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Incorrect pillar height or messed up stock?

I made the rear trigger guard pillar based on measurement from receiver to the wood inletting, exactly to the point the trigger guard tightened. Made the front pillar the same height +/-.002. The ADL action screws are correct length with the trigger guard in place 3.5 turns on rear threads, more on front. Neither screw went "though" the action. To me this just reinforced the pillars are correct length.
Check out this picture of the test fit......

What is your take? I was expecting the front of the guard to be flush like it was with the wood screw.. Are ADL trigger guards mounted not parallel with the receiver? I would not think finishing the end of a pillar at an angle helps keeping stress down?


I have not "relieved any wood from the receiver area of the stock. Removed old soft JB type skim bedding around front action screw and recoil lug. I opened barrel channel up to help fit the new barrel, still maybe too narrow.
The rear part of the tang you do not remove to keep the action height correct has not been touched by me. It does look very compressed from over tightening the rear screw. Wood indented visually. Half way between where the receiver fits and wear the trigger guard would be flush.. at that point the action looks like it fits at correct height. You can read "Remington" on the action, the ejection port metal and wood are near flush.
There are more pictures on the photobucket links you can scroll through if it helps.
Also just making sure I am posting this in the correct area. I have not got very much feedback, which maybe I should take as a clue "if you don't have anything nice to say don't say anything at all"
I definitely am not qualified to be in the advanced gunsmithing area. Did you see the picture of MY milling machine???
 
Your pillars should be flush with the wood or just a few thousandths above the wood then bedded underneath the trigger guard. So that will have to be changed.

The stock looks fine except for one thing....Are you sure that's not a Savage rifle stock ??? That trigger guard inletting is exactly the same as a Savage blind mag stock except that the rear screw has a pillar. But I don't see a spot for the Savage bolt release so I may be wrong.

I wonder if a Savage trigger would match up for you? If it would, that would be your ticket to redemption ;)
 
If I have the pillars at different heights what compensating for the angle? It would be very small but two straight surfaces separated by different length pillars each with a perpendicular end, how do I get the bedding compound to go where it needs. Install trigger guard and tighten during curing process. I have not seen it done that way.
http://www.accurateshooter.com/technical-articles/stress-free-pillar-bedding/
This is what I am trying to do. This is only my 5th bedding job, first making my own pillars.
The Stock ...It could be a savage? I was told it is a 40X and it looks like one to me but I do not see very many to know.
Yes I drilled 2 holes out larger for the pillars, the 3rd or center hole I had to drill through my self, was only a 1/2" deep wood screw hole.
 
TroyMN said:
If I have the pillars at different heights what compensating for the angle? It would be very small but two straight surfaces separated by different length pillars each with a perpendicular end, how do I get the bedding compound to go where it needs. Install trigger guard and tighten during curing process. I have not seen it done that way.
http://www.accurateshooter.com/technical-articles/stress-free-pillar-bedding/
This is what I am trying to do. This is only my 5th bedding job, first making my own pillars.
The Stock ...It could be a savage? I was told it is a 40X and it looks like one to me but I do not see very many to know.

Bingo!!! Little different trigger guard inletting on the 40X.
 
If the action is sitting in its inletting properly, and the trigger guard fits the inletting with the action and pillars removed, your screws and pillars need shortening.
 
BoydAllen said:
If the action is sitting in its inletting properly, and the trigger guard fits the inletting with the action and pillars removed, your screws and pillars need shortening.
Yes.. you are right, I just need to trim the center pillar and screw. Problem solved.
I bought this Stainless 700 action/bolt for about $600, it came including-- this stock, a med/heavy 6mm AI barrel and dies, case, Jewel trigger and 8-32x scope (clear but cheap) Still VERY happy with my buy.
Just want this stock to be a big FAT heavy, once bedded it will be great. My first kinda custom gun. Have 3 barrels and two bolt faces for it.
Thanks
Troy
 
I don't think that it will be an issue, but put a trigger on the action and check for clearance and how it works with the depth of the stock.
 
Get rid of the center pillar completely would be my suggestion. Remington knew what they were doing with that wood screw.

I actually put the rear action screw below the surface of the trigger guard [ looking at the stock upside down ]. Then I use the wood screw [ or a machine screw and an alum ferrule ] at the front hole in the trigger guard to attach the trigger guard to the stock. KISS !!!

You should also verify that the top surface of the trigger guard is flat.
 
Rayjay beat me to it.
I would also strongly suggest you eliminate the front trigger bow pillar. Your action only needs 2 pillars (front and rear actions scews). The center screw should just go along for the ride. What I normally do is make a small threaded ferrul and glue or even press it into the stock from the inside just to give the center screw something to thread into other than the action.

Regarding on how parallel the trigger bow is to the action, they are never parallel, unless you have a stock that is made parallel. Factory stocks are generally tapered from the pistol grip to the forend tip, making the trigger guard sit on a different plane than the barreled action. This isn't a big deal though, you can just either set the rear pillar in the stock long and then trim it in the mill to the corosponding angle that the stock is inletted to or just leave one edge short and so that it makes contact with the trigger guard and let the bedding filll the rest.

JS
 
rayjay said:
Also, in the future do a trial assy after you have the pillars finished.
Yes I still am test fitting few more steps before I mix up the Devcon.
I trimmed the center pillar, also tested and realize the tang should sit higher than it does. Years of over tightening ? The wood is visually compressed. I added .045 shim and it looks better and will still work with the current pillars.
Now what to shim it with, current test is multiple layers of tape.
 

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