Inch lb of torque
- Thread starter Crumster
- Start date
Great info. I haven't been able to get to the range yet, but when I do this tells ne I can go up plenty on the FAT boy.
I have had wooden stocks that seem to be sensitive to receiver screw torque and I would mess with the tension to get better groups. That was long ago and haven't had a wood stock in many years. The synthetic stocks I have had I really could not tell a difference and over the years just settle for something in the 40-50 range. Recently picked up a KRG Bravo stock and KRG suggest 65 which I did. Some show concern about over pressure on the floor plate. I haven't seen that issue but I think it may be valid.
I had the original walnut stock on this rifle. My Jewell trigger does not have a bolt release on it. I have tried to buy a Jewell with a bolt release, but no luck on that. Anyway, this means that I have to remove the barreled action from the stock, so I can get the bolt out to properly clean the bore and throat. All's well and good except that barrel/stock combination was quite finicky, about this operation. Sometimes it would not shoot well after being reassembled, and I would find myself on the firing line, taking the damn rifle apart and reassembling try to find the sweet spot. With wood stocks, my theory was to tread lightly with guard screws. All of my benchrest rifles preferred medium/light torque as well.
So I bought this H-S. Their stocks have rescued me before with hunting rifles that did not want to shoot.
So I bought this H-S. Their stocks have rescued me before with hunting rifles that did not want to shoot.
Not familiar with that stock. But I would think you should be able to insert a small scredriver shaft in the opening behind the left lug with bolt all the way rearward and push the release down for bolt release. Thats what I do when bolt release is not on the trigger assm.
Frank
Frank
If the stock has pilars, anything from 45 to 60 will be good to go.
I tried many different settings on many different rifles/stocks.... I can only speak for either piller bedded or glass bedded or both, and the chassis type beds.
Glass only I'd say 50 in-lbs.... Glass and pillars 50 to 60 is good. A V-type chassis bed, anything from 40 to 60 makes no difference.
I tried many different settings on many different rifles/stocks.... I can only speak for either piller bedded or glass bedded or both, and the chassis type beds.
Glass only I'd say 50 in-lbs.... Glass and pillars 50 to 60 is good. A V-type chassis bed, anything from 40 to 60 makes no difference.
Old Navy
Gold $$ Contributor
My memory is a little foggy on this but I think we did that on our center grip XP-100s years ago.
KMart
Gold $$ Contributor
And the 600/660 rifles as well.
There is no gap there on this stock. BI never thought about what you are saying. I'll check into that, as it may be wortg some Dremel work. Thanks
KMart
Gold $$ Contributor
There should be no reason to cut out part of the stock. What you are looking for is between the bolt and the outside of the action.
Pull the bolt back until it stops. Look between the left side of the bolt and the inside of the receiver. You should see a small bar about 1/16" wide. That will be the bolt stop. Insert a very small shanked screw driver and place on top of that bar at the back end and push down. Then it takes a small amount of wiggling the bolt to get it to come out.
Let me know how that works
Insert a screw driver or similar tool in the left lug raceway/channel between the bolt body and receiver (with the bolt back) until the tip hits the bolt lug. Then press the tip of the screw driver downward to push against the bolt stop and pull the bolt back past the stop.
If you pull the bolt back and use a flash light to look down the left side of the bolt body you can see the stop. It's one of those, duh, things once you do it.
Yes, it's a rimfire, no gap.
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