Imperial neck sizing dry lube
- Thread starter bobcat30
- Start date
Bobcat, I have been using the stuff for years. It's basically just powdered graphite. If you're sizing and using an expander ball, it's a very good idea to dry lube the inside of the necks, it can substantially help reduce case neck run out. That being said, motor mica will also work equally as well and is less messy. Neither the Mica or the graphite will affect your powder and if a little residual is left in the neck, it's O.K.
Agree with Chuckhunter. The powder is just graphite, and motor mica works as well. The really nice item is the Imperial application media. This is a little plastic container full of ceramic beads that help to apply the lube powder to the case neck. Very convenient and much better than trying use a bore brush to apply the powdered graphite or motor mica.
When you are using new cases or when your cases are totally cleaned using an ultrasonic cleaner or a tumbler with stainless steel media, there is a noticeable difference when you size your cases, compared to using no lube.
Randy
When you are using new cases or when your cases are totally cleaned using an ultrasonic cleaner or a tumbler with stainless steel media, there is a noticeable difference when you size your cases, compared to using no lube.
Randy
OK, here's a question that's bugging me.
If graphite is used inside the neck, and as some will tell, any remaining will have no effect on the powder (true enough, considering many powders have graphite as a componant ), What of remaining graphite inside the neck and neck tension ? ???
Won't the lubricative properties of the graphite effect tension and subsequent release of the bullet ?
Or is the remaining graphite just to be another variable to be included in the bullet/neck tension consideration ?
I guess I'm old school, and brush my lube inside the neck, then wash my brass after sizing to remove said lube. I'm always open to any technique that may help improve, but this one puzzles me,,
If graphite is used inside the neck, and as some will tell, any remaining will have no effect on the powder (true enough, considering many powders have graphite as a componant ), What of remaining graphite inside the neck and neck tension ? ???
Won't the lubricative properties of the graphite effect tension and subsequent release of the bullet ?
Or is the remaining graphite just to be another variable to be included in the bullet/neck tension consideration ?
I guess I'm old school, and brush my lube inside the neck, then wash my brass after sizing to remove said lube. I'm always open to any technique that may help improve, but this one puzzles me,,
Shynloco
You can lead a horse to water, but ........
Bobcat,
Personally, I would NOT just dip my casings into graphite. You'd get way too much of the stuff onto the inside of the casing and play heck to get it all out. What I use and have used for years, is I pour a half a bottle of the Imperial Dry Neck lube into a small glass jar (2 1/4" round and 1 1/2 deep) that is filled with small steel bee bees. Gun shops often sell both the Imperial Dry Lube and the glass jar with Bee Bees together. Once you shake the jar a few times, the mixture is ready to go and you just dip the casings neck first into the Bee Bee ixture about four or five times as your first step and then resize as you please. My last step after trimming, deburring and whatever else you do to the case, is to use a neck brush to brush out whatever residue may be left. I have used that method since I first started reloading, loading thousands of rounds and have never had an issue with necks or the casings. But again, I'd never try just dipping my casings into the dry lube itself. One thing I do also is to remove the expander ball in my dies after using them. I then wipe them off and thats eliminates any build up of graphite inside the die and on the expander ball. Works for me!
Personally, I would NOT just dip my casings into graphite. You'd get way too much of the stuff onto the inside of the casing and play heck to get it all out. What I use and have used for years, is I pour a half a bottle of the Imperial Dry Neck lube into a small glass jar (2 1/4" round and 1 1/2 deep) that is filled with small steel bee bees. Gun shops often sell both the Imperial Dry Lube and the glass jar with Bee Bees together. Once you shake the jar a few times, the mixture is ready to go and you just dip the casings neck first into the Bee Bee ixture about four or five times as your first step and then resize as you please. My last step after trimming, deburring and whatever else you do to the case, is to use a neck brush to brush out whatever residue may be left. I have used that method since I first started reloading, loading thousands of rounds and have never had an issue with necks or the casings. But again, I'd never try just dipping my casings into the dry lube itself. One thing I do also is to remove the expander ball in my dies after using them. I then wipe them off and thats eliminates any build up of graphite inside the die and on the expander ball. Works for me!
Shynloco
You can lead a horse to water, but ........
Probably not alot to be honest. My method is something I learned from an old time reloader who does it for competition shooting and just plain old profit from a bunch of folks he reloads for. I would have to say though, that most of all, you have to use whatever method WORKS BEST FOR YOU. I've found this method effective and the easiest to clean inside of necks afterwards and the least messy. Whenever I have to go buy more Imperial Dry Lube plus the Bee Bees, they cost me about $10. Thats what I pay for happiness and something that has worked for me for thousands of rounds. And BTW, I tumble my casings in media as the first process when reloading.
I've been using the Imperial dry on any dies still using the the expander ball for years. Love the stuff.
Forster makes a "cheap" dry lube station. Has a well and an assortment of nylon brushes to use.
Dip the case into the well and run it over the brush once. Done.
I never have to remove lube from the neck ID.
I even use it when FL sizing. Imperial dry on the inside. Imperial wax on the outside. Usually do 50 dry and wax as I go.
No doubt it takes longer this way but I like the end results.
YES. leftover dry lube in the neck reduces tension. Well, tension is the same but seating pressure and release is lessened.
Has'nt seemed to be a problem for me. Work up loads for brass processed in such a fashion and all ends well.
Only mica I ever tried was the stuff that came with the Forster kit.
Dump immediately into the trash and never look back.
Forster makes a "cheap" dry lube station. Has a well and an assortment of nylon brushes to use.
Dip the case into the well and run it over the brush once. Done.
I never have to remove lube from the neck ID.
I even use it when FL sizing. Imperial dry on the inside. Imperial wax on the outside. Usually do 50 dry and wax as I go.
No doubt it takes longer this way but I like the end results.
YES. leftover dry lube in the neck reduces tension. Well, tension is the same but seating pressure and release is lessened.
Has'nt seemed to be a problem for me. Work up loads for brass processed in such a fashion and all ends well.
Only mica I ever tried was the stuff that came with the Forster kit.
Dump immediately into the trash and never look back.
bozo699
Gold $$ Contributor
When I changed over to dry neck lube I applied it like Ron is and it worked fine except I didn't like getting it on my fingers ( turns everything black) Then I bought the ceramic media and dry neck lube mixed ( I love it ) I think it does a good job as long as you shake it up every once in a while.
Wayne.
Wayne.
could a guy use say 7 or 8 shot lead shot in container mixed with the redding dry neck lube? If so whats the mix ratio? Or is it just easier to buy the redding ceramic media? Is the ceramic media have the dry neck lube mixed in? Can a guy recharge the ceramic after you have used up the media?
bozo699
Gold $$ Contributor
Bobcat30,bobcat30 said:
You probably could use the 7 or 8 shot but the ceramic media was cheap and already mixed and yes you can buy more to recharge the media with. When you buy it new it comes precharged in a nice little jar with a screw on lid, all you have to do is shake it up and start loading. It doesn't get much easier and cheaper than that
Wayne.
I use the Imperial dry lube in the ceramic media, it works real good.
I also have a big jar of the Midway motor mica, I try it now and then, but think its worthless. After annealing cases I think the mica accually made it harder to re-size. I don't know if I just have a bad jar, but it sure doesn't work for me.
I also have a big jar of the Midway motor mica, I try it now and then, but think its worthless. After annealing cases I think the mica accually made it harder to re-size. I don't know if I just have a bad jar, but it sure doesn't work for me.
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