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I want to shoot the 88 ELD from a 223.

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I just bought a savage single shot target action (large shank.) Kind of want to try shooting 223 with the 88gr Hornday ELD or something similar to that. Probably want a 28 or 30" barrel. I have an HS Precision PSV 106 on order so I need something similar to a savage heavy magnum contour barrel. Anything wrong with getting a regular Savage 223 barrel and using a PTG Uni Throater to increase the freebore?

Note: Everyone keeps thinking when I say savage barrel that I meant a factory savage barrel. I meant I want a higher quality barrel (criterion, shillen, etc) that fits a savage large shank action. Not a savage factory barrel.
 
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My experience....I have a 223AI that shoots 80g VLD-T's. I thought about loading 88 ELDM's in it. I found that to touch the lands, let alone provide for any jump, the bullet would be seated so deep in the case it would not allow an adequate powder charge. So definitely increase the freebore.
 
Until you get the freebore right, you might be better off shooting 85.5 Bergers, cost more though.
Wife and I have been sending them right at 3000fps in 22 Nosler/22 Nosgar from long barrel AR's.
She'll get to try out her 22 Nosgar Savage after the first.
28-inch-uppers.jpg

Finished-Bolt-Gun-.jpg
 
I shoot the 88 ELD-M in my 223. Bought a savage 1 and 7 twist from Northland Shooters Supply. They recommended there VLD chamber for heavy bullets. Worked out well and allows the bullets to be seated out enough to not interfere with powder capacity.
 
"Anything wrong with getting a regular Savage 223 barrel and using a PTG Uni Throater to increase the freebore?"

With all the prefit choices - why would you go for a Savage barrel?
 
the vast majority of factory barrels are 1-9 twist, I believe they have a 1-7 on their target models but I have never seen one in stock anywhere or even a takeoff barrel.
just get a quality prefit from one of the many suppliers out there.
 
I did exactly what you are considering with the Savage FTR 1:7 rig. GO SLOW and Measure often with the unithroater.

I blew past my desired point by taking a couple of extra twists without measuring BUT…. Sometimes when you fall in the crap you can come out smelling like a rose.

Loaded up with N135 and ran a jump test. Shooting about 0.3 moa with no effort and a sling shooter learning how to use FTR bipods and bags.
 

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My urbanRifleman 223 1-8 is loving the 85.5 bergers. His barrels sure do shoot. Only thing I can see you not getting is those extra inches of length.... I think he only offers 26"... could be wrong as that may be the custom work option on his order page on his site, all mine are 26"
 
My urbanRifleman 223 1-8 is loving the 85.5 bergers. His barrels sure do shoot. Only thing I can see you not getting is those extra inches of length.... I think he only offers 26"... could be wrong as that may be the custom work option on his order page on his site, all mine are 26"

At this current time my longest is 26 inches.

You don't need a 30. Despite rumors to the contrary.
 
When I run the simulation in GRT the extra 4" seems to get me an extra 80 FPS. Does that make a huge difference in palma shooting? I wanted to shoot F/TR with this rifle.
I've seen it stated that 223 doesn't gain anything after 28".

Palma shooters want the longer sight radius, anything from 30"-32"
 
Palma shooters want the longer sight radius, anything from 30"-32"

The clicks on the rear sight are predicated on a certain distance between the front and rear sights. Changing distance makes the clicks worth more (shorter sight radius) or less (longer sight radius).

You could go with a 26" barrel and add a bloop tube to extend the sight radius to get the finer clicks.
 
For the 88 ELDMs, you are going to want a 1:7-twist barrel, and I would suggest going with a 28" to 30" finish length. You could possibly "get away" with using a shorter barrel, which might also require that other things be done which are really not so great for F-TR...OR you could get the proper length barrel to start with for the intended purpose and not have to run double base powders or high pressures that might kill your brass in a couple/three firings. If you decide to go with a 30" barrel length, I would also strongly suggest getting a .219"/.224" barrel to help mitigate/prevent bullet jacket failures, the probability of which slightly with the longer barrel. These can be obtained from Bartlein or Brux.

The potential problem with using a Savage barrel for this project can be seen merely by taking a look inside one with a borescope. It is not uncommon to see tooling marks in a factory Savage barrel that look like someone drove a tank track up and down the top of the lands. Although Savage rifles often shoot really, really well straight out of the box, their factory barrels are simply not where you want to be for the intended purpose. When pushing a bullet such as the 88 ELDM that is known to be at risk for jacket failures at the kind of velocities often observed with F-TR loads (i.e. typically a bit "warm"), a rough bore in a brand new barrel is really not where you want to be. If your going to go to the trouble of setting up a new F-TR rifle, I'd suggest starting with a quality aftermarket barrel from a reputable barrel manufacturer.

Finally, you might want to talk with your gunsmith about the kind of chamber you're want to get the most out of the 88s. The 88 ELDM is a LONG bullet for a .223 Rem cartridge. Ideally, you want somewhere in the neighborhood of 0.250" freebore to seat the 88s optimally. I just start breaking in a brand new barrel a couple days ago on a rifle specifically set up to shoot 88s and 90 VLDs. My intention is to use this rifle in local F-TR club matches at 600 yd, and I'm not planning to step on the gas with the loads for this rifle, so I went with standard 0.218"/0.224" bore/groove configuration Bartlein 5R barrels at 28" finish length. The chambers were cut with 0.220" freebore, which is just about perfect for the 90 VLD but is a bit on the short side for the 88 ELDM. When seated at "touching" the lands in a chamber with 0.220" freebore, the 88 ELDM boattail/bearing surface junction is very close to the case neck/shoulder junction, which a bit further down into the neck than is optimal, and higher operating pressure will be the likely result. I can hopefully get away with that due to not wanting to push these loads very hard in matches at 600 yd, but it's still sub-optimal. Setting a rifle up to load/shoot the 88s optimally may well mean that you don;t have a lot of options for loading other bullets, as the 88s are so long. Using a 0.220" freebore will mean loading 90 VLDs optimally and 88s a tad short, but will work "acceptably" for both. Using a 0.250" freebore will likely mean the only bullets you can load without jumping a country mile would be the 88 ELDMs, Sierra's 95 SMKs, and possibly the 90 gr A-tips. It's something to think about about and discuss with your gunsmith so you end up with a rifle setup that will do what you want. Loading crazy long and heavy bullets in the .223 Rem sometimes requires that some major compromises be made; i.e. having a "purpose-built" rifle that may not be so useful for anything else.

Based on my initial results with Barrel #1, I should have no difficulty hitting velocities in the 2725 to 2750 fps range with 88s and 90s, brass life should be quite good, and hopefully bullet jacket failures a non-issue with the slower velocity and slightly shorter barrel length (I typically would run these bullets at 2800+ fps from 30" barrels in F-TR matches). Wind deflection with these loads will be slightly greater than when running the same bullets at 2825 to 2850 fps from a 30" barrel, but the difference is not HUGE. Running 90 VLDs at 2750 fps instead of about 2830 fps means about one inch greater wind deflection is predicted at 600 yd. So not zero, but not an overwhelming difference, either. Again, if you have the conversation with whomever is going to do the gunsmithing work, you should be able to come up with a plan that will get you where you want to be with the 88s to give F-TR a try, but that won't leave you with a rifle so specialized that it isn't much use for anything else.

Finally, it's also worth re-iterating that the Unithroater tool only removes the tiniest little bit of metal from the bore, as mentioned by others above. It is SUPER EASY to make a mistake and go well beyond the intended freebore length when using this tool. Once removed, the metal can't be put back so be careful, take very small cuts, and measure often when using the Uni-throater tool.
 
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When I run the simulation in GRT the extra 4" seems to get me an extra 80 FPS. Does that make a huge difference in palma shooting? I wanted to shoot F/TR with this rifle.

The top junior in the country shoots at 2750 fps with the Berger 90s and 88 eldm. His
Dad is one of my customers.

My 223 230 FB with 7 twist EASILY hit that 2730 node with 22.5 grains of AR COMP.

No. You don't NEED a 30 inch barrel. Quite the contrary. It may cause more problems than it fixes.
 
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You can get pretty impressive velocities with CFE-223 and 88 ELD-M. I’ve got a 26” barrel and breaking 2800 fps is easy. Of course accuracy trumps velocity any day. Proceed with caution of course.
 
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