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is there a a trick to re installing the spring and bolt release on a remm 700!

  • Thread starter Thread starter RW
  • Start date Start date
I have tried to find some good info on replacing the bolt release and spring but I havent found it tried backing them up with match sticksI have done them in the past but it is turning into a hell project!!!!I try to get the pin in thru the bolt release and spring but to no avail!! any way if any one hase some tip and tricks, Im all ear's Thank You, Ron
 
I have tried to find some good info on replacing the bolt release and spring but I havent found it tried backing them up with match sticksI have done them in the past but it is turning into a hell project!!!!I try to get the pin in thru the bolt release and spring but to no avail!! any way if any one hase some tip and tricks, Im all ear's Thank You, Ron
They sure are a PIA arent they. I have cussed them plenty of times. Best ive been able to do is use a short slave pin to hold them in and push the other pin through from the other side. Im no gunsmith though so i hope better answers show here for you.
 
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Shouldn't remove the bolt release when taking out a trigger. I use a 1/8" punch to drive the rear pin out from right to left just enough to release the trigger, but still keep the bolt release and spring pinned in the action. A good practice is to NEVER drive the rear pin out towards the safety lever! If you do not have the safety lever on SAFE, you can easily break the safety lever in half. Plus you wont be able to keep the bolt release pinned that way. Set the same or a new trigger in and drive the rear pin back in, then the front. Check for proper operation and adjust as needed.

If you've removed the bolt release, place the action upside down in a vice. I use hard rubber jaws that attach to my vice with magnets. Then insert the 1/8" punch through the bolt release and spring to hold everything in place as you drive the rear pin in from the safety lever side. Let the pin drive the punch out as you keep downward pressure on the spring. Piece of cake.
 
I don't seem to have much of a problem. Here's how I do it. Hold the action with the trigger slot facing you, barrel to your left. Line up the top lever and front hole in the trigger housing. Then visually line that hole up in the front pin hole in the action. Install front pin. Roll the trigger into the action letting the top lever go free but maintain contact with spring. Then to the rear. Lay the bolt stop in the slot cut for it. Hold the spring by the long arm in your left hand and trigger pin in your right. Insert the coiled section of the spring under the stop, flexing the spring enough to get a bite with the pin, line up the pin with the action hole and get the pin started. Then pinch the top lever into the housing and finishing installing the pin. Takes 20 times as long to type this than to do it.
 
Yup! Things get harder as we get older. Action near to you, barrel facing straight away. Tap the rear pin in until it just starts to show at the slot. Put the spring and lever in and hold with thumb. With left hand(here's where I get frustrated cause I can't hit or " hammer " with my left hand to save my life) tap the pin the rest of the way. I do mine on a work table, on a towel because I always drop parts and I hate searching the floor for hours!
To bed an action, you have to take them apart.
I snapped a safety off, once. I was in a hurry.:eek:
 
Yup! Things get harder as we get older. Action near to you, barrel facing straight away. Tap the rear pin in until it just starts to show at the slot. Put the spring and lever in and hold with thumb. With left hand(here's where I get frustrated cause I can't hit or " hammer " with my left hand to save my life) tap the pin the rest of the way. I do mine on a work table, on a towel because I always drop parts and I hate searching the floor for hours!
To bed an action, you have to take them apart.
I snapped a safety off, once. I was in a hurry.:eek:

I took me snapping a safety lever off learn my lesson too! Man was I pissed at myself! LOL. Never again will I drive the rear pin out towards the lever ;)
 
They sure are a POA arent they. I have cussed them plenty of times. Best ive been able to do is use a short slave pin to hold them in and push the other pin through from the other side. Im no gunsmith though so i hope better answers show here for you.
On the other side, you have to admire the mechanical genius built into not only our firearms but in many devices we take for granted every day !
 
In my opinion, the best thing is to get rid of that horribly designed trigger mounted bolt release and have a side release machined into the receiver. A gunsmith with a CNC machine will usually do it for around $125 give or take.
 
In my opinion, the best thing is to get rid of that horribly designed trigger mounted bolt release and have a side release machined into the receiver. A gunsmith with a CNC machine will usually do it for around $125 give or take.
Don't misinterpret because I really like the actions I have that have a side bolt release.
I have seen quite a few side bolt releases fail (mostly in the PRS crowd) but never saw a failed R700 bolt release fail. Yup; it's a PITA to work with but it gets the job done.
 
I don't seem to have much of a problem. Here's how I do it. Hold the action with the trigger slot facing you, barrel to your left. Line up the top lever and front hole in the trigger housing. Then visually line that hole up in the front pin hole in the action. Install front pin. Roll the trigger into the action letting the top lever go free but maintain contact with spring. Then to the rear. Lay the bolt stop in the slot cut for it. Hold the spring by the long arm in your left hand and trigger pin in your right. Insert the coiled section of the spring under the stop, flexing the spring enough to get a bite with the pin, line up the pin with the action hole and get the pin started. Then pinch the top lever into the housing and finishing installing the pin. Takes 20 times as long to type this than to do it.

^^^ On a bad day this will take me 2 minutes if I drop things twice with my clumsy uncoordinated left mitt because of stroke. On a good day and with literally hundreds done this way about 30 seconds, takes longer to get the 3 pieces (pin, lever and spring) all gathered up then to do it. I though line up sear/trigger body and install front pin first(make sure to drive pin in flush or just below flush or bolt release lever will drag or not go into place), lay in release lever, insert spring and get pin started through it and spring then push up on spring coil and get pin into receiver. Some days it takes me longer to align sear, trigger body and receiver holes on the front pin than rear. Having a slave pin no longer than trigger body width to retain sear makes things much easier. Make sure sear spring still where it needs to be then pivot assembly into position, holding sear down with right 'bugger' finger as you do so. :eek: Now while holding sear with left 'bugger' finger and pinching with left thumb tap or push rear pin now down through trigger assembly till flush or almost flush with bolt release lever. Cuss if necessary, wipe off any blood, buggers or drool(drool comes with age and health conditions) and yer nearly ready to fly, fart(not always farts when you get old and forgetful or finish!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :D

As Dave said, takes way longer to type it(by the time I check/correct misspelling ) then do it once you get the hang of things. Hope this makes sense???:confused:
 
Don't misinterpret because I really like the actions I have that have a side bolt release.
I have seen quite a few side bolt releases fail (mostly in the PRS crowd) but never saw a failed R700 bolt release fail. Yup; it's a PITA to work with but it gets the job done.
id like all my bolt actions ro have a side bolt release -thanks for the report on the failures- better than the rocker style popular now I like the mauser style. I dont think they fail very often.
 
Don't misinterpret because I really like the actions I have that have a side bolt release.
I have seen quite a few side bolt releases fail (mostly in the PRS crowd) but never saw a failed R700 bolt release fail. Yup; it's a PITA to work with but it gets the job done.

How did they fail? I've never experienced a failure. Though I don't brutally slam my bolt back when cycling either. The only type of failure I can see happening would be a pivot pin falling out.
 
I don't seem to have much of a problem. Here's how I do it. Hold the action with the trigger slot facing you, barrel to your left. Line up the top lever and front hole in the trigger housing. Then visually line that hole up in the front pin hole in the action. Install front pin. Roll the trigger into the action letting the top lever go free but maintain contact with spring. Then to the rear. Lay the bolt stop in the slot cut for it. Hold the spring by the long arm in your left hand and trigger pin in your right. Insert the coiled section of the spring under the stop, flexing the spring enough to get a bite with the pin, line up the pin with the action hole and get the pin started. Then pinch the top lever into the housing and finishing installing the pin. Takes 20 times as long to type this than to do it.
This is what I do and it never takes more than 5 minutes. Never turn it upside like someone else said. You'll be looking for that sear spring for hours. Nice job of 'splaining it Dave!! Dave is an excellent craftsman!!
 
How did they fail? I've never experienced a failure. Though I don't brutally slam my bolt back when cycling either. The only type of failure I can see happening would be a pivot pin falling out.
That is exactly where they fail. I've seen about a half dozen pins fail and on more than one of the big name actions.
 
That is exactly where they fail. I've seen about a half dozen pins fail and on more than one of the big name actions.

Well that's easy to rectify with a little nail polish on the end of the pin shaft to hold it in place. Or maybe swap to a roll pin so it hold's better. Plenty of other simple fixes too im sure.
 
There is one obvious thing that you need to do at the beginning; secure the barreled action so that it does not move, so that you have the use of both hands, and can push on the parts without the action moving. I have a low torque barrel that is used to switch barrels for my benchrest rifles that works well for this. I think that some fellows seem to think that that buying the proper tools is a waste of money that they can figure out a way around. I prefer to have the right tools for the job.
 
Well that's easy to rectify with a little nail polish on the end of the pin shaft to hold it in place. Or maybe swap to a roll pin so it hold's better. Plenty of other simple fixes too im sure.
It appeared to me that the pins broke. Those guys are tough on equipment!
 

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