Italian Olive Wood Gunstock

[CStuck]

This started with my wife dragging me to World Market and while walking around I saw some Olive wood serving boards and thought it seemed like an interesting wood. The grain and the color really peaked my interest. A little reading about olive wood lead me to its Janka Hardness

Olive-1520
Claro Walnut-1130
English Walnut-1220
Maple-1450

Olive seemed to be in the right window for hardness, but having never worked with it I wanted to get a test piece to see. After a little beep booping on the interwebs I found 1 place that had large enough pieces to buy a portion of a slab to craft stock from to test. This piece was imported from Puglia region of Italy, and the gentleman I purchased it from has ties to that region. So I thought that was pretty cool.


This being a bit of an experimental side project I don't know how long it will take me and I'm a bit unsure of how much time I want to put into it.

Here are the two blanks I came up with. The grain flow may not be ideal but I'm not worried about at for now, and the pieces are just at 2" thick which is a tad thin for my preference, but this is just a test.

What do you guys think?





Oh and just for fun the Claro Piece I have been working on

 

[SEM]

That would never see the light of day and would take up 3 places in the safe, Nice

 

[CStuck]

That would never see the light of day and would take up 3 places in the safe, Nice

The Olive or the Claro? Haha

Its no fun it if never gets shot.

Olive isn't bad looking wood for $150 for two blanks

 

[dfrosch]

The Olive or the Claro? Haha

Its no fun it if never gets shot.

Olive isn't bad looking wood for $150 for two blanks

I'd bet that he's talking about the Claro. Kinda feel the same, but might even buy it a new safe.

 

[DGP4]

Olive wood tends to have a lot of oil in it. Was it hard to deal with? Beautiful looking stocks by the way!!!

 

[SEM]

One ding and I would always see it and cuss myself for the lax moment I allowed for it to happen, already been there and done it, I don't know why I revel fine woods as much as I do, I have actually saved for some unknown reason or project a stick of common variety cabinet wood just because of the grain now some 40 years later still right where I put it to save for the perfect fitting project.

 

[rjtfroggy]

Why not use that band saw and cut some thinner slabs from one then laminate them to the sides of the one thick one until you have what you like.

 

[CStuck]

Olive wood tends to have a lot of oil in it. Was it hard to deal with? Beautiful looking stocks by the way!!!

So far I have only cut the blanks out, so I'm not sure what else will be in store for me. The Seller said it had been drying for 3 years so hopefully some of that oil has dried out. We will see.

 

[CStuck]

Why not use that band saw and cut some thinner slabs from one then laminate them to the sides of the one thick one until you have what you like.

I've thought about that, and may do that in the future.

For now I want to see if it will work. The wood may end up being useless, I really dont know
It may have too much oil in it and never really settle.
It could be like hickory and twist and change over time and never been stable.
It could crack and split due to some unknown characteristic of the wood.
Its always new and an exciting learning experience with a new species of wood

 

[Oso]

I have worked with some olive wood on smaller projects, small flatwork and turning. The bottom blank in you r pictures is the nicest with the grain lines running down the length of forearm. Your blanks are fairly straight grain for olive wood.

You need to make sure it is dry. The thing that makes Olive Wood attractive, wavy grain pattern, is also what makes it most challenging. It is prone to warping, twisting and bending like a roller coaster. How was the wood stored for the 3 years and was there a sealant/wax coating on the outside of the blank/slab?

The wood can either be easy to work (consistent density) like working with a decent hardwood or it can be intermittent density (harder and softer) like what you might get with a pine/spruce/cypress. You won't know until you cut into it. Since you'll be using power tools the only time this may come into play is while sanding. Just have to make certain (test and be prepared) that the sander doesn't suddenly take off more wood than expected as you transition into a softer section of the wood.... just test it.

The wood is oily, not as much as a tropical hardwood, but more than the normal varieties of wood used for stocks. Your sandpaper is going to get clogged up a little more and you will just need a little more TLC when it comes time for finishing. You'll want to wipe down the surface with a solvent to remove any excess oil before applying the first coat.

 

[CharlieNC]

Purdy!

 

[CStuck]

I have worked with some olive wood on smaller projects, small flatwork and turning. The bottom blank in you r pictures is the nicest with the grain lines running down the length of forearm. Your blanks are fairly straight grain for olive wood.

You need to make sure it is dry. The thing that makes Olive Wood attractive, wavy grain pattern, is also what makes it most challenging. It is prone to warping, twisting and bending like a roller coaster. How was the wood stored for the 3 years and was there a sealant/wax coating on the outside of the blank/slab?

The wood can either be easy to work (consistent density) like working with a decent hardwood or it can be intermittent density (harder and softer) like what you might get with a pine/spruce/cypress. You won't know until you cut into it. Since you'll be using power tools the only time this may come into play is while sanding. Just have to make certain (test and be prepared) that the sander doesn't suddenly take off more wood than expected as you transition into a softer section of the wood.... just test it.

The wood is oily, not as much as a tropical hardwood, but more than the normal varieties of wood used for stocks. Your sandpaper is going to get clogged up a little more and you will just need a little more TLC when it comes time for finishing. You'll want to wipe down the surface with a solvent to remove any excess oil before applying the first coat.

Thank you very much for the tips! I appreciate it very much.

I really do not know how it was stored before I received it. I was told it was air dried for 3 years and the gentleman was selling entire slabs. He also had pen blanks available, I requested the next time he cuts into a slab to make more pen blanks, if he could cut me out a section with the straighest grain with the most heartwood. Thats what I was shippped.

After I cut the blanks out I tested it with a moisture meter and it read 12%-14% which is higher than the typically pieces I work with but I thought that may be more to the oil than water content. But that just a guess.

I will be cautious when the sanding time comes around and pay attention to the points you make.

 

[Oso]

I think if you want a wider blank then it would look nice with a middle layer (glue-up veneer) of either a contrasting dark wood or something that matches the darker grain. Keep in mind the wood is going to darken as it ages. I would use a ordinary straight grained piece for the backstrap, which will highlight, but not compete against, the beautiful grain of the olive. Cherry or Osage Orange would be a complimentary color.

 

[PRR1957]

I’ve seen some usage of olive wood as a 1/2” or so decorative cap on a mahogany backed body from a couple of boutique electric guitar and electric bass guitar builders. It needs a special type of wood glue formulated for oily woods. For those types in instruments it is a nice tone wood similar in the tone quality of flamed maple.

 

[CStuck]

I’ve seen some usage of olive wood as a 1/2” or so decorative cap on a mahogany backed body from a couple of boutique electric guitar and electric bass guitar builders. It needs a special type of wood glue formulated for oily woods. For those types in instruments it is a nice tone wood similar in the tone quality of flamed maple.

I have some titebond Poly glue on order for this, it appears to be the best at gluing up oily woods.

I think if you want a wider blank then it would look nice with a middle layer (glue-up veneer) of either a contrasting dark wood or something that matches the darker grain. Keep in mind the wood is going to darken as it ages. I would use a ordinary straight grained piece for the backstrap, which will highlight, but not compete against, the beautiful grain of the olive. Cherry or Osage Orange would be a complimentary color.

I believe I will be doing this, I cant decide if I want Cherry or Walnut though, I have both in the shop and may just do one of each, so I can try it on both the blanks.

 

[DGP4]

I wouldn't veneer it. Other than being oily, the wood is very stable and resistant to warping. My grandfather built a dining room table from olive wood that sat for decades in an unheated farmhouse room without any warpage. As to the oil, it is simple enough to seal the wood with shellac before applying the finish.

 

[joshb]

Fantastic job on the Claro stock! Very nice!
Good luck with the Olive. It looks promising. I wouldn’t split it. I’d add to the outside.

 

[Oso]

I wouldn't veneer it. Other than being oily, the wood is very stable and resistant to warping. My grandfather built a dining room table from olive wood that sat for decades in an unheated farmhouse room without any warpage. As to the oil, it is simple enough to seal the wood with shellac before applying the finish.

Once it is dry and the wood has released any internal tension (warping, racking, twisting, etc) then it is stable. Based on the 12%-14% moisture reading then it should be fairly stable at this point. Just leave it in the garage for a couple of months to acclimate. Also, if you are going to veneer (add a middle piece) then split the blanks and let them air dry some more for max acclimation. You have time... there's an ammo shortage.

Wipe it down with lacquer thinner, DNA, or acetone to remove any surface oil before applying your finish. If very oily then shellac as first coat is your friend!

Suggestions/Requests:
1) Shadow line around the cheek rest just like on the Claro Walnut stock... it is elegant!
2) Maybe a delicate schnable fore end... okay doesn't fit a bench gun.... maybe then just a nice end-cap with a matching palm cap!

 

[Brians356]

I’ve seen some usage of olive wood as a 1/2” or so decorative cap on a mahogany backed body from a couple of boutique electric guitar and electric bass guitar builders. It needs a special type of wood glue formulated for oily woods.

Would fish glue work on oily wood like olive?
-

 

[CStuck]

Once it is dry and the wood has released any internal tension (warping, racking, twisting, etc) then it is stable. Based on the 12%-14% moisture reading then it should be fairly stable at this point. Just leave it in the garage for a couple of months to acclimate. Also, if you are going to veneer (add a middle piece) then split the blanks and let them air dry some more for max acclimation. You have time... there's an ammo shortage.

Wipe it down with lacquer thinner, DNA, or acetone to remove any surface oil before applying your finish. If very oily then shellac as first coat is your friend!

Suggestions/Requests:
1) Shadow line around the cheek rest just like on the Claro Walnut stock... it is elegant!
2) Maybe a delicate schnable fore end... okay doesn't fit a bench gun.... maybe then just a nice end-cap with a matching palm cap!

I did split one of the two blanks and cut a piece of walnut to add to the center. I do plan on letting them sit for a while longer to hopefully get that moisture down just a little more.

I have some DNA to wipe down the pieces before glue up as well.


1.) I already had planned to add a cheek piece with shadow line, that's why I wanted a bit thicker piece to work with.

2.) I haven't tried a schnable forend yet, but I have a plan for it as well as the matching grip cap