Brians356
Gold $$ Contributor
Even an HS should be skim bedded.
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Is it worth bedding a plastic stock?
- Thread starter spudgun
- Start date
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Totally agree.
ive taken 2 crossbow arrows and epoxied then into the forearm to stiffen it up so theres no flex before
CharlieNC
Gold $$ Contributor
How do you plan on shooting this? Being a 6.5 it will be in the open class, and that that forend is not very suitable to shoot off of a rest as virtually all others will use. If you intend on using a bipod, it will not be at all competitive. Not knowing your longer term plan, I would say just go shoot it as it is, have fun, and use as a learning opportunity to help decide a suitable next step.
drop_point
Silver $$ Contributor
I just did a Remington ADL plastic stock. The rifle was very inconsistent. Sometimes the rifle would group great. Other times there would be some crazy fliers. I finally broke down and decided to give it a generous free-float, installed bedding pillars, and glass-bedded using Devcon. So far, the "fliers" are now usually within an inch of the group. Its gone from a solid 1.5 MOA average to about a .75 MOA rifle. This is okay for a hunting rifle, but for competition, I would imagine a better rifle stock would be in order.
AckleymanII
Gold $$ Contributor
I and brother have had some decent luck on Remington plastic stocks with a very strange approach.
Brother came up with the idea, I told him he was full of crap, but it has worked on multiple rifles.
He uses those stick on wheel weights in the forearm, as many as it will hold. This really makes the forearm stiff as that glue on the Wheel weights is SuPER! Then we bed or Pilar bed the action as normal, scuffing up the plastic in the action area considerably.
On a rush job, we just put the wheel weights in the forearm, then bed the recoil lug, float the mag box and barrel. We have seen some remarkable results with this method.
Brother came up with the idea, I told him he was full of crap, but it has worked on multiple rifles.
He uses those stick on wheel weights in the forearm, as many as it will hold. This really makes the forearm stiff as that glue on the Wheel weights is SuPER! Then we bed or Pilar bed the action as normal, scuffing up the plastic in the action area considerably.
On a rush job, we just put the wheel weights in the forearm, then bed the recoil lug, float the mag box and barrel. We have seen some remarkable results with this method.
Waist of time. Tommy Mc
I have not tried it yet, but I had a recommendation to use broken, carbon fiber arrow shafts to stiffen up a plastic stock. I am going to try it once I source some arrows. I plan to use DevCon to epoxy them in.
divingin
Gold $$ Contributor
Might be cheaper to source carbon fiber rod:
https://dragonplate.com/carbon-fiber-rod (just as an example; I've never worked with any carbon fiber.)
Arrow shafts are going to be in the 1/4"ish range. I'd think smaller diameter would be easier to install (maybe more pieces?)
I would say yes and no. You will likely get a positive return, especially considering how cheap you can really do one. If it was a hunting stock, I'd say go for it but I worry you'll just be disappointed. Since there is no factory class for f-class, I would not worry about trying to stay in that lane.
Decent wood stocks can be purchased and easily modified pretty cheaply, as you mentioned the boyds are a good choice.
If you're looking at it as more of an experiment, then go for it. If you're looking for it as a legit foray in f-class, then you'll probably decide to forego putting the effort into the plastic stock.
As luck would have it, I went to an archery range today and asked the sales guy if he had any CF broken arrows. He gave me 3 to play with.
Coyotefurharvester
Silver $$ Contributor
I have a TC venture(338wm) the plastic stock fore-end was very flexible and poi shifted when going from bags to bipod. It is a honeycomb type structure. I used a heated piece of #9 wire to make passageways between the open spaces. Found 2 24 hr 2 part epoxy kits on clearance. Filled the honeycomb structure to about 1/8" below the barrel channel. Now the rifle shoots well no matter how is supported. To tighten the groups after I found the tang area of the stock was low. I drilled 2 small holes under the tang and used JB weld to fill in the area. Now I have a dependable hunting rifle.
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