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Inletting a flat top....

Wouldn't you want contact with the pillars? The pillars are there so there is no chance of compression when the screws are tightened.

Carbon Fiber Bedding Lacewood - Thuya Burl, Finished 3-12-22.JPG
 
@AlNyhus Great timing. I'm standing out in the shop scratching my head about what to do next and how to keep the action where I want it after removing 50 thou of all its supporting surfaces.

I do like the idea of having the pillars covered. I took apart a rifle that Alex Sitman put together for me and was studying it. He does the same thing. Pillars are hidden.

I'm still a bit confused how to "locate" the action where I want it
Do you mean how you keep it at the correcy depth so it doesn't sit too low or too high?
Before you relieve the inlet for epoxy you coul make temporary epoxy pads for the barrel to sit on and then cut out for the epoxy so that if the barrel sits on the pad the action doesn't contact the stock. I have not found a way to do this to my satisfaction yet. Last one, I did wraps of tape to support the barrel and this worked ok. You leave a little contact point at the tang to support the rear end.
 
Do you mean how you keep it at the correcy depth so it doesn't sit too low or too high?
Before you relieve the inlet for epoxy you coul make temporary epoxy pads for the barrel to sit on and then cut out for the epoxy so that if the barrel sits on the pad the action doesn't contact the stock. I have not found a way to do this to my satisfaction yet. Last one, I did wraps of tape to support the barrel and this worked ok. You leave a little contact point at the tang to support the rear end.

Yes.

I was thinking the same thing about the tang. I could leave a little bit there. Then the tang and tape wrapped barrel can support it.
 
I located the action by figuring out where the tang needed to be in relation to the tang/sloped part of the stock. It's probably 1/4 inch further back than I'd like it... but if I moved it forward the action tang would be buried in the stock. Not sure which is the right answer, but I know I'll have to address it on the next stock I'm putting together.
It's easier to reshape the tang area than move the pistol grip to the rear.
 
Wouldn't you want contact with the pillars? The pillars are there so there is no chance of compression when the screws are tightened.

View attachment 1384685
John, my preference is not to have the action in contact with two materials (the bedding and pillars). By providing a good thickness of bedding over the top of the pillars, I feel the bedding has better longevity, as well.

My 2 cents worth. :) -Al
 
They will do that without touching the action. Having the pillars touching may cause stress or tension that may effect perfomance when the rifle is put together.

I am not sure it causes tension. All my LRBR rifles contact the pillars and shoot very well, as shown by the targets in my earlier post.
 
If you want an easy way to locate the action, Buy some of these.

 
Also, if you cracked the wrist and only glued it back together, it will eventually crack or break again because the grain of that wood is not running thru the wrist correctly. I’ve seen people fight that battle before and it sucks. To help I would drill at an angle down thru the wrist and glue a steel dowel pin or piece of stainless all-thread in it before bedding.

I hate it when stock makers don’t give thought to cutting from the blank with wood grain running correctly thru the stock. Just poor craftsmanship is all
it boils down to. The first thing I do when I receive a wood stock is check to see if the wood grains are flowing thru the stock correctly. If not, it gets returned.
 
I am not sure it causes tension. All my LRBR rifles contact the pillars and shoot very well, as shown by the targets in my earlier post.
Heresya heresy! But seriously, I have rifles that touch and don't touch. I will say i probably mispoke using the word tension. I can't tell the difference but some swear it causes stress, what they define that stress, ask them.
 
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Also, if you cracked the wrist and only glued it back together, it will eventually crack or break again because the grain of that wood is not running thru the wrist correctly. I’ve seen people fight that battle before and it sucks. To help I would drill at an angle down thru the wrist and glue a steel dowel pin or piece of stainless all-thread in it before bedding.

I hate it when stock makers don’t give thought to cutting from the blank with wood grain running correctly thru the stock. Just poor craftsmanship is all
it boils down to. The first thing I do when I receive a wood stock is check to see if the wood grains are flowing thru the stock correctly. If not, it gets returned.

It's got a steel pin through the wrist now. I don't care if it breaks again. I got it just for the practice of the full inlet and bed job.
 
Fair... Every action taken on a bright wood stock like this will be wildly visible when it's done... that's the only concern. However, I'm sure it's gonna get a coat of hot pink krylon by the time I'm done with it.
Gotcha- agree, the top edge of the stockline and around the tang where it's visible. With the "pepper" laminate, gray or black epoxy (you cant tint them) would blend pretty good.

I didn't see this linked above (from this site)- mostly how I do it.
 
It may not cause tension, but the bedding will shrink and the pillars wont. After time your action only touches pillars. Run a dial indicator across the 2- its a very simple test!View attachment 1384746
Dusty.....your example is perfect! :) :) It's another reason that the 'O.B.P.' method (Over Bedded Pillars) gives more longevity to the bedding as well as better performance. -Al

PS- I just made up the 'O.B.P.' term...but it fits. ;)
 
If you want an easy way to locate the action, Buy some of these.


Or make them

AL9nZEXfkpGH7Ws7ojK5pAURF2O_kD0cmVLF-mI8nSm51eaQq7VL37tTk36JsDIr0GGInRB06iXYEFiLDqVndnXhtw8nnseDAwJQc7bUkre2KXx4PXRh5LH2i1GGLAx6GNeDnrerXpwNSYd_fDvctLP0Z_Hfdw=w1083-h812-no


AL9nZEUJ80dyFcZ_DbUl5OFEHsGp8Lp9ILQIVb2qQmkTzghBbkVOf1AoYllw8ZnTVqU1U5MadQXOzsZNTVTFDygrpKAWH_GmfF8ahHn82f9iqq1YkxnRf1rodLFQcmJROLaqFZcBX33KmPWMylhi-iJknEBxhg=w1083-h812-no
 

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