Input on new Savage Barrel

[Art Dirindin]

I just bought and are awaiting arrival of a new Savage rifle, a .308 24" 5R fluted barrell 10FCP DBM and was wondering if attempting to smooth out the barrel by a means besides simply shooting it is advisable or not.

I have read about Tubbs Final finish barrel smoothing kits, but seeing as I'm strictly a hobby shooter for now and the quite considerable future I'm thinking I'd have more fun and be better served spending the money on bullets, brass, powder and shooting taht I'd spend on the Tubb kit.

All thoughts appreciated.

Arthur.

 

[waltk]

Clean it and shoot it!

 

[BoydAllen]

+1

 

[RonAKA]

My Savage LRPV in 6BR barrel cleaned up quickly with the standard break-in procedure. I just broke in a hand lapped McGowen barrel and it perhaps cleaned up a touch quicker, but not much. I just use a patch soaked in Barnes CR-10 wrapped around a nylon brush to clean. It lets you see how much copper you are getting. Basically followed the procedure at the Savage site, but modify/speed up based on how copper I'm seeing. Just lay the patches side by side in a row, and you will easily see how much copper is there and how fast it cleans up. I modify the repeat numbers based on what I am seeing. I also only use the CR-10 solvent, not two solvents.

http://www.savagearms.com/expert-advice/barrel-break-in/

 

[Art Dirindin]

Thanks for the replies so far. I did a Goggle search on "barrel brake in" and to say there is a simply overwhelming amount of information pro and con, mostly con, concerning a actual procedure for barrel brake in is a world class understatement.

I'm just going to shoot it and clean it. I reload so It will likely never see a round of factory ammo. I still can not get over the price I paid for a rifle that features a heavy varmint barrel, Accutigger and Accustock with a full length aluminum bedding block, DBM, fluted barrel and threaded muzzle if I ever wish to upgrade to a MB.

 

[RonAKA]

Many do not understand what they are doing with a barrel break-in procedure. You are just removing the copper from the micro pits in the barrel surface, so the high spots (peaks) can be smoothed over. If you don't get the copper out of the pits, the peaks cannot be smoothed over. Barnes CR-10 and Sweet's 7.62 are two good copper removal solvents. Hoppe's makes a Benchrest copper removal solvent and I presume it works. The common Hoppe's #9 is useless.

 

[Art Dirindin]

I have been using Wipe-Out Foaming bore cleaner by Sharp Shoot-R industries for 6-7 years now and it works Superbly I use nothing else at all anymore usually one 3-4 he soaking and less than 10 patches and my bore is clean patches come out white

 

[Zero333]

Clean it before you shoot it.

Shoot 1 and clean,
Shoot 3 and clean,
Shoot 5 and clean,
Shoot 10 and clean.
Shoot as many as you like then clean.

^This is what I do to Factory barrels.

For Match barrels that been hand lapped I just clean before shooting the first shot. No break-in.