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Information on kits for blueing a rifle.

Hi, I am getting ready to retire and I am looking for a business to keep me active. I was thing about blueing as a part time business. I know Brownell's sell kits for blueing but I have little knowledge on how to evaluate such products. Does anyone use this product and how does it perform? Are there things I need to be aware of while researching this endeavor? Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
oldhoward
 
EPA ! Find out if it's legal in your location . You will need an FFL , state , fed , local license and insurance , liability ins is a must . Most set ups I've used were homemade . It's not as in demand as once was , with the superior coatings available now , blueing ( tank ) are limited to very few firearms . Rust blueing on the other hand have a slightly larger restoration and high end rifle / shotgun need .
Those are just my thoughts , and if you go rust bluing , remember they are PICKY , one mistake and you just bought YOUSELF a $12,000.00 shotgun
 
If you find after researching this, that you are serious about it. Before you spend $$, I have a Friend here in NTX, that mentioned he may be selling his Blueing Equipment. If your interested I will ask him. Let me know.
 
I think Brownells offers instructions, maybe for free. The building I'd set-up in will be your first concern. Bluing salts in the steam will eat-up anything that's organic. Positive ventilation is a must, 'cause it'll eat you, too. Disposal of run-off from the fresh water rinse tank and disposal of the solution, itself. The PH should be brought back to neutral. Instead of buying a kit, I'd look at making some of the things you'll need or, if you can't do that yourself, look around and have them made locally,, at least compare the prices. The "kits" that are offered look to be over priced, IMO,,,,,, and you'd have shipping charges, too. Take a look at www.du-lite.com , also. You'll need a good work bench with a vise, several sizes of mill bastard files, a good selection of wet/dry paper and sanding blocks of various shapes and sizes, and a couple of buffing machines (one machine will get you started). You can make the pipe burners. If you're serious, send me a PM and I'll check the size and number of the holes in mine for you. Last I knew, mixers were available from McMaster-Carr as well as Brownells. I'm sure Brownells salts work well. They (Brownells) has become the 'WalMart" of gunsmithing suppies, but they've offered bluing salts forever and I'd expect them to be "up to snuff". Metal prep before bluing has become an art, itself. Your "average Joe" doesn't like to pay for hand work. But, there definitely is a place for professional bluing shops, today. Just don't let your 'customers' nickel and dime you to death! There's more to a professional bluing job than just dipping the metal into a tank.
 
If you find after researching this, that you are serious about it. Before you spend $$, I have a Friend here in NTX, that mentioned he may be selling his Blueing Equipment. If your interested I will ask him. Let me know.
And the reason he might want to sell it? Probably 'cause its a PIA, and most seem to think it should be done for 1960's prices! "I'll pick it up it a couple of days'.
 
I've done plenty of blueing. I'd recommend finding someone who does it and spending a day or two with them. There are far more profitable and fun ways to make some extra money. The first time you have to blue a 97' Winchester you'll rethink ever wanting to do it. There is no money and a lot of pain in the arse in it. Not to mention you'll also need an FFL.
 
A couple of days? I'm a gunsmith school graduate (MCC class of '93). We had a 11 weeks of 'basic' bluing. No handguns or SS/OU guns allowed. Each student was required to blue 5 long guns. You were graded on each one. To get an "A" it had to be flawless, Guild quality acceptable. Out of the 20 students I think 4 received an "incomplete" as they didn't get at least 3 done (3 done, with each being an "A" would get a "C" for the semester). Then, in the second year there was another 11 weeks of "Advanced Bluing", where we were taught slow rust bluing and were allowed to blue handguns/SS/OUs. Again, another 5 guns. There are 'common' bluing shops and top end professional shops. To make real money you have to be at the top end, doing Guild quality work, just like if you're a stock maker or metal smith that does chambering.. (Guild quality work involves a pitless surface when examined with a magnifying glass, no ripples, all corners/edges sharp and the original shape they left the factory, all lettering as it left the factory, and proper, even color with no 'spots'. A "couple of days" would be enough to teach you what you don't know. Top end work, in any field, is where the $$$$ are at. In any gunsmith field today there seems to be two kinds of business,,,,,, those who are doing well for themselves and those that are slowly loosing money. Firearms refinishing is work! I'd be awful hard to keep at it loosing money, breaking even, or only making a little bit of money. A "hard row to hoe"..........
 
What sux are the misconceptions many have about firearms bluing,,,,,,, that it'll cure all the abuse and cosmetic ills that they've inflicted on it over the past 20-30yrs. , and expect it to happen for less than dog catcher wages. Now that you're retiring and have the time, Howard,, attend a NRA week long Summer Gunsmithing school in the field that catches your eye. Just google it.
 
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Hi, I am getting ready to retire and I am looking for a business to keep me active. I was thing about blueing as a part time business. I know Brownell's sell kits for blueing but I have little knowledge on how to evaluate such products. Does anyone use this product and how does it perform? Are there things I need to be aware of while researching this endeavor? Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
oldhoward
65% - Sodium Hydroxide (caustic soda)
25%- Sodium Nitrate
10%- Sodium Nitrite
Mix by weight, it'll take about 75lbs to start your tank, bluing starts around 273°.

If you buy bulk chemicals, say from DudaDiesle, it'll be about 20% cheaper than Brownells.

Adam
 
Ah come on , use what all the guys at the local gun shows use , Ospho ( spelling ) cold blue . It causes more damage to fine firearms than a Stanley screw driver .
Of course I'm just kidding .
Any firearm related endeavor has become increasingly expensive with many dollars expended and very few returns . Too many government rules and regulations now . Just my opinion .
 
Call Du-lite. very helpful staff. they have instructions available and different size "kits". IMO of over ten years of occasional Bluing experience, Du-lite is a superior product, used by the big guys too.
Check out their website.
 

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