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Is it worth setting back a factory barrel

I compete in UBR factory class with a Winchester model 70 223 varmint gun. This gun used to shoot amazing, I've held my own and beat customs in the past, sub 1/4" 5 shot groups and it repeated. But now with 3500 rounds down the tube its getting tired. I still managed to win the season with it but the scores were closer than I like.

We are allowed to set back our barrels and true the action according to club rules, it just has to be a factory action, stock, and barrel. Here's my question, is it worth spending $350 to cut an inch off the barrel and true the action with a factory barrel? I'm concerned it wont shoot as well as it did new. I guess there is no way to know without trying. My other option is keep buying new guns until I find one that shoots great.

Has anyone trued a factory gun and had great results?
 
It sounds like you're asking two separate questions. 1) Should you have your current barrel set back and re-chambered. 2) Should you have your action blueprinted.

I'll answer question #2 first. If I was shooting the gun in competition and the rules allowed for it, I would absolutely have the action blueprinted.

As for question #1, you mentioned you're limited to shooting factory barrels so that obviously limits you to either setting your barrel back or trying to find another factory barrel that'll shoot as well as your current barrel. Since 3500 rounds for a 223 isn't all that much, I'd take it to a good qualified gunsmith and have him bore scope it then go from there.
 
350 seems a bit high to do a setback, unless that includes the action work, going price around here is as low as $150-250. I would check around. I would not hesitate to do a setback, most barrels still shoot as well as before.
 
It sounds like it would be the cost for both jobs. You know this barrel shoots and finding a gun that might shoot that good would cost more. I'd say go for it.
 
350 seems a bit high to do a setback, unless that includes the action work, going price around here is as low as $150-250. I would check around. I would not hesitate to do a setback, most barrels still shoot as well as before.

I think $350 is a little high but prices will vary depending on how far the gunsmith has to set the barrel back. If he cuts the threads completely off then rethreads it and puts a new chamber in it'll cost about the same as if it were a new blank barrel, but if the smith only cuts a few threads off then chambers it back to spec it's less work and it'll probably cost a less.

If the barrel already has 3500 rounds down it, I'd spend the extra money to have it set back, rethreaded and a new chamber with a freebore that'll match the bullet/s I plan to shoot.

I had Kevin Weaver set the barrel back an inch and put a new chamber on a brand new CZ 527 Varmint 17 Hornet I bought this past spring. It cost me $300.

Also, how much a smith can set the barrel back will somewhat depend on how much shank the barrel has but I think the OP mentioned this is a varmint size barrel contour so it'll probably be ok to set back an inch.
 
Lot of factors on the set back, better use someone that is darn good.

This is a Hart 223 barrel that had been "ate up" with N133 in about 1400 rounds on the second chamber.

The pilot that fit the muzzle is .2186. Barrels do not wear much at the muzzle, so you try and find out how much wear that you have close to that number. You are limited as to how much you can cut off due to dia. needed at the shoulder. In extreme cases for a varmint barrel, you can go with a barrel nut in which case you can cut off a tad more.

Barrel%20wear%20005.jpg
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You can see how the bore dia grew.
Barrel%20wear%20004.jpg

Barrel%20wear%20002.jpg
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[/URL] Getting that new throat in the .2186 area is the magic to try for, best you can
Barrel%20wear%20005.jpg


Note position of the end of the new chamber, and will be the third chamber on this incredible shooting barrel which started off at 26" and is now a 22", Max heavy varmint contour, which started off with 5" of straight on the back end of a new barrel blank. If you can get the bore dia back to within .0002 of the original throat dia, I have found that barrels will shoot extremely well. This barrel shot 1's and 2's with N133 and 52g Fowlers, now on the third chamber, shoots low 2's. You don't know if it is barrel wear or the length of the barrel that has changed harmonics. A gunsmith can NEVER offer an accuracy guarantee when doing this kind of operation for many reasons. I have found on custom high quality barrels when using this method will go back to shooting very well for varmint hunters and casual informal target shooting.

I keep a close watch on my throat dia as this will cause groups to open up.

Barrel%20wear%20001.jpg
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Having an extensive set of pilots for your reamers is critical. A guy that only has one pilot for his reamer has screwed the pooch from the get go. The reamer would be flopping around like a washing machine out of balance.

I like to use the interapid indicator with the 2.7" needle to indicate the throat with. ON this kind of work, you become acutely aware of cleaning rod wear, and uneven wear in the throat and lands. You are forced into using a Range rod and Grizzley rod to get medium and coarse indications that can drive an anal retentive crazy with the compromises to be made. I am only a hobbiest, and for me, it is always stressful till I fire my first group.

ON a side note, this barrel shot incredible for the first two chambers, the third chamber with same powder, bullets, cases, scope is seeing the groups open up on an average of .060 from where the first two chambers were shooting when "NEW" . I am guessing that this barrel has in the area of 3500 rounds on it now. I ever wait till the throat is completely shot out before I set back. When the zero freebore throat approaches .070 to .100 of leade growth, it is time to start looking. This barrel has seen a lot of time on ground squirrels and p. dogs, shot hot many, many times.
 
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Thank you for the responses, I still have not decided what to do but am leaning toward giving it a try and having it set back. If it doesn't work I'll get a Krieger on order and build a semi custom. I will speak to my gunsmith and make sure he has some different pilot options. He has built me several full customs already and they shoot fantastic.
 
I compete in UBR factory class with a Winchester model 70 223 varmint gun. This gun used to shoot amazing, I've held my own and beat customs in the past, sub 1/4" 5 shot groups and it repeated. But now with 3500 rounds down the tube its getting tired. I still managed to win the season with it but the scores were closer than I like.

We are allowed to set back our barrels and true the action according to club rules, it just has to be a factory action, stock, and barrel. Here's my question, is it worth spending $350 to cut an inch off the barrel and true the action with a factory barrel? I'm concerned it wont shoot as well as it did new. I guess there is no way to know without trying. My other option is keep buying new guns until I find one that shoots great.

Has anyone trued a factory gun and had great results?
with factory stuff its always a crapshoot. IF youre getting the action trued and barrel set back for 350.00 that is a pretty good deal. if the barrel doesnt perform you still have a trued action and could find another factory barrel. if youre paying 350 just for the barrel setback-- well pay your money and take your chances-- no one can tell you how that will turn out.
 
Thank you for the responses, I still have not decided what to do but am leaning toward giving it a try and having it set back. If it doesn't work I'll get a Krieger on order and build a semi custom. I will speak to my gunsmith and make sure he has some different pilot options. He has built me several full customs already and they shoot fantastic.
Call some gunsmiths and try to find a factory takeoff barrel. Larry Racine may have some, or know where to find one.
 

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