamber and close bolt . Once you know the measurement , check in the Precision Mic , record that measurement for sizing your case head space . I also found the closed bolt method works best for finding your bolt face to ogive ( rifling ) measurement so you can find what works best in your rifle a jump , just touching or jamming your bullets. You can see the method on on line videos . Hopefully I Helped in some way .

PS also a uniformer for uniforming your primer pockets to the same depth , makes priming trouble , only has to be uniformed once , a flashholes deburred to clean up the flash holes .

Chris

Great information. Thank you!

 

[DennisH]

is the better part of valor. I agree with playing it safe.

Just for me i have learned that where i want to be is near max for my rifle. I usually start midpoint or a little higher than that. Hate wasting a lot of components in the range i never want to be. Not a max guy at all. Too hard on brass. But i want to know where max is for that barrel.

Here is another load data link by hogdon. Maybe their load data can set your mind at ease

https://www.hodgdonreloading.com

FWIW: I have seen people put some unbelievable loads of Varget in their 308 rounds. I will not post the amount as it would blow up most of my 308's.

I have used a little more vs. what some have stated earlier, but they were very hot loads, plus the brass only lasted about 7 or 8 rounds vs. 15.

EVERY RIFLE/Barrel is different.

It's always best to start off low just to see what your rifle likes.

I have dialed in many rifles. What works in some might be too hot for others, JMO.

 

[cw308]

DW
Glad I could help.

 

[JFrank]

So I made an investment in a Bergara B-14 HMR 20" .308 1:10 twist and I want to learn reloading. Not new to firearms, but definitely new to reloading. My goal would be to successfully hand load match grade rounds. I want this to be a slow methodical approach to get each round as close to identical as possible. Based on much research, I have decided on a Rockchucker Supreme single stage press. I found the press only for $115.00 new in box locally, or Optics planet has the supreme reloading kit for $294.29 shipped. I am unsure if the components in the kit are worth the extra money, or if I should build the kit based on suggestions to help reach the stated goal. I have the Lyman 50th manual arriving today. Thanks for your input!

Welcome to the forum, definitely buy the press”
Then ask first on the remaining tools. In the meanwhile indeed fed gold medal match Ammo 168 gr will serve you well. Be sure to save the brass in separate lots.

You’ll be surprised how few tools you really need to make good ammunition.

Hand tools trump power tools almost always.

Vintage beam scales are extremely accurate as well.

( I do like my little RCBS prep center with the spinning brushes , just don’t tell anyone)

 

[Mr.Knowit all]

My advice would be NOT to overcomplicate things. Buy a powder dispenser, I have had great luck with my Lyman then I use a Dillion scale to double check weights. Get a good chronology if you can. I use them to find an optimum loads and watch when my SDs. I like Magnetospeed. JMO.
Once you become more familiar then start complicating things. lol
Good luck

 

[cw308]

As for powder scale , I use the RCBS ChargeMster 1500 , you can load as a example 41.5 but you could be just at the .5 low side or at the high side , so I double check with the GemPro 250 scale I can load to a exact 41.54 .I like to try and be as close to exact as possible , each grain of IMR 4064 is .02 . My not be necessary to go to that extreme but that's just me , I shoot 30 rounds per range trip. Would be time consuming if I shot quantity.

 

[manitou210]

Good load for short range

 

[DennisH]

Good load for short range

Great Group!

Did you chrono the "speeds"? I would be interested in knowing. (or did I miss it)

Also, FWIW, I was dialing in a load for one of my rifles. I found a sweet spot @ 40 grains of powder, then found another one @ 43.3 grains, same powder. My groups opened up inbetween the two charges. (NOT A 308)

Has anyone else ran into this? NO pressure signs, tightness, or anything to mention. Both loads were on the money, but the 43.3 charge was pushing the pill a little faster.

 

[Rdlningcltchdmpr]

Not much point trying to find a match grade load for a rifle with a 20" barrel but having said that it's not at all hard to make better rounds that can be bought even with cheap brass and bullets.
For such a rifle I'd focus on cheap 130 or 150 gr hunting bullets as either has the capability to shoot well and deal to all but the biggest of deer at extended ranges. If you do your bit close to 1/2" groups is quite possible. Varget (ADI 2208) for powder.

This made me angry ! Barrel length is not tied to accuracy ! Many wining rifle's have short fat barrel's. Most hunting bullets cannot compete with match bullets. It is easy to get superb accuracy far exceededing factory crap. 112 grain bib Bullets, 118 bib, 115 berger, 125 berger, 125 sierra. These will make one's or two's easy in this gun.

 

[AJC]

This made me angry ! Barrel length is not tied to accuracy ! Many wining rifle's have short fat barrel's. Most hunting bullets cannot compete with match bullets. It is easy to get superb accuracy far exceededing factory crap. 112 grain bib Bullets, 118 bib, 115 berger, 125 berger, 125 sierra. These will make one's or two's easy in this gun.

This is something I have questioned before. There is a company that upgrades mini 14s and only guaranteed accuracy with a 24" barrel. I thought that was total bs.

 

[Don_Parsons]

Yuppers,,, get the rifle planted on a good rest,,, make up some good loads to test,,, and wait for a calm day to shoot a ladder test...

You'll be styling in no time at all.

 

[cw308]

DeltaWiskey
I forgot to ask are you reloading for benchrest shooting , hunting or both . If Benchrest I would load one at a time and getting a single shot follower for the magazine . If not then you are limited to the length of your magazine . The triggers on those rifles are around 2 lbs., Barrels are well made , if you do your part in reloading , no shortcuts , you will be a happy camper . Great choice in rifle and caliber .
PS: Two bullets to try Sierra 168gr. HPBT MatchKing and the Hornady A-Max 168gr Match . With your twist you can go heavier , no harm in starting with 168 . When I first started out I started with mid range on book powder scale , as an example 41.5 with the Sierra 168 and IMR 4064 , after playing around with different charges and lengths , my favorite is 40.8 grains of IMR 4064 under a 168 gr Sierra or A Max just .002 off the rifling . It's a low charge but gives me a consistent .5 10 shot group at 200 yards . Never liked the need for speed but I only shoot at 200 yards . Hope I Helped ., Again nice choice in rifle .
Chris

 

[manitou210]

Great Group!

Did you chrono the "speeds"? I would be interested in knowing. (or did I miss it)

Also, FWIW, I was dialing in a load for one of my rifles. I found a sweet spot @ 40 grains of powder, then found another one @ 43.3 grains, same powder. My groups opened up inbetween the two charges. (NOT A 308)

Has anyone else ran into this? NO pressure signs, tightness, or anything to mention. Both loads were on the money, but the 43.3 charge was pushing the pill a little faster.

If I remember correctly just 2400 fps

 

[DeltaWhiskey64068]

This made me angry ! Barrel length is not tied to accuracy ! Many wining rifle's have short fat barrel's. Most hunting bullets cannot compete with match bullets. It is easy to get superb accuracy far exceededing factory crap. 112 grain bib Bullets, 118 bib, 115 berger, 125 berger, 125 sierra. These will make one's or two's easy in this gun.

That sounds very encouraging!

 

[DeltaWhiskey64068]

DeltaWiskey
I forgot to ask are you reloading for benchrest shooting , hunting or both . If Benchrest I would load one at a time and getting a single shot follower for the magazine . If not then you are limited to the length of your magazine . The triggers on those rifles are around 2 lbs., Barrels are well made , if you do your part in reloading , no shortcuts , you will be a happy camper . Great choice in rifle and caliber .
PS: Two bullets to try Sierra 168gr. HPBT MatchKing and the Hornady A-Max 168gr Match . With your twist you can go heavier , no harm in starting with 168 . When I first started out I started with mid range on book powder scale , as an example 41.5 with the Sierra 168 and IMR 4064 , after playing around with different charges and lengths , my favorite is 40.8 grains of IMR 4064 under a 168 gr Sierra or A Max just .002 off the rifling . It's a low charge but gives me a consistent .5 10 shot group at 200 yards . Never liked the need for speed but I only shoot at 200 yards . Hope I Helped ., Again nice choice in rifle .
Chris

Thank you for the kind words, I doubt this will ever be used to hunt (unless a shtf situation arises). Nearby ranges are 100-400y, couple hour drive there’s 100-1000y. Long term goal is to reach 1000y with this rifle.

 

[cw308]

DW6406
I shoot only benchrest , rear bag and Harris fixed Bi Pod. 100 - 400 is a nice distance , you may have to load alittle hotter then me for the 400 yards , in the neighborhood of 41.5 - 42.0 is the go to load . I favor the 20" barrel find them more ridgid less wip tack drivers all the way . I have a muzzle brake on mine makes shooting a pleasure , that's why it's my one and only . I don't even have that itch in looking for another. Let us know how your reloads are going , Start out at 100 Im sure you know but had to ask . When groupings are tight at 100 , go to 200., its a different ball game . Wish I could go longer but would turn into a overnighter , nothing in my area longer then 200 even at 200 it's a 1 hour trip one way . Great Sport , great group of guys l shoot with . Maybe this Sunday weather permitting will be my first time out this season . Be Well .

Chris

 

[dhamby]

I’m not going to clutter up with opinions of what brands of tools to buy as each person has their preference but I’ll do my best to list the equipment I feel needed in your situation.
1-press
2-dies(full length sizer and seater) with appropriate shell holder
3-case trimmer
4-case debut and chamfer tools
5-primer pocket cleaner
6-reloading case tray
7-case lube
8-calipers
9-powder scale
10-powder thrower/drop
11-powder trickler
12-reloading manual
13-priming tool
I feel these are essential tools to get you started and are many good options from several brands. Also stay away from cheap electronics scales. If you want electronic look at options over $100, under that stick with a beam scale. Personally a consistent powder charge makes the biggest difference in your ammo.

Some nice extras are:
-quick change die bushing for single stage presses
-powered case prep center
-case tumbler to clean brass
- Auto powder dispensers
-case and bullet comparators
-concentricity gauges
-neck turning tools
Just to name some common ones.

 

[Whisky Tahoe Foxtrot]

I’m not going to clutter up with opinions of what brands of tools to buy as each person has their preference but I’ll do my best to list the equipment I feel needed in your situation.
1-press
2-dies(full length sizer and seater) with appropriate shell holder
3-case trimmer
4-case debut and chamfer tools
5-primer pocket cleaner
6-reloading case tray
7-case lube
8-calipers
9-powder scale
10-powder thrower/drop
11-powder trickler
12-reloading manual
13-priming tool
I feel these are essential tools to get you started and are many good options from several brands. Also stay away from cheap electronics scales. If you want electronic look at options over $100, under that stick with a beam scale. Personally a consistent powder charge makes the biggest difference in your ammo.

Some nice extras are:
-quick change die bushing for single stage presses
-powered case prep center
-case tumbler to clean brass
- Auto powder dispensers
-case and bullet comparators
-concentricity gauges
-neck turning tools
Just to name some common ones.

Well done on a thorough list. At the risk of triggering brand loyalty discussions, please share your scale recommendation. There is a great article at the accurateshooter.com site for scale/dispenser combos but I haven't found a comparison of just digital scales.