How important is it to deburr the inside of the primer pocket from inside the shell? all my flash holes are unform but the inside isnt deburred. Does it make that much of a difference. Im only talking about brass such as federal and winchester etc not your top brass like norma and lapua they all should be unform.
Inside primer pocket deburr
- Thread starter chriswillis87
- Start date
I once did 500 .223 win cases. When I was done I had a nice pile of brass. It will help with making ignition consistant because the burrs are not the same.
So over all you think it isworth the time in doing. Ive got 200 federal 270 brass what i need to do. Ive cut the primer pockets unform but was unsure bout the inside. I would buy norma 270 brass and se but it is way to deer.
The brass you are referencing has the primer flash hole punched from the primer side. There are irreguar "wings" of metal left around this hole on the inslde that can cause the primer ignition flash to not be uniform.
So, yes I believe it is important to do this and do it on all my non-Lapua cases (Lapua drills their flash holes). And somethines even the Lapua cases to cause a uniform bevel on the inside of the cases at then flash holes - does it help with Lapua cases, probably not but I have not seem it hurt.
So, yes I believe it is important to do this and do it on all my non-Lapua cases (Lapua drills their flash holes). And somethines even the Lapua cases to cause a uniform bevel on the inside of the cases at then flash holes - does it help with Lapua cases, probably not but I have not seem it hurt.
Chris,
apart from the amount of brass you take out in deburring like Groupshooters says, the other way you can (literally) see the size of the issue is look through the flash-hole on a new case from the primer pocket side. Turn and angle the case in good light and you'll literally see anything sticking out on the inside surface round the hole. This will only work with new brass as the clean metal reflects light well.
Some cases are pretty bad inside - worst I've ever had were Winchester .243WSSM probably because the web is so thick on them.
I bought the Lyman flash-hole uniformer / deburr tool years ago and do all such cases. it's quick and a one-off job, but you need to trim all cases to the same length beforehand as this and similar tools index off the case-mouth. Some people reckon that cutting a small bevel on the inside mouth of the flash-hole is a good idea as it acts a venturi. Won't do any harm at worst and may do some good - as long as you don't overdo it and weaken the case-head.
Laurie,
York, England
apart from the amount of brass you take out in deburring like Groupshooters says, the other way you can (literally) see the size of the issue is look through the flash-hole on a new case from the primer pocket side. Turn and angle the case in good light and you'll literally see anything sticking out on the inside surface round the hole. This will only work with new brass as the clean metal reflects light well.
Some cases are pretty bad inside - worst I've ever had were Winchester .243WSSM probably because the web is so thick on them.
I bought the Lyman flash-hole uniformer / deburr tool years ago and do all such cases. it's quick and a one-off job, but you need to trim all cases to the same length beforehand as this and similar tools index off the case-mouth. Some people reckon that cutting a small bevel on the inside mouth of the flash-hole is a good idea as it acts a venturi. Won't do any harm at worst and may do some good - as long as you don't overdo it and weaken the case-head.
Laurie,
York, England
Sinclair Int'l makes a very good flash hole deburring tool. It is not dependant upon having to size the cases beforehand. Winchester flash holes are punched and they should be deburred.
I run the Sinclair flash hole tool through all of my new brass (Winchesters). It helps with consistency as mentioned previously.
One thing to note though, you only need to take off enough to just remove the burr and ever so lightly chamfer the edges. You don't need to ream out a big chamfer on the flash hole. You want it to stay as small as possible but even.
One thing to note though, you only need to take off enough to just remove the burr and ever so lightly chamfer the edges. You don't need to ream out a big chamfer on the flash hole. You want it to stay as small as possible but even.
I deburr all my new brass - only has to be done once - if for no other reason than the peace of mind it gives me.
Started doing ALL new cases when I got a batch of Tubb-stamped 6XC a few years back that had burrs covering 50% or more of the flash hole. Granted, this was custom stuff, not quite what you'd be buying off the shelf. (I think it was made by Silver States Armory at that time) This was The Worst I've ever seen in factory-new brass, but all benefit from a twist or two of a flash hole reamer.
Don't take more off than you need to; thinning the case web isn't something that enhances case life. You only want to clean up the edge where the primer flame enters the case body....
Started doing ALL new cases when I got a batch of Tubb-stamped 6XC a few years back that had burrs covering 50% or more of the flash hole. Granted, this was custom stuff, not quite what you'd be buying off the shelf. (I think it was made by Silver States Armory at that time) This was The Worst I've ever seen in factory-new brass, but all benefit from a twist or two of a flash hole reamer.
Don't take more off than you need to; thinning the case web isn't something that enhances case life. You only want to clean up the edge where the primer flame enters the case body....
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