Ed,
I do love your posts. Actually, I've rather a lot of HXP 303 brass, some new and with original staked-in primers from demilled Mk7 ammo. (Good stuff!), but no 303 rifle for many a long year. Shame that we're on opposite sides of the Atlantic or you could have it.
I think the other factors in keeping 303 brass alive and healthy is neck sizing and keeping pressures nice and low, like under 40,000 psi. I don't think I ever wore 303 brass out until necks split, and I'd usually got myself another rifle and started with new brass before that happened. That was in chronological order a pre WW1 BSA match version of the long 'Territorial Pattern' rifle with both service and folding twin-zero target aperture rearsight; an Ishapore WW2 SMLE; Fultons built inter-war era target SMLE with heavy BSA barrel and all the bedding tricks (for the old Service Rifle (b) discipline); ordinary WW2 No.4; and a very good shooting Ross MkIII.
I do love your posts. Actually, I've rather a lot of HXP 303 brass, some new and with original staked-in primers from demilled Mk7 ammo. (Good stuff!), but no 303 rifle for many a long year. Shame that we're on opposite sides of the Atlantic or you could have it.
I think the other factors in keeping 303 brass alive and healthy is neck sizing and keeping pressures nice and low, like under 40,000 psi. I don't think I ever wore 303 brass out until necks split, and I'd usually got myself another rifle and started with new brass before that happened. That was in chronological order a pre WW1 BSA match version of the long 'Territorial Pattern' rifle with both service and folding twin-zero target aperture rearsight; an Ishapore WW2 SMLE; Fultons built inter-war era target SMLE with heavy BSA barrel and all the bedding tricks (for the old Service Rifle (b) discipline); ordinary WW2 No.4; and a very good shooting Ross MkIII.