Jb weld in scope base screw holes

[AlNyhus]

Release agent in the mount holes, action threads and a drop of light oil on the screw threads is all I've ever used...no issues on literally dozens of dozens.

The mount mfgs generally give us quality dimensions and profiles. Recievers are the wild cards...especially factory stuff. Bedding marries those profiles and gives maximum contact. The break away force of a rifle even in slick bags can be 9 G's....a couple taps on the calculator will tell you what your scope effectively 'weighs' in that first millisecond before the gun moves rearward.

Maximum contact is a good thing. Ditto with lapping and bedding rings.

Good shootin' -Al

 

[boltfluter]

I had Ken Farrell base once that had a .007 bow in it. It was like a little miniature diving board! That one went back. Lol
Paul

 

[L.Sherm]

I've bedded many a base and ring with J-B weld, like others have said use release agent on the screws and holes.
I've not seen a 700 yet that has had 100% contact or rings for that matter.

 

[Liven The Dream]

Interesting Post..
At 79 and a F/Class ,Match Rifle Shooter with Barnard and Many 700 Actions, Never Bedded one Base.
I have used Lock Tight on Screws.

May just have to read some more ?

 

[AlNyhus]

If a base/rail has been on for a bit, it's easy to see the contact pattern when you remove it.

 

[Longtrain]

Just bedded my rail to my 700 action. I was careful applying the JB Weld to the base around the screw holes and coated the top of the action and screws threads with Kiwi neutral shoe polish. Since my rail fit pretty well, I bedded both ends.

Aligned the rail, screwed it down, after 6 hours I backed out the screws a bit and reset them, no problem. 24 hours later I removed the screws and the rail lifted right off, perfect job. There was a slight amount of JB at the base of the holes, but the Kiwi kept everything ok. Cleaned that up with a drill bit on the bottom side.

 

[RCE1]

Gordy Gritters showed us how to bed a scope rail in this manner. He also pointed out that if a bit of "look down" is desirable in a particular situation, a small piece of shim stock of the appropriate thickness can be added at the back to create that effect. In that case, bedding both ends of the rail is suggested. I had a Savage in my shop with a Picatinny rail showing a visible gap at the back when the front screws were tightened. I bedded the rear with JBWeld to eliminate any tension in the mounting and the owner is very happy with it.

 

[Emmett Dibble]

Plenty of people have offered opinion and manufactures recommendation on the subject. I would add much like Brylcreem, “a little dab will do you”.

Unless the top of your action and or bottom of the scope rail are completely mangled up, once torqued you are dealing with less then a couple square inches at a few thousands deep… that is a very little bit of material. If you are using much more then a pea size amount of (insert your favorite epoxy here) you are using too much. Once torqued all you should need to do is wipe a acetone dipped Qtip around the front and rear pads and if you really want it to look nice to the close observer take a tooth pick and go completely around the joints.

(my opinion, more contact > less contact)

 

[DShortt]

I like full contact on the scope base/action joint. I clean everything well, apply a release agent to the action, apply release agent to the mounting screws and the inside of the base holes only. I apply a minimal amount of epoxy to the base and very gently seat the mounting screws. I remove any excess epoxy with a Q-tip after roughly 10 minutes as mentioned above. 24 hours later, I remove the base, remove any excess epoxy, reapply the base and torque all base screws as recommended.

Since I've started doing this, I've never had a base work loose. Before, it happened several times. So I believe it's well worth the effort.

 

[Gil P.]

I like full contact on the scope base/action joint. I clean everything well, apply a release agent to the action, apply release agent to the mounting screws and the inside of the base holes only. I apply a minimal amount of epoxy to the base and very gently seat the mounting screws. I remove any excess epoxy with a Q-tip after roughly 10 minutes as mentioned above. 24 hours later, I remove the base, remove any excess epoxy, reapply the base and torque all base screws as recommended.

Since I've started doing this, I've never had a base work loose. Before, it happened several times. So I believe it's well worth the effort.

I've had a base work loose after only bedding the rear of the base. I didn't use blue loctite.

This time I'm bedding both the front and rear. It'll fully cured in about 4 hours.

 

[Gil P.]

Well it's bedded. Now I need to try and pop the base off. It's a bit stuck. I applied release agent to the action and the screws came out no problem.

Ill hit it with a piece of wood and see if it comes off.

 

[Webster]

It's cleaned up now. Maybe I used too much? How you you keep the jb weld from seeping up into the screw holes?

I plugged the holes with modeling clay when I did a skim coat. Held the action in the stock with clamps.

 

[ricco1949]

Well it's bedded. Now I need to try and pop the base off. It's a bit stuck. I applied release agent to the action and the screws came out no problem.

Ill hit it with a piece of wood and see if it comes off.

Why break it loose? It's glued and screwed...a best case scenario.

You can break it loose later with an iron if necessary.

 

[Gil P.]

Why break it loose? It's glued and screwed...a best case scenario.

You can break it loose later with an iron if necessary.

I was thinking the same. I cleaned out the wax from screws and screw holes as best I could and put blue loctite on the screws.

 

[Gil P.]

What do you guys think about 8-40 screws on 700 actions? Maybe a moot point if the base is epoxied to the action.

 

[ricco1949]

What do you guys think about 8-40 screws on 700 actions? Maybe a moot point if the base is epoxied to the action.

Last rail I bedded ended up a glue and screw. I unsuccessfully tried Minwax Finishing Wax as a release agent...thought it was Johnson's.

I still added added 1/8 dowel pins to the "belt and suspender" the deal.

I plan to leave 'em glued in the future.

 

[D-4297]

It's cleaned up now. Maybe I used too much? How you you keep the jb weld from seeping up into the screw holes?

Put wax shoe polish in the holes with a small flat knife , and rub the screws in it . Rub the threads with a generous amount of the shoe polish , and screw them into the base . Have been using this technique for JB Weld for years . Works every time .