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Invested in cartridge gauge.. 308, 223

Had been doing reloading for a while, but found issues when new rifle came in and there were some bolt closing issues...

After a bunch of checking, reading, was doing more and more measurements to make sure things were right, including buying small base die set (RCBS).

Thinking the small base dies would fix things, there were still some issues with a few cases.

I would do a check on the cases, trying them in the rifle to check fit!

Found the Hornady cartridge gauges, for 308 and 223's...bought them...have been doing 308s now...

It really does a nice check on the case and the cartridge. So, it basically checks the cartridge to SAAMI specs.

So next toy, getting the Dillon head space/ case length gauges for 308, 223...arriving next week.

Wondering if most have been using these, or just making some measurements. I was measuring things, but there might be a bit of the case that was off, the gauges find that issue. You can then run it again through the die with a little extra push! Usually then things are good. If not, the case gets tossed.

Thought I would just pass this along...
 
GO - NO GO gauges are helpful, but not needed (IMO)

Lots of details missing here, action type, factory or custom etc.
 
GO - NO GO gauges are helpful, but not needed (IMO)

Lots of details missing here, action type, factory or custom etc.

these are not the GO, NO-GO gauges... I have those too...good to check the rifle...

loads are for savage 11 (308), and Mossberg Patriot (308) (both bolt action, factory))

This is to check the cartridges... tried cartridge on factory loads...fits perfectly, then can see the reloads
check smoothly ( or not). Just another tool to check things..


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OK.

No reason to toss cases if you have a comparator and some thing to "blacken" the cases to see where they are hitting/touching.
But whatever works for you is cool.
 
The cartridge gauge is a handi tool, quick and easy to use. I use them along with the Hornady comparator to measure bullets for seating depth and cases for shoulder bump.
 
If a “dull” or worn reamer was used to chamber the barrel, the chamber is going to have tight spots that are nearly impossible to see with eyes on fired brass. The go/no go gauges will still pass the headspace check in manufacture but cause closing issues with new and resized brass. The shoulder to body radius may be rounded excessively which will cause bolt closures with force and after sizing the brass flow will again cause forced closure because the die puts a sharpness on the shoulder as expected for a proper chamber. Excess shoulder bump back will allow easy closing but create overworking the brass on the firing cycle. Marking the brass with a Sharpie might show the tightness but the brass has to rotate to remove the marker and sometimes a tightness in this area won’t show.
 
Had been doing reloading for a while, but found issues when new rifle came in and there were some bolt closing issues...

After a bunch of checking, reading, was doing more and more measurements to make sure things were right, including buying small base die set (RCBS).

Thinking the small base dies would fix things, there were still some issues with a few cases.

I would do a check on the cases, trying them in the rifle to check fit!

Found the Hornady cartridge gauges, for 308 and 223's...bought them...have been doing 308s now...

It really does a nice check on the case and the cartridge. So, it basically checks the cartridge to SAAMI specs.

So next toy, getting the Dillon head space/ case length gauges for 308, 223...arriving next week.

Wondering if most have been using these, or just making some measurements. I was measuring things, but there might be a bit of the case that was off, the gauges find that issue. You can then run it again through the die with a little extra push! Usually then things are good. If not, the case gets tossed.

Thought I would just pass this along...
Been reloading since 1970, never had a problem or needed a gauge of any kind. I believe you never mentioned a bump gauge. A bump guage is cheap and probably shows the problem. Compare a factory cartridge length with a bump guage to one you sized and one you fired to fit your chamber. The factory may have run the reamer in a little short or long and still be in SAAMI spec. Sounds like your going to have a collection of over 5 gauges and still have a problem. Some presses are not capable of bumping the shoulder back 0.002" from what I have read on this website.
 
I have the Wilson version of case gauges, for non-belted cases. These are set up with an upper and lower step, band width about .005". The idea is to size so that you are in the approximate middle of the steps, not above the upper step nor below the lower step. These gauges are machined for checking cases fired SAMMI spec. chambers.

These types of gauges can be used as a qualitative check tool for cases to be reloaded and shot in SAMMI spec chambers. I used them for years and still have them. They can serve as a "quick" check of ammo fit in a SAMMI spec rifle chamber.

A better and more precise method to set up your F/L sizing die for optimum sizing is to use a bump gauge and caliper. This only works if you dedicate a group of cases to a specific rifle.
 
I have a gauge for each rifle caliber I shoot but the only time I use them is to check rounds that I size that was shot in a different rifle or is going into a semi automatic. it prevents having chambering issues at the range.
 
I have a gauge for each rifle caliber I shoot but the only time I use them is to check rounds that I size that was shot in a different rifle or is going into a semi automatic. it prevents having chambering issues at the range.
Close to what I do.
When I buy brass, new or 1x fired, I'll case gauge check the lot.
I will check every case after sizing for semi-auto rifles.
For precision bolt guns, I'll do headspace case measurement to confirm my bump.
 
well, i hadnt realized all these finer points! i assumed ( and thats bad) run case thru die and its good! NO its not, now small base die and that gets 90 %, use comparator, run case again. use the right lube, now use case gauge, now use cartridge gauge...then use calipers to verify, now at 99%! did i leave anything out ? eeeeks
 
well, i hadnt realized all these finer points! i assumed ( and thats bad) run case thru die and its good! NO its not, now small base die and that gets 90 %, use comparator, run case again. use the right lube, now use case gauge, now use cartridge gauge...then use calipers to verify, now at 99%! did i leave anything out ? eeeeks
just to add one more thing, ordered a sheridan slotted 308 gauge...that completes the case/cartridge checkout.....yeesch...
 
If it's a headspace issue and the shoulder needs to be bumped back I like the RCBS Precision Mic gauge. It shows how much you are off and is easy to read. I check all my reloads with one after sizing. Then if there is only a couple that need more bump, I just use a Redding Body Die to bump them a little more. No need to bump them back more than is needed.
 
If it's a headspace issue and the shoulder needs to be bumped back I like the RCBS Precision Mic gauge. It shows how much you are off and is easy to read. I check all my reloads with one after sizing. Then if there is only a couple that need more bump, I just use a Redding Body Die to bump them a little more. No need to bump them back more than is needed.
is the redding body die different than the rcbs full legth small body die?
 

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