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JB Weld

bench

Can I use JB Weld that is made for steel to repair a broken wooden stock or should I get some JB Weld that is made for wood??
 
What kind of break? Ideally you would want a glue that would soak deeper into the fibers if you were talking about a structural repair.
 
My son triped a broke the stock in half at the hand grip area but it does fit back together very nice.
Also I ordered some threaded pins made for this type of repair from Brownells.
Also these stocks are no longer made so to repair it is what I need to do.
It may not look good but it is only a hunting rifle not a safe queen.
 
+1 for a thinner epoxy for wood repair. Not that JB will not work, thinner stuff will soak in better. If you have a marine supply nearby Git-Rot is the thinnest I know of that I have worked with. West System has one as well. You might consider drilling a hole from the tang area of the stock through the wrist and using your JB to glue in an aluminum rod. Will never break again.
 
bench said:
Can I use JB Weld that is made for steel to repair a broken wooden stock or should I get some JB Weld that is made for wood??
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You should not use JB weld for this repair at all. If the break is what you might call "clean", it will never be as strong as the original, which apparently wasn't all that strong to start with, even if you use the very best epoxy adhesive. If, however, the break is splintered in such a way that it offers a good deal more surface area, you have some hope.

You need a high-quality, low-viscosity, two-part, slow-cure epoxy without any fillers. Small quantities are available at most marine supply stores, but don't cheap out and try this repair with a couple of small tubes of 5 minute epoxy. You will likely be forced to purchase more than you need. Or, you might find a local boat builder or furniture maker who could supply you with a small quantity.

The idea of installing some kind of reinforcing pins or dowels is a good one, the longer the better. It might even be possible to drill from the butt end with a long bit in such a way that you can cross the break line and then install a suitable dowel or perhaps two.

If the break is straight across the smallest part of the stock, you will definitely need some sort of dowel(s) or pin(s) crossing the break and deeply inserted in both parts. If the dowel(s) penetrate a couple of inches into each part, you may realize success in the end. But your workmanship and materials must be first class in order to avoid making a mess of this rather tricky job. Good luck.
 
OK so this is what I am going to do.
1--Use JB Wood weld glue.
2--Drill and place brass threaded rod thru break.

Going to use JB wood weld glue because it is what I have.
Hope it works
 
Actually I'd like to see a picture of the broken area. Is it broke completely in half of just split? I wouldn't use JB. Probably go with something like regular Acra Glass or a very good epoxy. Also you will want to think about how you are going to clamp it together to get the strongest bond.
 
I have built and repaired wooden drift boats and have found West System Epoxy to be the best there is. In addition to the dowels, I'd drill multiple holes (maybe 1/16") in both pieces to give plenty of channels for the epoxy to flow in to. This will increase surface area a bunch. Slow set is the way to go so there is plenty of time for the epoxy to fill all voids.
 
Everyone who mentioned slow set epoxy has the right answer in my opinion. West systems tropical hardener takes a long time to set so it will penetrate pretty deeply. I've even added a tiny bit of acetone to thin the resin a bit more. after I had both side covered well with the thin stuff I would either press and clamp if the break fit back together well or put a thickened paste between the two if it didn't. (Coliodal silica, graphite, microballons etc)
I'm not sure adding pins or drilling holes helps or not. I've done it both ways. The only repair that ever came back in the shop was a pretty little Holland and Holland 20 with a tiny wrist. I wanted to make sure it was perfect so I made an aluminum pin and bedded it well with epoxy. The gun came back that same season only this time it was broken near the end of the pin. I'll just assume that all pf the other repairs are still out there doing there thing :)
One thing to note about drilling the holes is that you can easily make a break that used to fit together well, not fit together anymore. my $.02.
 
bench said:
...... snip.............
Going to use JB wood weld glue because it is what I have.
Hope it works
Click to expand...

If you're going to rely on hope and what you have on hand, how about using spit? It will work about as well as JB Weld 6 minute epoxy.
 
dsandfort said:
I have built and repaired wooden drift boats and have found West System Epoxy to be the best there is. In addition to the dowels, I'd drill multiple holes (maybe 1/16") in both pieces to give plenty of channels for the epoxy to flow in to. This will increase surface area a bunch. Slow set is the way to go so there is plenty of time for the epoxy to fill all voids.
Click to expand...

+1
 
I used Super Glue when I did the same thing. Worked very well and the repair is not noticeable. Make sure you can fit the pieces together easily and on the first try before introducing the glue.
 
I owned a guitar building company and we also did repairs. We used Titebond wood glue exclusively for everything except gluing fingerboards to neck blanks where we used marine epoxy simply because it did not introduce moisture into the neck of the guitar. I can't tell you how many broken headstocks I have re-glued or completely reattached with Titebond and I have never had one come back. Most 6 string guitars will have somewhere in the neighborhood of 100-140 lbs of tension on the neck.
 
magic mike said:
I owned a guitar building company and we also did repairs. We used Titebond wood glue exclusively for everything except gluing fingerboards to neck blanks where we used marine epoxy simply because it did not introduce moisture into the neck of the guitar. I can't tell you how many broken headstocks I have re-glued or completely reattached with Titebond and I have never had one come back. Most 6 string guitars will have somewhere in the neighborhood of 100-140 lbs of tension on the neck.
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Same as with other similar products, there are multiple Titebond flavors with each better suited to certain tasks. Being’s this is a hunting rifle stock so with greater potential of being exposed to the elements, would “Titebond III” be the specific Titebond flavor you’d recommend the OP be on the look for?
 
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