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Is this the correct steps of accurate reloading?

Funny that you mention wives, mine walked into my reloading room today looked around and said " you know you could probably get rid of a lot of this stuff so you could clean up a little". I promptly asked her to leave my room alone and go back up to her office and practice what she preaches.
 
rjtfroggy said:
Funny that you mention wives, mine walked into my reloading room today looked around and said " you know you could probably get rid of a lot of this stuff so you could clean up a little". I promptly asked her to leave my room alone and go back up to her office and practice what she preaches.
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That was not her way of saying you guys need vacation money?
 
One thing you can always say is - you knew that before you married me !!
 
rjtfroggy said:
Funny that you mention wives, mine walked into my reloading room today looked around and said " you know you could probably get rid of a lot of this stuff so you could clean up a little". I promptly asked her to leave my room alone and go back up to her office and practice what she preaches.
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How did that work out
 
rjtfroggy said:
Funny that you mention wives, mine walked into my reloading room today looked around and said " you know you could probably get rid of a lot of this stuff so you could clean up a little". I promptly asked her to leave my room alone and go back up to her office and practice what she preaches.
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I ask mine to please knock first as I don't no how many times I have had rifles leaning up against the door. Don't need to say any more....lol
 
Dan S said:
So I am going from novice reloading, to try to be a little more advanced. Bought some equipment this week. And I am adding some steps to the process and am confusing myself a little at this point. So I am trying to get the steps in order, and want to be corrected if I am wrong or one of the steps is out of place. The only thing I did not included is weighing brass, primers, bullets. I bought a small jewelers scale of ebay, but realized how inaccurate they are and keep getting out of wack.



Steps as I understand them (lets assume new or 1 time fired brass)


1. Uniform Primer Pockets (First time only)

2. Debur Flash hole if punched, not drilled (First time only)

3. Decap old primers of fired brass (I realize most do this during sizing)

4. Tumble every 3 or 4 time

5. Anneal (I know some don't believe in this, I bought the machine, thus its gonna get used)

6. debur brass (So dont scratch inside of die)

7. lube brass

7. Size Brass

8. Lube expander mandrel???

9. Use expander mandrel (First time only)

10. Neck turn brass (First time only)

11. Resize brass again

12. Trim necks

13. Chamfer necks

14. Point bullets

15. Primer, power and seat bullets




Ok, so I tried to put these in order as I know it, I would love to hear from the benchresters any tips I can be given.


Thanks guys, you all have been great about my never ending questions.
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I put on a pair of thin rubber gloves (sensitive to chems skin), grab a paper towel or two, depending on how many pieces of brass I am working with and a bent open paper clip. Then as I wipe them as clean as I can with the paper towels, I inspect each piece of brass for any signs of over pressure or other damage. Paper clip is for running the bent open end down inside the brass to see if I can feel any sign of case head separation. Basically all I am saying is add 'case inspection' to your routine. Mine (inspection) actually starts at the range when I eject the brass.

I've wiped them clean enough where I can lube them and decap and FL resize them without having to clean them ( I use the ultrasound method), which I do after sizing.
 
mikeeg02 said:
If you use a k&m neck Turner and their pilot, you'll need to use their expander. Their pilot is larger in diameter than most. They say it's a more consistent turn that way, but they also sell an expander that way. Either way I have it and think it works well.

I use a uniformer after they have been fired once, and I use it every time to clean primer pockets.

Also after firing, before you anneal, or do anything to the necks, take 0000 steel wool and clean them up. Keeps dirt out of your dies, and I think if you anneal it makes things more consistent.
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I'm only mentioning this because you didn't tell us the type of annealer you bought. When you clean up the case necks with 0000steel wool make sure you tap the cases on your bench to get all the fuzz out before you put the case into an AMP
annealer. That fuzz will collect on a plastic part under the induction coil and burn a hole rendering the unit inoperable and will not be warranted. This was corrected when AMP upgraded the machine to handle 50BMG. To remove any fuzz from a first generation unit you could use mechanics magnet wand or screw driver.
 
My Honey reminded me what I spent. I smiled knowing I had good equipment and had received great advice from this site. She was staring into the closet I store powder in and asked "is this much safe"? Guess I will need to pay off her car. Its a balance best advice I can give. LOL
 
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